Nero di Seppie -- A Traditional Venetian Dish

It was a plate of slimy black liquid, which reminded me a bit of wet tar.  Nero di Seppie, a Venetian specialty is cuttlefish served in a sauce of its own black ink.  You can order just the cuttlefish and sauce,  with pasta, or with risotto.  Not the most visually appealing dish, leading to my procrastinating statement, "One day I'll taste these black dishes, just not today." 

"Today" had finally come.  And although the dish was plated beautifully at Al Pesador, it still didn't make my mouth water.  Without looking at the sauce, I plunged my fork in and tasted.  It was meno male (not bad).  The sauce had a tang and saltiness from the sea.  The cuttlefish was tender (it tastes just like calamari), and the rice helped blend all flavors together.   This dish was still overpowered by the sauce.  I prefer the spaghetti nero di seppie, which has less liquid and more pasta, so the pasta absorbs the sea flavors from the fish's ink, but the sauce doesn't overpower.  I've tried the pasta at both Bottega ai promessi sposi and La Taverna San Trovaso, which are both better than meno male. 

 

 

The seppie looks even more unappetizing before they are prepared.  For the dish, you purchase them uncleaned with the ink sack still intact.  You break the ink sack and pour it into the sauce to turn the sauce the deep black color. 

One thing is certain.  This is not a dish to order on a date.  All of the nero di seppie dishes turn your entire mouth black and stain your teeth a bit.  I knew this ahead of time and brought my toothbrush.  If you are determined to order this on a date, you can also do the same, just don't smile the entire dinner.

I'm glad I tried the nero di seppie dishes and would order them again.  I would choose a place with a great view, as I just can't look at the plate while I'm eating it.  Fortunately, Al Pesador has one of the best views in Venice.  It's behind the Rialto Market and looks onto the Grand Canale.  I come here often day, sunset and night for Lo Spritz and bruschette, and to watch the gondole and vaporetti float by.

Comments

[Jozee Pizzurro]

You are one brave girl. I don't think I could ever order the Nero di Seppie. I might have a taste from someone else's dish and would close my eyes before putting fork to mouth. Well, at least, you had a nice view of the Grand Canale.

[Paula]

This is a very interesting dish..... I guess the visual appeal is all in how you look at it. North American's are just not used to eating this kind of food. My 12 year old son was the adventurous one who actually ordered this dish.... it is actually quite tasty, but not nessarily something I would like to eat a whole plate of!