The BEST, and I mean no other compares, hot chocolate I've ever had was during Carnevale in Venice. The thick Italian hot chocolate is so dense that it verges on being a pudding, and Carnival in Venice is where I first tasted this type of hot chocolate.
We arrived for our Carnevale weekend in Venice late at night and took a vaporetto from Piazzale Roma to the Accademia stop; the only 2 people on the boat at that time. It was my first non-summer vist to Venice, and the city seemed a ghost town. As we passed the Erberia (near the Rialto bridge), there were only a few sounds of laughter and proof of human existence. After we passed the Rialto bridge, there was no one, no gondole on the lagoon, and the only sound was the rumbling of the vaporetto motor as it poked along the Grand Canal. There was a light fog that sat just on the water's surface. It seemed that the ghosts of Carnevales' past were rising to the surface to welcome us to, or possibly scare us away from, Venice. The black night, the only lights - those bouncing on the water, the buildings - at the same time, both exotic and decaying, the fog, and the silence created an atmosphere both enchanting and eerie.
The next morning during the day, the atmosphere was one of pure merriment. From early in the morning to late in the night, the streets were filled with elaborately costumed and masked partygoers. Always silent but showing their willingness through gestures, costume-clad partygoers gladly stopped for anyone asking to take a photo. As we wandered through Venice, locals offered us and other visitors mulled wine and fried treats. Saint Mark's Square was celebration central, and a grand stage was set up for the many costume parades and shows that took place day and night. Strings of lights decorated the narrow calle around the square. At night, the lights twinkled overhead and danced below in the waters of the canal to add to the festive mood. It was also normal to see these masked partygoers riding gondole or on the vaporetto. Festivity, fantasy, and frivolity; that is Venice during Carnevale.
Venice in Winter is also COLD. The chill, a cold wet one from the fog, seemed to seep through our many layers of clothes. We found a cafe near Saint Mark's to take a break from the cold and also found Italian hot chocolate. The menu was filled with at least 15 versions of hot chocolate - dark chocolate, milk chocolate, white chocolate, with any kind of liqueur that you wanted, etc. etc. I got the dark and my friend the white. At the time, we were both living in Paris, so we were more than familiar with the hot chocolates of Angelina, LaDuree, Cafe Flore, and the rest, but this was oh so different. Instead of drinking it, it was so thick you could almost eat it with a spoon. Almost that is, it was still creamy and fluid enough to drink, and we drank in the hot and creamy chocolate. During the entire weekend, we made daily stops at the cafe for our hot chocolate break.
After we returned, I did some research to find that this quasi-pudding drink was the typical hot chocolate of Italy. You can find it in any cafe in Italy during the winter. I've since found it even in France and Prague, going by the name of "Italian hot chocolate" on menus. The secret is to use a little bit of cornstarch to thicken it. Using the best quality chocolate is also key.
This hot chocolate and Carnevale in Venice will forever be paired together in my mind. With each sip I think of Venetian masks, elaborate costumes, frittelle (Venetian fritters for Carnival), parades, and the lagoon in winter - misty and magical. Below is my recipe for Italain hot chocolate inspired by my first visit to Carnival and as decadent as that drink was. After the recipe for the hot chocolate, I've added a video of photos of my first Carnevale in Venice. In the time it takes you to drink a cup of hot chocolate you can take a little trip to Venice.
Carnival in Venice is always the two weeks before Ash Wednesday. It changes yearly and based on the calendar used to determine Easter. The cafe where we had our first Italian hot chocolate is in Campo St. Stefano. It has yellow tablecloths and dark wood trim around the entrance, and no name other than Cafe.
Italian Hot Chocolte - Cioccolata Calda
(Makes 4 servings)
1 cup whole milk, separated in 3/4 cup and 1/4 cup
1 cup heavy cream
1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch
4 tablespoons granulated sugar
4 1/2 ounces high quality dark chocolate 70%, finely chopped
About a cup of whipped cream, optional
Combine the 3/4 cup milk, cream and sugar in a saucepan and heat until it starts to bubble around the edges. While the milk mixture is heating, whisk together the 1/4 milk and the cornstarch until it is smooth. Once the milk mixture starts bubbling around the edges, add the milk and cornstarch mixture to it and whisk until it's heated through. Add the the chocolate and whisk together until it's smooth, hot and thick enough to coat a spoon. Pour into mugs and serve with whipped cream if desired. Enjoy!
NOTE: If you'd like a little liqueur flavor add 1 1/2 tablespoons of your favorite liqueur to the hot chocolate right before pouring into your mug. I love Baileys Irish Cream or Kahlua.
Related Posts:
Venetian Frittelle Recipe filled with Nutella ~ For Carnival and World Nutella Day
Favorite Scenes and Costumes from Carnival in Venice 2011
Martedi Grasso - Fat Tuesday in Venice
Fritelle, Hot Chocolate and Costumes - Welcome to Carnival in Venice 2011
Italy in Chocolate at Turin's CioccolaTo Festival
Scenes from CioccolaTo - Chocolate Festival in Turin
Chiacchiere - Fried Sweets for Carnival in Italy
The Italian Teacher, The Friend and a Magical Chocolate Kahlua Budino
Eurochocolate Perugia - Italy's Biggest Chocolate Festival
Nutella Love Cake - Chocolate & Hazelnut Cake with Nutella Ganache for World Nutella Day
Torta Caprese - Flourless Chocolate Cake from Capri
A Lesson on Venetian Mask Making
A Morning at the Rialto Market in Venice
Cicchetti and Ombra - Little Tastes of Venice
Lo Spritz - Happy Hour in Venice
Burano - The Jewel of the Venetian Lagoon
I hope to one day see a Carnevale in Venice. Fantastic images. Now about this Italian Hot Chocolate...it looks deliciously decadent and thick. Almost pudding like...a meal in itself! :)
Posted by: Cristina | December 02, 2010 at 11:41 AM
That is one rich cup of hot chocolate. Could you have it any other way now? I am in love.
Posted by: Claudia | December 02, 2010 at 03:40 PM
You know when the ripples stay intact after pouring the hot chocolate in the cup you have one thick cup of hot chocolate, it looks sinfully delicious! :)
Posted by: Daydreamer Desserts | December 02, 2010 at 04:34 PM
Cristina - Yes, In my humble opinion Carnevale at Venice is something someone should see at least once in a lifetime.....I'm hoping to be fortunate to go back a second time in 2011....we'll see.
Claudia - No, I can't have it any other way now. I made this hot chocolate for my aunts. When I told them I was going to make hot chocolate, one said, "Oh, I have some hot chocolate packets in the cupboard." I just laughed and told her once you've tried this you'll throw those packets away.
Daydreamer Desserts - I chose those pictures especially because the ripples would depict its thickness, but was wondering if anyone would notice. You're right thick AND sinful :-)
Posted by: Kathy | December 02, 2010 at 04:41 PM
I am that Aunt who said, "Oh, I have some hot chocolate packets in the cupboard." Fool that I am. There is no comparison. I first tasted it without any liqueur and later on I added a drop or two of Baileys Irish Creme. Either way, it is a standout. You all should try Kathy's recipe. You will love, love, love it.
Posted by: jozee | December 02, 2010 at 06:54 PM
Really, Jozee - liqueur?? You wild thing!!! :-)
This is a perfect place to post a quote I recently saw on a card: "Whatever the question is, the answer is chocolate." Pour me some!!
Posted by: Paula | December 03, 2010 at 12:17 AM
I first tried this type of hot chocolate in Barcelona. I'd ordered it expecting a regular milky cocoa drink and when it arrived that hot chocolate made my day, became a highlight of my holiday. Thanks for the recipe, it'll be perfect to sip on while I'm stuck inside with this wintery weather!
Posted by: katbrown | December 03, 2010 at 02:04 AM
Fantastic! Beautiful photos, especially the chocolate one. Sinful. I love those Venetian masks.
Posted by: Adora's Box | December 03, 2010 at 03:49 AM
The two semesters I lived in Italy I didn't get a chance to go to Venice;my attention was turned southward toward more ancient ruins. Thank you for the photos of what I missed.
Posted by: The Chocolate Priestess | December 03, 2010 at 05:17 AM
Ha ha..I love Paula's quote - the answer pretty much is always chocolate for me!
Well, your 1st photo is just stunning -really, that is a great shot, perfect lighting and color contrasts...
But back to the important stuff, like chocolate :)
The carnevale atmosphere sounds so festive - think it's really one of those must-do travel events. And I do imagine Venice is very, very cold during this period - I'd be dipping in for one of those hot chocolates myself. Looks divine!
I picked up some Baratti & Milano hot chocolate packets at Castroni in Rome, but don't think they'll be as good as the one you had in Venice. I'm going to try adding the heavy cream...and maybe just a touch of liqueur :) should do the trick! Merci for the great post..
Posted by: Tuula M | December 03, 2010 at 09:12 AM
This post was so beautifully written...I almost felt like I was in Venice with you!! And hot chocolate that you can eat with a spoon? That sounds magical:)
Posted by: Liana @ femme fraiche | December 04, 2010 at 07:29 AM
This is guaranteed to satisfy any chocoholic! I must try your recipe when winter comes around. But I'll have to be content with looking at the mask collection I brought back from Venice and pretend I'm there...
Beautifully written, Kathy :) Brava!
Posted by: Corinne @ Gourmantic | December 05, 2010 at 10:05 PM
Ah yes. In 2005 when me an my wife went to venice for New Years, I remember that Cafe. Just as you said, everyday we stopped to savor the hot chocolate. Can't wait to try your recipe.
Chuck
Posted by: Chuck Kerechanin | February 22, 2011 at 12:45 PM