This week's roundup of recipes are for the carb and sweet lover in all of us. Risotto, handmade pasta, Sicilian bread and desserts - including a few fried treats for Carnival. Eating Italy is also packed with treats. Where to eat and shop in Rome, Pork in Umbria, prosecco in Padua, a restaurant deal in Arezzo, how new olive oil can ruin you for life and much more, including more pizza making information from the Bonci class. I've included links for a cookbook contest for Mamma Agata's Cookbook and information on World Nutella Day 2011. The 5th edition of World Nutella Day is next Saturday. All you need is a spoon and Nutella. If you have another idea for using Nutella, sharing your recipe on Feb 5th would be a great way to participate. Enjoy and Buon Appetito!
My Choice for This Weeks 10 Best Italian Recipes from Around the Web:
Fabrizia Lanza in the U.S. Again - Cooking teacher & daughter of Anna Lanza of the renowned Anna Tasca Lanza Cooking School in Sicily will be making appearances in the Chicago and San Francisco in February - Sicily Guide
Upcoming Food and Wine Festivals in Italy:
Identita Golose - January 30 to February 1 - Milan - Food, Wine and Pastry Festival with chef demonstrations
Fiera del Cioccolato - February 4 to 13 - Florence - In Piazza Santa Croce and in an early celebration of Carnevale, the city celebrates artisanal chocolate
Cioccolosita (Chocolate Festival in Tuscany) - February 4 to 6, 2011 - The town of Monsummano Terme, near Pistoia, hosts a chocolate festival and brings chocolatiers from all over Italy with samples!
Carnevale di Venezia - February 26 to March 8, 2011 - A magical event that I would recommend attending at least once in your life, the entire city of Venice becomes a stage
CioccolaTo 2011 - March 25 - April 3 - Chocolate festival in Turin
Vinitaly 2011 - April 7 to 11, 2011 - International wine festival in Verona
This month I wanted to go to Venice for the Italy in Books reading challenge. Could this have something to do with my upcoming trip to Venice, for Carnevale? Maybe so. The book I chose to take me there was The Glassblower of Murano by Marina Fiorato.
The Glassblower of Venice begins in 1681 with Corradino Manin, the great maestro of Venetian glassblowers, returning to his birth city from abroad. He reenters his city at night dressed in all black, except for his white bauta mask, setting the tone for the chapter and the story. He drops off a book and money at an orphanage, which is obviously intended for one specific girl, and waits, knowing he will be murdered soon. The last question he asks before the murderer sticks a Venetian glass knife into him is, "Will Leonora be safe?" The questions and the mystery begin....Who killed him? Why? Who is Leonora? What is so important about the book he left behind?
The next chapter finds us in present-day England with Nora, (short for Leonora). She's newly divorced and hoping to find a new life in Venice. She moves to Venice, the place of her birth and the home of her deceased father. Leonora plans to become a glassblower like her ancestor, Corradino. She is successful, initally because of her name, and becomes the first woman glassblower in Venice.
The mystery surrounding Corradino surfaces to cause Leonora problems, and ultimately her job. She searches for all the information on Corradino and his death, certain it will clear both her and Corradino's name. The chapters switch between Corradino's life in Venice during the 1600s and Leonora's in present-day Venice, and the mystery behind Corradino and his death unfolds. Also, once in Venice, Leonora finds a love interest (Being in Venice, one MUST have a love interest) which provides more conflicts to the story and to Leonora's life. By the end of the book, the mystery is solved and Leonora's life has changed.
Blown Glass Tree on Murano
Entrance to a Fornace on Murano
I was sad to find that Corradino Manin is an entirely fictional character, although plenty of history on Venice and the art of glassblowing is infused into the story. We also get information on the Venetian Republic and Venice's Council of Ten from the 1600s.
Overall, I thoroughly enjoyed the book. What I liked most was how the lives and talents of these two ancestors were similar and become intertwined, even though they lived centuries apart. Leonora is the main character, but I was more drawn to Corradino. At times, even Leonora was more concerned with him than herself, her own father, or her lover. Set in one of my favorite cities, it's quite an easy read involving mystery, love, and some Venetian history. If you are interested in Venetian glassblowing, in a fictional setting, the book could also interest you.
From the story, the book gives me a better appreciation for the art of glassblowing. Sometimes the art gets lost behind all the bobbles for sale in the touristy souvenir shops throughout Venice. This story reminds us that those glassblowers are also responsible for so much more; mirrors, chandeliers, and windows in Venice and beyond. This next trip I know I will look at the windows along the Grand Canal longer and differently. I'll search out glass chandeliers in churches and buildings, seeing if there really is that one in the Chiesa della Pieta, mentioned in the book. When I go to the Cantina Do Mori, I'll look at the mirrors and think of Venetian glassblowers. Now, even the Hall of Mirrors in Versailles, which has a part in this book along with Louis XIV, will take my mind to Venice.
Have you read The Glassblower of Murano? What did you think of the book? Do you have any other books based in Venice to recommend?
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**The photo of the book cover is from the Amazon Associate program. Other photos in this post are mine, all rights are reserved, and may not be used without my permission.
One month down and two to go until winter's end. Although the afternoons in California have been pleasant, the mornings have been as foggy as my head is when the alarm sounds. The morning drizzle and barren branches, along with the more treacherous tease of a short afternoon sun, have me in countdown mode. I'm already dreaming of sunny scenes, sandy shorelines, picnics in parks and trees full of foliage. With these thoughts, my mind floats to the Mediterrenean and last summer's trip to Nice. Photos of the Cours Saleya market reminded me of warmer times and vibrant scenes, both of food and flowers.
Flower Market of Cours Saley
Palais Cais de Pierla - Building Overlooking Cours Saleya and the Third Floor Apartment Once the Home of Matisse
The Cours Saleya, both a flower market and a food market every day but Monday, is on the street of the same name. South of the maze of streets in the old town, the market fills the center of the large space that is Cours Saleya. On offer is the usual street market fare of France, seasonal fruits, vegetables, cheese, bread, etc. Mediterrenean flavors and those from the South of France are also in abundance: socca (a chickpea flour pancake), marinated olives, candied fruits (fruits confit), marzipan, calissons, lavender, soaps, spices, herbs, and salts. Perfectly located among cafes, bistros and shops that line each side of the market, and only one street away is the beach and the beachside Promenade des Anglais.
After our day at the market, we opted for a picnic high above the town. The Colline du Chateau (Castle Hill) east of Cours Saleya, is at the eastern end of the Quai des Etats-Unis. You can climb the 213 steps or, for only a few euros, take the elevator. The castle on the hill was dismantled in 1706 under Louis XIV, and later became a park in the 19th century. Besides picnics and wandering through the park, you can check out the observation deck for sweeping views of the Bay of Angels and Old Nice to the west, and on the port to the east. You will also find a giant man-made waterfall, along with small ones throughout the park, and the former castle's ruins. It was an ideal spot to enjoy our market fare with belle views of the city below and nature around us.
View of the Bay of Angels from Castle Hill (Colline du Chateau)
Overlooking the Cours Saleya from Castle Hill (Colline du Chateau)
After lunch, a stroll along the Promenade des Anglais and a few laps in the sea were definitely in order. You know we had to make room in our bellies for dinner!
Benches along the Promenade des Anglais
Market Days and Hours:
Flower Market - Tuesday, Thursday, Friday: 6am to 5:30pm - Wednesday, Saturdays & Sunday: 6am to 1:30pm
Fruit and Vegetable Market - Every day but Monday: 6am to 1:30pm
Antiques Market - Mondays: 7:30am to 6pm (except for holidays or eves of holidays)
This week in Italian recipes includes more hearty winter fare; soups, beans, braises, pork involtini, and there are two easy and delicious desserts.
So packed with posts from ONE pizza- making class is the Eating Italy section, that I thought about changing the title of this week's roundup to Pizza with Bonci. Many food writers/bloggers/teachers in Italy attended the Rome pizza-making class of Gabriele Bonci, heralded as the "Michaelangelo of Pizzaioli" (pizza makers) by Vogue. They were kind enough to share their notes from the class and many photos in their blog posts. Now all of us can feel as if we were right there with them. There are links to all the pizza-making posts and links to videos of Chef Bonci from the Italian TV show "Prova del Cuoco."
In addition to the pizza posts, Eating Italy includes links to sausage making in Abruzzo, Pork in Southern Italy, markets in Rome and Lazio, Italian wines, and coffee in Rome. There is also information and a review on a Slow Food book that translates and explains regional Italian Cooking. Enjoy and Buon Appetito!
My Choice for Top 10 Italian Recipes from Around the Web:
The Tuscan Cook shares his Nonna Ida's Rovelline Lucchesi - This dish warms my insides just by looking at it and it's easy to prepare - Aurelio Barattini
Comfort Food - Even the photo of this chicken with fennel and olives on a bed of creamy polenta dish is comforting - Proud Italian Cook
Video of Gabriele Bonci Making Pizza and for more Videos of Gabriele Bonci demonstrating pizza making and bread - These videos are from the popular Italy cooking show "Prova del Cuoco" - Thanks Katie Parla and Kitty's Kitchen for suggesting the links (in Italian)
Upcoming Food and Wine Festivals in Italy:
Grappa (and other spirits) Festival - January 28 to 30 - Perugia - The 4th annual festival celebrating all spirits, with Grappa being the "queen" will be at the Rocca Paolina in Perugia
Identita Golose - January 30 to February 1 - Milan - Food, Wine and Pastry Festival with chef demonstrations
Fiera del Cioccolato - February 4 to 13 - Florence - In Piazza Santa Croce and in an early celebration of Carnevale, the city celebrates artisanal chocolate
Cioccolosita (Chocolate Festival in Tuscany) - February 4 to 6, 2011 - The town of Monsummano Terme, near Pistoia, hosts a chocolate festival and brings chocolatiers from all over Italy with samples!
Carnevale di Venezia - February 26 to March 8, 2011 - A magical event that I would recommend attending at least once in your life, the entire city of Venice becomes a stage
CioccolaTo 2011 - March 25 - April 3 - Chocolate festival in Turin
Vinitaly 2011 - April 7 to 11, 2011 - International wine festival in Verona
As Valentine's Day approaches, my mind is on romance. I've been working on a romantic Valentine's dinner menu. One where each course includes chocolate. Try as I might to focus on the menu, even a chocolate menu, my mind keeps wandering to Italy. I know I'm not the only one that connects romance and Italy, right? There are, however, particular places in Italy that are more enchanting than others.
Those places are etched in my mind as spots I want to return with that someone special. Spots that induced "oohs" and caused heavy breathing from long inhales and deep sighs. So magical, they deserve their own stories that start "Once upon a time" and end "happily ever after;" the place where the prince first kisses the princess.
Is this a cheesy, goofy, girly post? Yes, I guess so! I'm a hopeless romantic. Remember, I'm the one that rejected a gondola ride that included an offer to steer the gondola, to wait and ride with my anima gemella (twin of my soul/soulmate). Although this post may tilt way on the side of "for the girls" hopefully, my dear male readers, I haven't lost you. If you're planning to whisk someone away on a romantic trip to Italy, for Valentine's Day or any other occasion, these little wanderings of mine could certainly be of help.
Here are my picks for ten best places to kiss in Italy. You'll see a pattern in my choices. For me, water - be it an ocean, lake or river, along with long stretches of beach or promenades, and evening lights qualify as molto romantico. I know there are far more than ten, but I'm hoping you, my fellow Italophiles and romantics, will help by adding your favorite(s) to the comments:
Rome - Castel Sant' Angelo on the Terrace of the Angel
Rome has many breathtaking hilltop views, but this is my favorite and, for me, the most romantic. At the top of a castle with the Archangel Michael above, sword in hand, standing guard, your "prince charming" (principe azzurro) beside you, the Eternal City all aglow below, and the hills of Rome twinkling in the distance.
Taormina - Piazza IX Aprile
View from Piazza IX Aprile in Taormina
Piazza IX Aprile in Taormina
Most of Taormina rests on the seaside cliffs of Sicily's eastern coast. The lower part of the city is home to two beach areas. Of course it's a city for romance. The bustling Piazza 9 April is midway along the long, mainly pedestrian street, corso Umberto I. You can snuggle in a corner along the railing at the rim of the piazza and look onto the eastern coastline of Sicily and the sprawling Ionian Sea. The clock tower (Torre dell'Orologio) and St. Agostino Church are at the other end of the piazza. While I was in Taormina, every night I saw countless brides and grooms strolling hand-in-hand out of St. Agostino and the other churches in the city.
The Aeolian Islands - A boat ride around Stromboli
Definitely a spot for romance are all of the Aeolian Islands. A boat ride around Stromboli at dusk and an evening ride back to Lipari stands out in my mind as the most romantic part of the trip. Stromboli erupted and spewed it flames of lava. (If only I were with my "one true love" instead of being bothered continually by a pesky marinaio.) The pesky sailor did point out La Stella di Venere ("star" of Venus, actually the planet), which I had never seen before. On the night ride back to Lipari, you could clearly spot the Big and Little Dippers, called Orsa Maggiore and Minore in Italian. (If the sailor wasn't good for romance at least he was good for learning a few new words in Italian.)
Vernazza - From Above or Along the Harbor
I couldn't leave "my happy place" off the list. At dusk atop the hill overlooking Vernazza, you will certainly be alone. I would suggest bringing a bottle of wine AND a flashlight. Winding your way down in the dark, can be a struggle, even without having had any wine. For those who don't want to climb, the harbor is just as romantic.
Anywhere in Venice
Saint Mark's Square - Venice
I believe the water and the reflections of the city - its lights, its buidings, its glass - flickering above the water's surface does something to your senses. How can you not feel amorous here? Kiss on bridges, in a quiet calle, along the small canals, on the steps of Santa Maria della Salute, on Giudecca - looking out at the Doge's Palace and the Campanile, in the back seats of an empty vaporetto. Possibly the best place of all is St. Mark's Square when it's virtually empty, very late at night.
Florence - Ponte Santa Trinita: Looking onto the Arno and the Ponte Vecchio
While students, tourists and young lovers pack the Ponte Vecchio, take a stroll along the Santa Trinita bridge for a bit of quiet, and a view of the Ponte Vecchio and the lights along the Arno.
Camogli - The Beach at Dusk
Camogli, one of the many picturesque towns in Liguria, has a long stretch of beach. After the daytime crowds depart, this stretch of beach allows you to carve out a private spot for smooching and watching the sun set on the Ligurian Sea. To top it off, Camogli celebrates lovers during St. Valentine's Day and the week preceding it. The festival is called "Innamorati a Camogli." Hotels have special deals for couples, there are art and poetry competitions dedicated to love, and hearts are strung everywhere in the city. You can add your heart to the fishing nets along the harbor.
Sorrento - Belvedere di Sorrento
View from Belvedere di Sorrento
Naples and the Gulf of Naples from Sorrento
Behind the Convent and Cloister of San Franceso is the terrace called Belvedere di Sorrento. You have sweeping views of the coastline, a look down the cliffs onto the Marinas Grande and Piccolo of Sorrento, and out onto the Bay of Naples. Many couples end their walks through Sorrento here, cuddled together against the terrace railing or along the park benches.
Lago Maggiore - The Terraced Gardens on Isola Bella
The island on Lake Maggiore houses Palazzo Borromeo and one of the most spectacular gardens in all of Italy. The terraced gardens lush with greenery, flowers and statues are a sight all by themselves. Adding to the beauty are the white peacocks that roam the gardens, the views of Lake Maggiore and of the mountains, snow-capped in Winter and Spring. The variety of plants in the garden provide color from March to October. The beauty of both the gardens and the surrounding views make it a perfect place for a prince and his princess. Actually, legend has it that the ladies of Count Borromeo's household asked him to build the palace on the island because they didn't want to hear the prisoners' cries from the dungeons in the mainland's castle.
Napoli - Via Partenope
Via Partenope is part of a long stretch of road that edges along the sea, the lungomare, stretching from Santa Lucia to Mergellina. Along the Via Partenope stretch is a long promenade with views of Castel d'Ovo and Mt. Vesuvius in the background. Other lovers have left their mark along this class lovers' stroll. Look out for padlocks, painted with couples' names, locked around poles along the promenade.
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Where are your picks for most romantic spots and the best places to kiss in Italy?
Last week I said something about one holiday season ending with Epiphany and another one beginning - the Carnevale season. Well, included in the Top 10 Recipes is one for the fried treats from Venice for Carnival. In case any of us wants to end our detox and/or diet, there are several sweet recipes included in this week's Top 10. Along with the sweet recipes, I've included ones from the tip of Lombardy in the North to the point of il tacco (the heel) in the south. Eating Italy includes breadmaking in Rome, cheese, hazelnuts and spumante in Piedmont, pasta bowls for only 4 euros in Rome (what?!), lots of wine and lardo! And, Florence will be celebrating an early Carnevale with an artisan chocolate festival. Enjoy this week's roundup everyone and Buon Appetito!
My Choices for This Week's Top 10 Recipes from Around the Web:
Frank bets you can't eat just one - Savory Zeppole - Memorie di Angelina
From the north of the Lombardy region, Pizzoccheri della Valtellina (Buckwheat pasta with potatoes, Savoy Cabbage and Valtellina cheese) - Quatro Fromagio
A ragu that takes all day to cook and the recipe passed down from nonna - My Big Fat Italian Meat Sauce - Juls Kitchen
Breadmaking with Gariele Bonci in Rome A roundup with great photos and video of Elizabeth's class with "THE pizza guy in Rome" - Elizabeth Minchilli in Rome
Grappa (and other spirits) Festival - January 28 to 30 - Perugia - The 4th annual festival celebrating all spirits, with Grappa being the "queen" will be at the Rocca Paolina in Perugia
Fiera del Cioccolato - February 4 to 13 - Florence - In Piazza Santa Croce and in an early celebration of Carnevale, the city celebrates artisanal chocolate
Cioccolosita (Chocolate Festival in Tuscany) - February 4 to 6, 2011 - The town of Monsummano Terme, near Pistoia, hosts a chocolate festival and brings chocolatiers from all over Italy with samples!
Carnevale di Venezia - February 26 to March 8, 2011 - A magical event that I would recommend attending at least once in your life, the entire city of Venice becomes a stage
CioccolaTo 2011 - March 25 - April 3 - Chocolate festival in Turin
Vinitaly 2011 - April 7 to 11, 2011 - International wine festival in Verona
I'm sitting on a rock. The sun heats my face. The warmth penetrates my body from the sun above and the rock below. The waves slap against the rocks, even splash me a little, and then swish away. The music that the ebb and flow makes gives me the sensation of rocking back and forth with it. In front of me, little boats painted in primary colors shimmy against the harbor's shore. Their gem-like reflections dance on the water's surface. In the background, children laugh and play on the beach or shriek as they jump from the high rock behind me. Once in a while, the churchbell chimes to let me know time is still moving. Bright umbrellas against terracotta buildings fill the piazza. It's a happy place.
It's all interupted by someone nudging me and saying, "Miss Ayer, I'm finished. Is everything ok?" Reality.
My body was actually in a dentist's chair. My mouth was cranked wide open by what looked like two mini tire jacks. To prevent anything from falling into my throat and choking me, a rubbery blue "shield" stretched from inside one end of my mouth to the other. As if things weren't bad enough, the dentist was drilling. The shake jarred my entire head and the screech of the drill grinding away at my teeth pierced my ears; it was too much for me. I wanted to scream, cry, smack the dentist away from my face, and run away. I could feel my heart racing and my body start to tremble. I didn't move.
I stayed and instead calmed myself. I closed my eyes and mentally ran away. I've done this since childhood because fear of the relentless teasing from my brother, sister, and even my dad was greater than the near panic attacks at the dentist's. Even now, all grown up, I hate the dentist's chair. And, last year I spent way too much time there. (I'm certain pastries and chocolate had nothing to do with it.) Each time I started to hyperventilate, I took myself to the exact same place. The Cinque Terre in Italy. Specifically, to the harbor in Vernazza. It's my happy place. One I've returned to again and again, both mentally and physically, almost every trip to Italy.
The Cinque Terre is no secret, made popular by Rick Steves before I ever traveled there. It's so ON the beaten path, that many criticize it and its crowds. Those who were there 20 and 30 years ago reminisce about its raw beauty before being trampled on by the masses. I wasn't there then, so I can't make the comparison. Almost 14 years ago marks my first visit. In fact, in the last 18 months, I've been there 3 times, late May, early September and at the peak of tourist season in July. Yes, it is crowded, mostly during the day and worse when the large tour groups pack together. I seem to see past the crowds though and still see each of the five lands as tiny and special.
I've searched along Liguria's coast for a place less crowded and one I like better; Camogli, Portofino, Portovenere, Santa Margherita Ligure, Rapallo, Lavagna and more. Although Camogli and Portovenere came close, for me, those five little lands that teeter on the rocky Ligurian coastline still have more charm. It's my escape by the sea.
When I'm tired of risking my life crossing the street in Italy's cities, want to run from the inland heat, or just want to stop researching for a minute, the Cinque Terre is the first place that comes to mind. I can rent a lettino (sun bed) or plop down on a rock and relax.
Ok, there are a few "culinary" things I'd like to do: cook in the galley with Ciak, for example. There's also a certain pesto guy who I'd like to give me a personal pesto-making lesson. Oh, there's the terraced vineyards that I'd love to work during harvest for just a short while. You know, one or two days before it actually feels like the back-breaking work it is. Of course, all these good intentions fly right out the train window as soon as the train pulls into Monterosso's station, where the beach beckons me from the station's terrace.
View of Monterosso's Beach from the Train Station's Terrace
The five lands that make up the Cinque Terre are, from north to south, Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. Each town butts right up against the shoreline. No matter if my room is on the marina or high on the cliff, every night I fall asleep to the sound of waves lapping against the rocks. Each morning I wake to the same sound, and also a churchbell chiming.
Monterosso al Mare is the biggest of the five towns. It is divided into old town and new by a tunnel. In the new town you’ll find the popular umbrella-lined beach, promenade, and a few hotels and restaurants. You can find gorgeous views and photo ops of the new town and coastline from the rocky outcrops at each end of the beach. The old town is a maze of narrow alleys (caruggi) where you’ll find shops, most of the hotels, eateries, and restaurants.
Vernazza, shaped like a horseshoe around its harbor, seems to have only one street, via Roma, one piazza, Piazza Marconi, and the harbor. However, many narrow caruggi branch out from both sides of via Roma. These caruggi take you back and up into the stacked homes of Vernazza. At the end of via Roma is the piazza, where pastel-colored facades and umbrella-covered tables line the rim of the piazza. Anchoring each end of the marina is the church, to one side, and a ruined castle, il castello, to the other.
Corniglia is the most remote of the five towns, mainly because you have to climb to get to it from all sides, the walking paths from Manarola or Vernazza, or the 365 steps from the train station. The rainbow of colors that make up the village's buildings nestle themselves among green hills filled with grape vines.
Manarola buildings fall in a step-like fashion and appear to tumble right into the marina. The main road circles its way up from the train station to the top of the city.
Riomaggiore is the most southern of the five lands, usually known as the first. It once had a major river running through it (which has been paved over). Hence the name: rio (dialect for river) maggiore (major).
Via dell'Amore trail along the Sentiero Azzurro
A few of my favorite things to do in the Cinque Terre:
There is the famous Sentiero Azzurro, the walking path that connects the five lands. The most rigorous stretch is from Monterosso to Vernazza. The easiest is the Lover's Lane hike (via dell' amore) from Manarola to Riomaggiore. The hike, in total, takes between 5 to 6 hours. You can break the hike into 2 or 3-day segments to make it less strenuous and give you time to enjoy other activities.
See it from the sea. Catch the ferry that goes to each land, and you get a whole new perspective of each town from the water. A day pass, 15 euros last summer, lets you travel to each town, hop off, walk around, take a swim, and/or eat, and hop back on to go the next town. The ferry travels outside the Cinque Terre to Portovenere.
See each of the 5 towns by train. You can buy a day pass for a few euros and travel to and from each town all day (they also have multi-day passes). Train travel is the quickest, least strenuous, and most budget-friendly means of seeing each town.
Rent a kayak or paddleboat. From Monterosso’s beach, you can rent kayaks and paddleboats and row or peddle your way out to sea.
Relax on the beach. Monterosso has the only traditional stretch of beach. For 15-18 euros (prices vary with season and there are half-day prices), you can rent two sunbeds (lettini) with an umbrella. This is my favorite activity. Between Vernazza and Corniglia, there is another smaller stretch of beach, the secluded clothes-optional Guvano beach. Guvano has an entrance fee, 5 euros. You can find a warm rock in Vernazza, Manarola or Riomaggiore for free. Monterosso also has free public areas.
Grilled Calamari from Ristorante Miky
Eating:
Of course there's the lovely Ligurian food, mostly from the sea. Pesto Genovese is the most well-known dish of the region. Anchovies are fresh from the sea, nothing like the canned ones in the States. You'll find them marinated in lemon (acciughe al limone), salted (acciughe salate) and with pasta. For breakfast or a snack, there is also focaccia.
Here are my favorite places to eat in the Cinque Terre:
in Monterosso -
Ristorante Miky - Everything is delicious here, but the grilled calamari, shown above, was a standout.
Ristorante Ciak - La Lampara - In the old town of Monterosso. My absolute favorite is the risotto ai frutti di mare
Fornaio Monterosso - For the focaccia - It's at the end of the promenade going away from the old town. Mornings and afternoons, when the focaccia is fresh out of the oven, is the best time to stop by.
in Vernazza -
Ristorante Vulnetia - It's tucked away in the back left corner of Piazza Marconi. I especially liked their spaghetti con le vongole, stuffed mussels and either pesto dish, trofie or trenette.
Taverna del Capitano - This restarant is on the other corner of Piazza Marconi, at an angle from Vulnetia. I like their anchovy specialties, especially the anchovies four ways and with spaghetti, and the spaghetti allo scoglio.
I've included more photos of the Cinque Terre and Ligurian food in the slideshow below:
Useful Websites:
Cinque Terre Ferries - Information on ferries for the Cinque Terre and the Golf of Poets
Welcome to this week's edition of Italy on a Plate. The holidays, or should I say the Christmas holidays (Carnival festivities are fast approaching), were officially over in Italy as of January 6, with the arrival of La Befana for the Epiphany. My choice for the Top 10 Recipes this week includes many recipes suitable for post-holiday fare and those doing the dreaded four-letter D word. They include small bites - antipasti, pasta dishes and more vegetable dishes. There is one sweet dish, cookies from Siena!
Who is planning a trip to Italy in 2011? For those of you making your travel plans, Eating Italy is full of suggestions and photos from eateries throughout the bel paese, with Rome weighing in with the most links. There is information about wines of Italy and a cookbook giveaway from Deb at Italian Food Forever. Enjoy this week's roundup and Buon Appetito!
My Choices for this Week's Top 10 Recipes from Around the Web:
When life gives you lemons, what do you do? Well some move to Rome and get lemon gelato...not any lemon gelato but San Crispino Lemon Gelato - An American in Rome
Rome: Volpetti - A look inside the delicious food shop, Volpetti, in Rome - Babara Austin
20 locali da bere e da stuzzicare a Roma (20 places to drink and "nibble" in Rome) - "Happy Hour," as we know it is just as popular in Italy. You'll find your before dinner drink price, aperitivi, includes Italian snacks from a buffet. Here are 20 places in Rome suggested by Tavole Romane (In Italian)
2011 Rome Dining Guide - Katie gives information on the dining scene in Rome, with openings, closing and her favorites - Parla Food
Wines of Puglia - This piece had me cringing at some of the descriptions like, "reticint at first then slowly revealing layered notes...." or "a hint of Band-aid on the nose...." Beyond the flowery descriptions is information on the wine in Puglia - Snooth
Italian Cookbook Giveaway - Deb is giving away two of her favorite Italian Cookbooks - Italian Food Forever
Upcoming Food and Wine Festivals in Italy:
Cioccolosita (Chocolate Festival in Tuscany) - February 4 to 6, 2011 - The town of Monsummano Terme, near Pistoia, hosts a chocolate festival and brings chocolatiers from all over Italy with samples!
Carnevale di Venezia - February 26 to March 8, 2011 - A magical event that I would recommend attending at least once in your life, the entire city of Venice becomes a stage
CioccolaTo 2011 - March 25 - April 3 - Chocolate festival in Turin
Vinitaly 2011 - April 7 to 11, 2011 - International wine festival in Verona
The first time I took this drive, I was looking for the fastest way to get from Sorrento to Amalfi. I had slept in after too many limoncello the night before. With the extra sleep and a clearer head, I wanted to meet back up with my friends, who had taken an earlier ferry to Amalfi. The pensione owner, who patted my hand in a grandfatherly way each time I asked for help, went over the bus schedule with me and told me where to catch the bus. As I headed out, he handed me a napkin full of biscotti and blurted something quickly in Italian. All I heard was "mal di stomaco" (upset stomach). I said, "grazie" and blushed, thinking he must have known I drank too much the night before.
As it was my first time in Sorrento, and Italy, family and friends gave me a laundry list of "must dos and sees" for each city. The list was so long that I would have had to spend all my time seeing other people's favorites instead of creating my own. After maybe one day of trying to do that, I decided to ignore the list and find my own favorites. My notes on the list next to the Amalfi Drive read, "Take the bus from Sorrento to Amalfi - nice view."
Nice view doesn't quite describe the bus ride. It started out a little slow and bumpy as we ambled across the peninsula. (Sorrento is on the northern side of the Sorrentine peninsula. At the tip of this peninsula, the gulf of Naples ends and the Amalfi Coast begins.) I saw lemon groves, houses, and hotels tucked away among more lemon groves as we crossed the peninsula. Once we arrived at the coastline, things changed dramatically.
The ride went from bumpy to winding. After the first few curves, I understood why the pensione owner had said, "mal di stomaco" and given me the cookies. The two-way highway is a narrow winding road, barely wide enough for two buses to fit next to each other when coming from different directions. (More than once, one bus had to back out of a turn because both buses wouldn't fit.) On one side of the highway is a steep wall of rock climbing farther up and back. The other side, the coastal side, is an even steeper drop, hundreds of feet, down into the blue sea. A small railing winds with the highway road. It's the only barrier between the road and the drop.
The bus hugged the railing as we wound our way along the coast. At every curve the bus driver tooted the horn to announce its entrance into the even narrower turn. The bus driver's gray hair and beard gave me comfort. At the time I thought this showed his experience and success with driving this road. Looking back, I think the stress from this drive several times every day might have caused him to gray prematurely.
My coast-side window view drew my attention away from the barf bag-inducing push and pull of the road. That view, throughout the entire ride, made my mouth drop deep like the cliffs from which we drove. The sapphire blue sea. Stark white or pastel colored villas, topped one upon another, clung to the hillside. Bougainvillea climbed walls and terraced patios in full fuschia-colored bloom. There were more lemon groves and also small secluded beach coves nestled in the curves of the rocky coastline.
Looking Down on the Coastline's Cliffs
View of the Amalfi Coastline
Villa Clinging to the Cliff
Bougainvilla Covered Building Along the Drive
Secluded Beach
Looking Down on Positano from the Positano Bus Stop
Positano
That first trip was years ago. Each time I return, I take this bus ride. Each ride is like my first, awestruck I gawk out the window. Yes, I could rent a car and drive myself, being able to stop whenever I choose. I'd rather let someone else, who is more experienced with the road and Italian drivers, drive while I look. You can rent a private driver, but the bus is a great deal for such a view. Last summer the roundtrip fare from Sorrento to Amalfi was 7.50 euros. Luckily, I almost never get carsick, but I still pack a few cookies and a water with me each time, just in case. These photos are from my most recent trip in the summer.
Yes, the drive is a "nice view," indeed. This is one piece of "must see" advice I'm glad I took, although accidentally. And, limoncello continues to play an important part in some of my most memorable travel experiences.
Information on using the buses:
The SITA bus website gives you information on bus routes and schedules. There are buses that run from Sorrento to Amalfi, stopping along the way at Positano.
From the main bus stop in Amalfi, you can pick up another bus to ride along the rest of the coastline to Salerno.
Bus schedules change throughout the year, but you can easily pick up a current schedule wherever you're staying, the tourist office in Sorrento Positano or Amalfi, and at the bus ticket offices in each city. Many tabacco shops (Tabacchi) and cafes along the coast also sell bus tickets.
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What "must see" travel advice are you glad you took? Is there one "must see" you wish you hadn't?
I hope everyone has recovered from from a holiday season of feasting and fun. From what I've seen this week in recipes, it looks like even Italy is ready to detox, or at least eat a little healthier. The Top 10 Recipes are filled with vegetables and lighter fare, well for the most part. New Year's tradition in Italy is to eat lentils to bring fortune in the new year, or at a least a few extra euros. I've included two lentil dishes. In Eating Italy, I would say the focus has nothing to do with lighter fare and more to do with pork and wine. Festivals seemed to have slowed down a bit during the cold months, but CioccolaTo in Turin is on for March. Here's to good Italian food and travels in Italy in 2011! Buon Appetito Tutti!
My Choice for This Week's Top 10 Italian Recipes from Around the Web:
The Ultimate White Truffle Experience - Lael Hazan shares a birthday dinner with the Hazan family and Marcella's White Truffle Tartino recipe - Huffington Post
Antica Macelleria Norcineria Marianelli - Story and photos of the family-run, one-hundred year old butcher shop specializing in pork products in Tuscany - Tuscany: Wine, Food & Culture
Days of Wine and Rabbits - Typical dishes and the culinary scene on the Island of Ischia, near Naples - Post-Gazette.com
Katie Parla shares some of her favorite foods of 2010 from Rome and beyond in My Very Best Bites of 2010 - Parla Food
January 17th is the International Day of Italian Cuisine - It's the 4th year of a worldwide celebrtion of Italian food - Pesto alla Genovese is this year's official dish - IT Chefs
Cioccolart - December 18 to January 8, 2011 - Taormina, Sicily - In Piazza del Carmine, chocolate, art and culture come together
Sagra della Sfincia - January 6, 2011 - A town outside of Palermo, Montelepre (the town of my grandparents) celebrates the town's sweet fried dough
Cioccolosita (Chocolate Festival in Tuscany) - February 4 to 6, 2011 - The town of Monsummano Terme, near Pistoia, hosts a chocolate festival and brings chocolatiers from all over Italy with samples!
Carnevale di Venezia - February 26 to March 8, 2011 - A magical event that I would recommend attending at least once in your life, the entire city of Venice becomes a stage
CioccolaTo 2011 - March 25 - April 3 - Chocolate festival in Turin
Vinitaly 2011 - April 7 to 11, 2011 - International wine festival in Verona
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