The Cinque Terre - My Happy Place in Italy

 

 

Vernazza Harbor and Piazza Marconi

 

I'm sitting on a rock.  The sun heats my face.  The warmth penetrates my body from the sun above and the rock below.  The waves slap against the rocks, even splash me a little, and then swish away. The music that the ebb and flow makes gives me the sensation of rocking back and forth with it.  In front of me, little boats painted in primary colors shimmy against the harbor's shore. Their gem-like reflections dance on the water's surface.  In the background, children laugh and play on the beach or shriek as they jump from the high rock behind me.  Once in a while, the churchbell chimes to let me know time is still moving.  Bright umbrellas against terracotta buildings fill the piazza.  It's a happy place. 

 

It's all interupted by someone nudging me and saying, "Miss Ayer, I'm finished.  Is everything ok?"  Reality.  

 

 

My body was actually in a dentist's chair.  My mouth was cranked wide open by what looked like two mini tire jacks.  To prevent anything from falling into my throat and choking me, a rubbery blue "shield" stretched from inside one end of my mouth to the other. As if things weren't bad enough, the dentist was drilling.  The shake jarred my entire head and the screech of the drill grinding away at my teeth pierced my ears; it was too much for me.  I wanted to scream, cry, smack the dentist away from my face, and run away.  I could feel my heart racing and my body start to tremble.  I didn't move.

I stayed and instead calmed myself.  I closed my eyes and mentally ran away.  I've done this since childhood because fear of the relentless teasing from my brother, sister, and even my dad was greater than the near panic attacks at the dentist's.  Even now, all grown up, I hate the dentist's chair.  And, last year I spent way too much time there. (I'm certain pastries and chocolate had nothing to do with it.)  Each time I started to hyperventilate, I took myself to the exact same place.  The Cinque Terre in Italy. Specifically, to the harbor in Vernazza.  It's my happy place. One I've returned to again and again, both mentally and physically, almost every trip to Italy.

 

 

 

 

The Cinque Terre is no secret, made popular by Rick Steves before I ever traveled there.  It's so ON the beaten path, that many criticize it and its crowds.  Those who were there 20 and 30 years ago reminisce about its raw beauty before being trampled on by the masses.  I wasn't there then, so I can't make the comparison.  Almost 14 years ago marks my first visit.  In fact, in the last 18 months, I've been there 3 times, late May, early September and at the peak of tourist season in July. Yes, it is crowded, mostly during the day and worse when the large tour groups pack together.  I seem to see past the crowds though and still see each of the five lands as tiny and special.

I've searched along Liguria's coast for a place less crowded and one I like better; Camogli, Portofino, Portovenere, Santa Margherita Ligure, Rapallo, Lavagna and more.  Although Camogli and Portovenere came close, for me, those five little lands that teeter on the rocky Ligurian coastline still have more charm.  It's my escape by the sea. 

When I'm tired of risking my life crossing the street in Italy's cities, want to run from the inland heat, or just want to stop researching for a minute, the Cinque Terre is the first place that comes to mind.  I can rent a lettino (sun bed) or plop down on a rock and relax. 

Ok, there are a few "culinary" things I'd like to do: cook in the galley with Ciak, for example.  There's also a certain pesto guy who I'd like to give me a personal pesto-making lesson.  Oh, there's the terraced vineyards that I'd love to work during harvest for just a short while. You know, one or two days before it actually feels like the back-breaking work it is.  Of course, all these good intentions fly right out the train window as soon as the train pulls into Monterosso's station, where the beach beckons me from the station's terrace.   

 

 

 View of Monterosso's Beach from the Train Station's Terrace

 

The five lands that make up the Cinque Terre are, from north to south, Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore.  Each town butts right up against the shoreline.  No matter if my room is on the marina or high on the cliff, every night I fall asleep to the sound of waves lapping against the rocks.  Each morning I wake to the same sound, and also a churchbell chiming. 

 

 

Monterosso al Mare is the biggest of the five towns.  It is divided into old town and new by a tunnel.  In the new town you’ll find the popular umbrella-lined beach, promenade, and a few hotels and restaurants.  You can find gorgeous views and photo ops of the new town and coastline from the rocky outcrops at each end of the beach.  The old town is a maze of narrow alleys (caruggi) where you’ll find shops, most of the hotels, eateries, and restaurants.

 

 

 
 

Vernazza, shaped like a horseshoe around its harbor, seems to have only one street, via Roma, one piazza, Piazza Marconi, and the harbor.  However, many narrow caruggi branch out from both sides of via Roma.  These caruggi take you back and up into the stacked homes of Vernazza. At the end of via Roma is the piazza, where pastel-colored facades and umbrella-covered tables line the rim of the piazza.  Anchoring each end of the marina is the church, to one side, and a ruined castle, il castello, to the other. 

 

 
 

 

Corniglia is the most remote of the five towns, mainly because you have to climb to get to it from all sides, the walking paths from Manarola or Vernazza, or the 365 steps from the train station.  The rainbow of colors that make up the village's buildings nestle themselves among green hills filled with grape vines.   

 

 

 
 

 

Manarola buildings fall in a step-like fashion and appear to tumble right into the marina.  The main road circles its way up from the train station to the top of the city. 

 

 

Riomaggiore is the most southern of the five lands, usually known as the first.  It once had a major river running through it (which has been paved over).  Hence the name: rio (dialect for river) maggiore (major).

 

 
Via dell'Amore trail along the Sentiero Azzurro  

 

A few of my favorite things to do in the Cinque Terre:

There is the famous Sentiero Azzurro, the walking path that connects the five lands.  The most rigorous stretch is from Monterosso to Vernazza.  The easiest is the Lover's Lane hike (via dell' amore) from Manarola to Riomaggiore.  The hike, in total, takes between 5 to 6 hours.  You can break the hike into 2 or 3-day segments to make it less strenuous and give you time to enjoy other activities.

See it from the sea.  Catch the ferry that goes to each land, and you get a whole new perspective of each town from the water.  A day pass, 15 euros last summer, lets you travel to each town, hop off, walk around, take a swim, and/or eat, and hop back on to go the next town.  The ferry travels outside the Cinque Terre to Portovenere. 

See each of the 5 towns by train.  You can buy a day pass for a few euros and travel to and from each town all day (they also have multi-day passes).  Train travel is the quickest, least strenuous, and most budget-friendly means of seeing each town.

Rent a kayak or paddleboat.  From Monterosso’s beach, you can rent kayaks and paddleboats and row or peddle your way out to sea.

 

Relax on the beach.  Monterosso has the only traditional stretch of beach. For 15-18 euros (prices vary with season and there are half-day prices), you can rent two sunbeds (lettini) with an umbrella.  This is my favorite activity.  Between Vernazza and Corniglia, there is another smaller stretch of beach, the secluded clothes-optional Guvano beach.  Guvano has an entrance fee, 5 euros.   You can find a warm rock in Vernazza, Manarola or Riomaggiore for free. Monterosso also has free public areas.   

 

 

 
Grilled Calamari from Ristorante Miky 

Eating: 

Of course there's the lovely Ligurian food, mostly from the sea.  Pesto Genovese is the most well-known dish of the region.  Anchovies are fresh from the sea, nothing like the canned ones in the States. You'll find them marinated in lemon (acciughe al limone), salted (acciughe salate) and with pasta.  For breakfast or a snack, there is also focaccia.

Here are my favorite places to eat in the Cinque Terre: 

in Monterosso -

Ristorante Miky - Everything is delicious here, but the grilled calamari, shown above, was a standout.

 

Ristorante Ciak - La Lampara - In the old town of Monterosso.  My absolute favorite is the risotto ai frutti di mare

Fornaio Monterosso - For the focaccia - It's at the end of the promenade going away from the old town.  Mornings and afternoons, when the focaccia is fresh out of the oven, is the best time to stop by.

 

 in Vernazza -

Ristorante Vulnetia - It's tucked away in the back left corner of Piazza Marconi.  I especially liked their spaghetti con le vongole, stuffed mussels and either pesto dish, trofie or trenette.

Taverna del Capitano - This restarant is on the other corner of Piazza Marconi, at an angle from Vulnetia.  I like their anchovy specialties, especially the anchovies four ways and with spaghetti, and the spaghetti allo scoglio.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I've included more photos of the Cinque Terre and Ligurian food in the slideshow below:

 

 

 

Useful Websites:

Cinque Terre Ferries - Information on ferries for the Cinque Terre and the Golf of Poets

TrenItalia - Website for the Italy rail system

 

Related Posts:

Camogli - One of Many Picturesque Towns in Liguria

The Dish from Liguria - Trofie al Pesto

The Dish from Liguria - Risotto al Due (Risotto ai Frutti di Mare)

This Dish from Liguria - Fish Ravioli with Seafood Sauce

The Dish from Liguria - Spaghetti allo Scoglio

Favorite Regional Italian Pasta Dishes

A Drive Along the Amalfi Coast

Neapolitan-Style Mussels (Cozze alla Marinara)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Comments

[Mark]

Wow. I can't believe how amazing the scenery and food looks. Thanks for the post.

[Paolo]

Cinque Terre is probably my favorite place in Italy, thanks for giving such a beautiful description. And your Trofie are so appealing that I can almost smell them. Love it!

[Liz]

Our family visited Cinque Terre this summer...man, oh, man, do your pictures make me yearn to go back...one of the most gorgeous areas I've ever seen! Thanks for taking us on your journey!

[Frank]

Gorgeous! Funnily enough, in all the years I lived in Italy, I never got to the Cinque Terre. What a shame. We did go down to the costiera Amalfitana, on the other hand, from time to time. Looks very similar, without the pesto genovese, however... :)

[Simply Life]

Oh this is one of the places I REALLY want to see - gorgeous pictures!!!

[Chef Dennis]

Thank you for such glorious images of the Cinqe Terre
I have never been to that part of Italy!
Have a wonderful weekend
Dennis

[Roz]

Wow, I felt as if I was right there in Italy as I looked at your beautiful photos! We're planning a trip to Italy right now for 2012, so I am more anxious then ever to go! Thanks for sharing; now following. Stop by my blog sometime if you can. Ciao.

[Kathy]

Thank you Mark, Paolo, Liz, Frank, Simply Life, Chef Dennis, and Roz for the very sweet comments.

Mark - Yes, it is that beautiful there.

Paolo - I'm so happy that the Cinque Terre is one of your favorite places in Italy! Yes, the trofie were really good.

Frank - Do you get to make it back to Italy regularly for visits? Perhaps because the costiera Amalfitana was a little closer to Rome than the Cinque Terre you went there instead? There are similarities, and as you say, pesto genovese is not one of them. Also, where the Amalfi coast has the drive, Cinque Terre has the hike. I also found the Amalfi Coast to be, how should I say, maybe a little more buttoned up than the very laid back Cinque Terre.

Chef Dennis - I hope you get to make it there soon.

Roz - Thanks. Wow, 2012 and you are already planning! You are very organized. Is the Cinque Terre in your plans?

[Hyosun Ro]

Beautiful places and photos!! That grilled calamari looks so perfectly done and delicious.

[Jessica]

Oh my, this is really making me wish it was summer and I was in Italy. I've never been to Cinque Terre, but it's definitely on my "To Go" list.

[Tiffany]

Oh, how I would love to be in Cinque Terre right now!

[Corinne @ Degustinations]

Simply gorgeous... on all fronts. The towns look like miniatures, so real and unreal at the same time. I love the bright colours and the sunny sensations you portray in this post. One of my favourites. A happy place for me too :)

[Tuula]

Your blog is so wonderful! I got really caught up in the beginning of the post...& then yanked back to reality when we found you were at the dentist! But you make an excellent point...Cinque Terre is one of those magical places we all dream of & escape to in our minds whenever we think of where we'd most like to be in the world...
And I'll surely join you if you ever get a harvesting gig for those terraced vineyards - thought many the same thing myself. It's just so incredibly beautiful there! Wonderful post :)

[Sofia Britts]

Oh, such a beauty! How great it is to see 5 towns of Italy in a very budget-friendly trip! Every image resonates how lovely Italy is.