Food Lover's Odyssey

Nero di Seppie -- A Traditional Venetian Dish

It was a plate of slimy black liquid, which reminded me a bit of wet tar.  Nero di Seppie, a Venetian specialty is cuttlefish served in a sauce of its own black ink.  You can order just the cuttlefish and sauce,  with pasta, or with risotto.  Not the most visually appealing dish, leading to my procrastinating statement, "One day I'll taste these black dishes, just not today." 

"Today" had finally come.  And although the dish was plated beautifully at Al Pesador, it still didn't make my mouth water.  Without looking at the sauce, I plunged my fork in and tasted.  It was meno male (not bad).  The sauce had a tang and saltiness from the sea.  The cuttlefish was tender (it tastes just like calamari), and the rice helped blend all flavors together.   This dish was still overpowered by the sauce.  I prefer the spaghetti nero di seppie, which has less liquid and more pasta, so the pasta absorbs the sea flavors from the fish's ink, but the sauce doesn't overpower.  I've tried the pasta at both Bottega ai promessi sposi and La Taverna San Trovaso, which are both better than meno male. 

 

 

The seppie looks even more unappetizing before they are prepared.  For the dish, you purchase them uncleaned with the ink sack still intact.  You break the ink sack and pour it into the sauce to turn the sauce the deep black color. 

One thing is certain.  This is not a dish to order on a date.  All of the nero di seppie dishes turn your entire mouth black and stain your teeth a bit.  I knew this ahead of time and brought my toothbrush.  If you are determined to order this on a date, you can also do the same, just don't smile the entire dinner.

I'm glad I tried the nero di seppie dishes and would order them again.  I would choose a place with a great view, as I just can't look at the plate while I'm eating it.  Fortunately, Al Pesador has one of the best views in Venice.  It's behind the Rialto Market and looks onto the Grand Canale.  I come here often day, sunset and night for Lo Spritz and bruschette, and to watch the gondole and vaporetti float by.

When to Ride a Gondola in Venice

When I say Venice, what is the  first image that comes to your mind?  If your like most people I ask, your response is most likely, "the gondola."   I'm fascinated with them and the gondoliers that drive them.  I have snapped hundreds of  photos of gondolas and even more of the gondoliers navigating their way through the canals of Venice.  But, I've been to Venice at least seven times and have yet to take a ride in one!

Before my first visit to Venice,  I heard a story that gondola rides should be shared only with your anima gemella (soul mate).  During the ride, you kiss each other as you pass under each bridge.   I resolved never to take a gondola ride until I was here with my anima gemella.  I am overly romantic as it is.  Being in Venice renders me absolutely hopeless.  

 

Venice has cast a spell on me.  I blame it on the water.  It plays tricks on you.  The reflections from the sky and scenery above change in the water and emit something that distorts your vision and your mind.  I have forgotten that I'm on a food lover's odyssey, and instead find myself on a totally different odyssey, searching for "Mr Right." If he happens to be a talk dark handsome Italian, even better.  I've become sappier than Marisa Tomei in "Only You."   I have a crush on every man I know in this city, even my gay roommate. 

I stand on bridges and gaze at the gondolas below, imagining myself and my grande amore  riding in one of these ornately gilded vessels,  our arms intertwined, passionately kissing under each of  Venice's 416 bridge,  and  a  song playing in the background.  Like the lagoon in the early morning, my mind is in a fog.  

The other day in class, I told them about my encounter with a gondolier a few years ago.  I was madly snapping pictures of this gondolier, and he approached me and offered me a "discount" on a gondola ride.  I quickly refused.  He asked me why, and I explained that I was waiting to take my first gondola ride with my "anima gemella."  (I even used the Italian word.)  I'm sure he found my idealism and romanticism amusing, but he pressed on and offered to let me ride for free.  I still said, "non grazie."  

I don't know if he wanted to prove to himself or to me that even a true romantic will sell her dreams away for a good price (or to a handsome gondolier).  He continued on, offering even to kiss me under each bridge.  Now he was ok looking; maybe if he looked more like the gondolier above, I might have wavered in my resolve.  I declined again.

Then, he offered to let me drive the gondola!!  I actually paused for a minute, but eventually said no.  I walked about 100 yards from the spot of our negotiation, and rethought my decision, with a tiny bit of regret.   After turning down an offer like that (to be able to drive the gondola), I have to wait until I find "him" to take this magical gondola ride, right?  

 

Alas, I'm no longer sure.  After I told this story to the class, the men in the class thought I had made the wrong decision and should have taken the ride.  The women in the class, thought I had made the right decision and should continue to wait.  What do you think?

Good Pizza in Venice

Good pizza and Italy always go hand in hand, right?  No.  Especially in Venice, where tourist traps dominate the pizza scene.  I walk past numerous pizza stands every day, and these places are selling bad imitations of Italian pizza; I've seen better pizzas in the frozen food section in US grocery stores.

Birraria La Corte, however, makes some very good pizza.  The crust is thin and crunchy, especially around the edges.  They serve their pizza with a light layer of melted mozzarella and don't overload the toppings.  A good pizza has a balance of crust, sauce, cheese, and toppings; one of these shouldn't dominate the others.  Each bite is a medley of flavors playing in your mouth.  My favorite at Birraria is the capricciosa, which comes with mushrooms, artichokes, and prosciutto.

I was with my mom in Venice several years ago, and we found this place while wandering Venice and looking for an outdoor cafe.  We liked it so much, we went back that trip and on later trips to Venice.  She would order one of their salads, and I would order a pizza.  Then, we'd share.  

I always forgot the name, but remembered that is was in Campo San Polo.  I found it again when I first arrived and have returned several times for a filling lunch or at night with friends.  The restaurant has 150 seats outside and 150 seats inside and is open until 11:30pm, which works well for students who get out of class late and/or want to dine late.  Tables are gathered at the end of the Campo San Polo under umbrellas and can be separated into seating for two or combined for larger groups.

I usually spend between 14 and 18 euros for a pizza and a drink.  Besides salads and pizza, they also serve pasta and second courses, but I always come for the pizza.  

Birraria La Corte is located at Campo San Polo 2168 in Venice, and you can check them out online at www.birrarialacorte.it.

Lo Spritz -- Happy Hour in Venice

 

Spritz is a neon orange or sometimes neon red aperitivo.  During the evening, these brightly colored drinks fill outdoor tables and line bars throughout Venice.  They're available at the Piazza San Marco and on terraces of swanky Venetian hotels.  You can also do as Venetians do and find the smallest, oldest bar in the neighborhood,  squeeze through the crowd and flailing hands of Italian conversations, order one, and go outside to drink while sitting on the pavement.

 

Spritz contains prosecco or white wine, a bitter liqueur of either Campari or Aperol (Aperol is a little sweeter than Compari), and sparkling mineral water.  It also has an olive and slice of orange, and you usually get a little bowl of potato chips on the side.   I've read and heard arguments about where to find the best Spritz, but I believe you find the best Spritz at a bar with an awesome view and with a group of friends.

 

 

 

 

My favorite places to have a Spritz in Venice always include a beautiful view.

 

 

Along the Fondamenta Zattere, I usually finish a morning of walking with a Spritz or two.  The Fondamenta looks onto the Island of Giudecca. On Saturdays you can watch the cruise ships on their way out to sea, and waive at the passengers.

 

The "Erbaria di Rialto" which is behind the Rialto Market and looks onto the Grand Canal.  There are four restaurants that also serve appetizers before and after meal times.  I prefer to go after lunchtime and get bruschetta and a Spritz.  Also at night, you can get a Spritz from one of the bars that are opened late and sit on the canal bank.

 

Campo Santa Margherita is near my school.  It's also near the Italian University.  The weekend starts on Thursday evening here, and there are several bars packed with overflow running onto the campo. 

 

 

Along the banks of Guidecca, you can sip a Spritz and watch the city of Venice magically float on the lagoon.  From this view you may never want to leave.   

 

One suggestion, though, if you don't plan on eating your potato chips, don't leave them on the table.  You might get attacked by the birds like I did.

 

 

 

 

Here is an adapted recipe for Spritz that I received from the Istituto di Venezia, where I'm taking Italian classes.

 

Lo Spritz

Serves 4

1 cup Prosecco or dry white wine

1 cup Campari or Aperol

1 cup Sparkling Mineral Water

 
Mix together and pour in a short glass with the usual one ice cube.  Add an olive and orange slice to each glass.  Cin Cin and Enjoy!

 

 

La Bottega ai Promessi ai Sposi

Tucked behind the Strada Nuova (a popular street for tourists and shopping in the Cannaregio quarter), is La Bottega ai promessi ai sposi.  It's one of my restaurant "finds" in a city with few of them (believe me I've also had a few "worst ever in Italy" experiences  in this very touristy city).

However, at La Bottega you'll find many more Venetians than tourists.  It's hidden in a "calle," alley-like street, and missed by the throng of tourists.  I found out about it from a fellow student and have been back  several times since.  I even missed the restaurant the first time.  I found it the second time only because I noticed the handwritten name of the restaurant on a piece of paper taped to the window.  There's actually a small lantern above the restaurant's entrance guiding you inside.

The restaurant fits about 50 people maximum and is filled most nights with locals.  The tables are wooden squares or rectangles and the "tablecloths" are burgandy- colored swathches, also of paper.   Christiano seats you and hands you the handwritten menu and wine lists (one for red and one for white).  The menu is filled with many typical Venetian dishes:  Spaghetti colle vongole (spaghetti with clams), bigoli in salsa (spaghetti-like pasta with anchoives), fritto misto di pesce (fried fish), fegato Veneziana (Liver Venetian Style),  Pasta with Nero di Seppia (Pasta blackened from the ink of cuttlefish). 

They also have a selection of two or three house-made pastas (pasta fatta in casa). Twice I tried the house-made strozzapreti (pasta named after the priest's collar but literally translated means strangle the priests), once with a duck ragu and once with a lamb ragu, and both times the dishes were delicious. 

 

There are usually a selection of two or three unspectacular desserts.  The chocolate torte is sufficient if you absolutely want a dessert, but I  like to save my sweet tooth for some gelato.  The antipasti (especially the antipasti alla banchi), which gives a selection of appetizers from the bar, all the pasta selections and many of the second courses are simple, flavorful and typical cuisine of Venice.  I'm sure I'll be back again before I leave Venice.

La Bottega ai promessi sposi is located in the Cannaregio quarter of Venice at Calle dell'Oca 4367; telephone:  +39 041 241 27 47