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Welcome to this week's roundup of Italian food from around the web. My picks for Top 10 Italian Recipes include a recipe that resembles the pizza al taglio at Forno in Rome, along one for stuffed zucchini flowers, stuffed tomatoes, two mouth-watering pasta recipes, two seafood recipes, eggplant cooked to look like mushrooms (funghetto), and two Italian cookie recipes! Eating Italy travels by mouth to Val d'Aosta, Carrara, Abruzzo, Rome, off the coast of Naples, and Puglia. There is an article all about the sagre in Italy, one with a map showing where the Italian DOCG wines are throughout the boot, and others about wine in Sicily and Calabria. Enjoy and Buon Appetito!
My Choice for This Week's Top 10 Itlalian Recipes from Around the Web:
Rome's Forno Campo de' Fiori Pizza at Home - Food Nouveau
Rice Filled Zucchini Squash Blossoms - Bella Baita Views
Stuffed Tomatoes with Spinach, Basil and Six Italian Cheeses - La Bella Vita
Pasta alla Norma and the story behind the dish - The Sicilian Cuisine Blog
Spaghetti con Alici Fresche (Spaghetti with Fresh Anchovies) - Calabria from Scratch
Prawns and N'duja: Surf & Turf My Way - Cime di Rapa
Seppie alla Griglia con Zucchine & Fagiolini (Grilled Cuttlefish with Zucchini & Green Beans) - The Saucy Chef
Melanzane a Funghetto - Napoli Unplugged
Cantuccini - Panini Girl
Sweet, Soft and Chewy Amaretti Cookies - La Mia Vita Dolce
Eating in Italy:
Forgotten Flavours of Puglia - Emiko Davies
Procida: An Island Getaway off the Coast of Naples - Food, fun and sun from Parla Food
Discovering a Different Italy: A Sicilian Wine Tour - The Atlantic
Picnic Alert Time at Lago Campotosto - A beautiful lake for a picnic in Abruzzo - Life in Abruzzo
Pila or Bust - Eating in Valle d'Aosta - Cake Duchess
The Sagra - What you need to know to sagra Italian style - Italain Notebook
Kick Up Your Heels Down in the South of Italy - Puglia, its masserie and wine, along with upcoming wine events - Huffington Post
The Magic of Autogrill - Quatro Fromaggio
Brewing Up in Rome - Where to drink beer in Rome - Nile Guide Rome
Italian Wine DOCG Map -for the Moment "68" - On the Wine Trail in Italy
Open Brunch: La Nostra Top Five - From low budget to ones for those with "big wallets," top 5 picks for brunch in Rome - Puntarella Rossa (in Italian)
Ciro' - Italian Grape Name and Appellation Project - DoBianchi
10 Years After - In Chianti for sangiovese - The American in Italia
Eating Michealangelo's Sandwich in Carrara - Travel Dudes
Seasonal Fruits and Vegetables From My Garden - Summer harvest from a garden in Puglia - The Puglia
Five Great Places to Eat in Rome - Food Republic
Upcoming Food and Wine Festivals in Italy:
Degustando Pisa 2011 - June 1 to 30 - Pisa - Throughout the month participating restaurants in Pisa are participating in the event, offering special fixed-price degustando menus with traditional Pisan dishes
Melodia del Vino - June 28 to July 8 - Festival where Tuscan wines and classical music meet - Various locations in Tuscany (For a description of the Melodia del Vino festival in English - Tuscanycious)
Sagra della Cozza (Mussel Festival) - June 30 to July 3 - The coastal town of Livorno in Tuscany celebrates mussels
Barolo Night 2011 - July 23 - The town La Morra, in the Piedmont region, celebrates the king of wines - Barolo - with a progressive dinner in four locations, showcasing La Morra cuisine with a wine pairing.
Sagra della Porchetta di Arricia - September 4 - The town Arricia, near Rome, most famous for the roasted suckling pig starts porchetta celebrations on the first Sunday in Septmeber
Piadina Days - September 10 & 11 - The province of Forli-Cesena in the Emilia-Romagna celebrates the region's famous piadina
Slow Food Cheese - September 16 to 19 - Bra, the home of the Slow Food Headquarters - An cheese festival that originally highlighted only local cheeses, now is an international affair celebrating artisanl cheesemaking - the site is still under construction
Taste of Milano - September 15 - 18 - Food festival celebrating the food of Milan
CousCous Festival - September 20 - 25 - San Vito Lo Capo, Sicily
EuroChocolate - October 14 to 23 - Perugia - The biggest chocolate festival in Italy
Alba Truffle Festival - October 8 to November 13 - The 81st Annual truffle festivals takes place in Alba
Chocolate in Piazza - November 4 - 6 - Carpi in Emilia-Romagna celebrates its 3rd annual chocolate festival
Merano Wine Festival - November 4 - 7 - One of the biggest wine events in Italy - The 20th anniversary of this festival will happen in the northern Italian city of Merano
Festa del Torrone - November 18 - 20 - In Cremona, a festival to celebrate the candy that much of Northern Italy associates with Christmas
Related Posts:
The Dish from Puglia: Friselle
The Dish from Puglia: Ricci di Mare (sea urchins) from Porto Badisco
Pastries of Lecce with Pastry Chef Luca Capilungo
Pizza al Taglio at Pizzarium in Rome
Favorite Regional Pasta Dishes
My Last Meal - Planning for the End of the World
Pasta all' Amatriciana - A Roman Treat
Involtini di Melanzane (Eggplant Rolls)
Eggplant Caponata and Sicilian Market Etiquette
Welcome to a new series on Food Lover's Odyssey, The Saturday Scene. I've been tossing around the idea of a day dedicated to sharing a few of my favorite scenes from Italy and France. Also, one of my friends, who regularly gives unsolicited critiques of my blog, told me that my posts are too long! Yes, he basically said I talk too much.
After picking both my mouth and my ego from the floor, I decided to mix things up a little and provide shorter posts and ones that are more photo-oriented for those that would like to look more and read less. So committed I am to doing it, I have dedicated every Saturday to posts that are short-on-words and long on lovely views of my two favorite countries.
An inspiration for this week's post has been a Twitter event I've been taking part in called #frifotos. I started participating a few weeks ago, and it's been a lot of fun. Every week @EpsteinTravels, the founder of the event, and his co-hosts pick a theme. On Friday people from around the world share their photos based on that theme. Yesterday's theme was "blue." If you missed the event but still want to see what it's all about, on Twitter you can check out the hashtag #frifotos and see all of the photos there. There are also two great roundups of the photos: @CorkBilly produces one here, and Wild About Travel shares their picks for the best FriFotos of the week.
Below are my contributions: the blues of Italy and France.
A few blues from Carnival in Venice
Images from the light show at the Bi-Annual Fete du Vin in Bordeaux
Dusk in the Cinque Terre - Above Vernazza and along the beach in Monterosso
Blue Hydrangeas from the Cours Saleya Market in Nice...
and from a florist near Rue Mouffetard in Paris
Some blues among the colorful houses of Burano
A Rue in Paris - Wouldn't you love to live here?
Blue window scene at Fauchon in Paris for Easter
Blue pedal boat at the beach in Camogli
Blue sea off the coast of Panarea in the Aeolian Islands
Along the shore in Otranto and a few blue boats there, too
The Bay of Poets in Portovenere - Liguria
Sailing in the Amalfi Coast
Blue Umbrellas and the beach in Nice
Related Posts:
Villa d'Este in Photos - A Day Trip from Rome
Market Day in Sarlat and the Food of Dordogne
My Last Meal - Preparing for the End of the World
A Tour of Lecce: The Baroque Beauty of Puglia
Spaccanapoli and Naples' Historic Center
Pizza Lover's Odyssey in Naples
Scenes from CioccolaTo Chocolate Festival in Turin
Rome with a View - Five Favorite Spots for Photo Ops in Rome
French Pastries and Ten Top Patisseries in Paris
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Summer food in Salento that couldn't be easier to prepare or tastier. Whenever the mention of summer along the Salento coastline came up, friselle were always part of the conversation. My food-loving Salento friend's (Claudia's) mouth watered whenever she described how to prepare and eat them. They resemble bagels without holes, formed in rings with the centers filled in with one of the dough ends. Made with barley and whole wheat flour and with less water than normally used to make bread, friselle are brown in color, dry and crunchy.
To prepare, you dip them in water to soften them a little; an action called bagnare le friselle in Italian. Typically, you garnish them with local tomatoes, salt, oregano and drizzle Pugliese olive oil over them. The sweet and soft tomatoes contrast nicely to the still crunchy friselle, and the olive oil adds an unctuous flavor from the Salento land. Claudia told me they are even better dipped in sea water. The sea "bath" is the normal procedure when lunching on friselle during a day at sea on a boat.
Friselle for sale along with ceramics to "bagnare" your friselle
Another testament to the ingenuity of cucina povera, friselle's popularity came about over the last hundred years and because peasants of the countryside (i contadini) needed to find foods that they could store in their homes over the winter. At the time during the winter, transportation was nonexistent to unreliable, and cities and markets were few and far between, making winter shopping extremely difficult. The peasants would stock up on food that could last for many months in their homes. Friselle were the perfect solution.
Most likely due to their ease of preparation and that they are light fare, ideal for hot summer months, friselle are now an even more popular dish in the summer. While spending the day at the beach, or on a boat, in Salento, you will certainly see locals with friselle in their beach bag. As they keep so well and are very inexpensive, you can buy a sack or two to bring home as a food souvenir. Each time I top one with sweet summer tomatoes and a drizzle of Italian olive oil, I think of Salento. The only things I'm missing are the Mediterranean Sea and a boat from which to bagnare le friselle.
You can read more about the highlights of my trip to Salento on The Travel Belles. My article is up today on the site - Puglia: Surprises at the Tip of Italy's Heel
Photo at the top of the post provided courtesy of Ylenia and used with her permission. All other photos in this post are mine, All Rights Reserved.
Related Posts:
Salento Style Lunch at Cantine Menhir
The Art of Making Pasta by Hand: Pugliese Pasta Lesson with Nonna Vata
The Pastries of Lecce with Chef Luca Capilungo
Lecce: The Baroque Beauty of Puglia
Classic Salentino Cuisine Reinvented at Sette di Sette in Lecce
Tour of L'Astore Masseria and a Frantoio Ipogeo in Salento
Cheese of Puglia: Making and Eating Fresh Cheese in Salento
The Dish from Puglia: Ricci di Mare (sea urchins) from Porto Badisco
Welcome to this week's roundup of Italian food from around the web, and Happy Father's Day to all the dads worldwide. As I think there is a heat wave throughout the Northern Hemisphere this week, my picks for Top Ten Recipes include many cool desserts for the hot summer months and a limoncello to say goodbye to the mother of one of my favorite Italian food bloggers. Along with those recipes, are stuffed and fried zucchini flowers, a chilled beet soup, fresh pasta making recipes, and two dishes from Abruzzo - beens & greens and a pasta dish.
Eating Italy includes food stories, tips and hunger-inducing photos from Puglia, Venice and Rome. I've also included several links on wines from throughout the boot and a story about Italy beating out France as the number one wine producer in the world. And, I found some stories on a gelato festival in Turin, lemon granita in Amalfi and one that has an infographic of 50 Italian coffees. Also, there is a review on an Italian wine book and a giveaway of the book at Scordo's blog site. Enjoy the week and Buon Appetito!
My Choice for This Week's Top 10 Italian Food Recipes from Around the Web:
Limoncello and Addio to La Contessa - Judy says goodbye to her mother with a final toast - Over a Tuscan Stove
Breaded Stuffed Zucchini Flowers - Italian Food Forever
Beet Me Up! - Zuppa Fredda di Barbabietola (Chilled Beetroot Soup) - The Saucy Chef
Pasta Pairings - Fresh pasta recipes - The American in Italia
Spaghetti al Farouk: Abruzzo Circa 1975 - Domenica Cooks
St. Tomasso & the Morizio's Beans & Bitter Greens - Life in Abruzzo
Artusi's June: Sour Cherry and Cinnamon Sorbet - Emiko Davies
Buttermilk Panna Cotta - The Front Burner
Lemon Basil Panna Cotta with Cherry Sauce - Letizia Golosa
Caffe' in Forchetta (coffee on a fork) - Coffee custard dessert - Italian Notes
Eating Italy:
Eating in Puglia - Food Stories
The Best Foods of Venice and the Veneto - Walks of Italy
Top 5 Cucina Romana - Want to eat good Roman cuisine in the heart of Rome? Puntarella Rossa's picks for the top five places to eat in Rome's historic center (in Italian)
Stra Gelato 2011 - Sonia takes us on a gelato marathon in Turin - Turin Love
Ten Must Eat Dishes in Rome - Parla Food
It's Coffee Time! - 50 Ways Italians Drink Coffee - Charming Italy
Italy Overtakes France to Become World's Largest Wine Producer - The Telegraph
The Morning Rounds - Un Americana in Rome
The Wine of Rome: Frascati and Fontana Candida - Charles Sciclone on Wine
Sforno: Pizza in the Rome burbs - Elizabeth Minchilli in Rome
Granita di Limone in Amalfi - Ciao Amalfi
Cianci Baldazzi: Fine Carmignano - Villa il Poggiolo in Tuscany and its wines - Kyle Phillips Italian Wine Review
Dormice, Sea Urchins and Fresh Figs: The Roman Diet Revealed - The Telegraph
Dan Amatuzzi's Italian Wine for the Student and a Book Giveaway - Scordo
Smells Like Horse Sh** and I'm glad I stepped in it: Taurasi 01 Struzziero - Do Bianchi
TerroirVino Part 1: Where Wine, People and Web Meet - Anna recaps the TerroirVino event and tasting - Itali Anna
Eating Out in Venice - Jancis Robinson
Bacaro: Intimate Dining Gem in Rome - Eleanora on Spotted by Locals - Rome
Upcoming Food and Wine Festivals in Italy:
Degustando Pisa 2011 - June 1 to 30 - Pisa - Throughout the month participating restaurants in Pisa are participating in the event, offering special fixed-price degustando menus with traditional Pisan dishes
Chianina Steak Festival - June 24 to June 26 - In Sestino, near Arezzo, they celebrate the famous Tuscan steak
Melodia del Vino - June 28 to July 8 - Festival where Tuscan wines and classical music meet - Various locations in Tuscany (For a description of the Melodia del Vino festival in English - Tuscanycious)
Sagra della Cozza (Mussel Festival) - June 30 to July 3 - The coastal town of Livorno in Tuscany celebrates mussels
Barolo Night 2011 - July 23 - The town La Morra, in the Piedmont region, celebrates the king of wines - Barolo - with a progressive dinner in four locations, showcasing La Morra cuisine with a wine pairing.
Sagra della Porchetta di Arricia - September 4 - The town Arricia, near Rome, most famous for the roasted suckling pig starts porchetta celebrations on the first Sunday in Septmeber
Slow Food Cheese - September 16 to 19 - Bra, the home of the Slow Food Headquarters - An cheese festival that originally highlighted only local cheeses, now is an international affair celebrating artisanl cheesemaking - the site is still under construction
CousCous Festival - September 20 - 25 - San Vito Lo Capo, Sicily
EuroChocolate - October 14 to 23 - Perugia - The biggest chocolate festival in Italy
Related Posts:
Roman Pasta Dishes and Ten Places to Eat Them
Caramel Gelato Recipe and Favorite Gelato Spots in Rome
Lemon Granita and Coffee Granita Recipes
Artichoke and Spinach Ravioli in a Brown Butter Sauce
Art of Making Pasta by Hand: Pugliese Pasta Lesson with Nonna Vata
Artichokes have always been a part of my life. A food memory from my childhood, they are a symbol of summer, or at least sunny days and warmer weather. When I was young, my mom would make stuffed artichokes once the sun began to shine daily, and then regularly throughout most of the summer. We ate them a lot yet never tired of them. One stuffed artichoke was a filling meal for a kid, and even an adult. No one talked as we ate. Our heads down, we scraped leaf after leaf against our teeth to get the perfect artichoke "meat" and stuffing combination. In a how-many-licks-to-the-center kind of way, I would make my way through the leaves quickly. My main goal was to get to the heart, my favorite part. Although I prepare them in various ways throughout the season, steaming them and maybe adding an olive oil & vinegar dressing is my favorite, they are still a regular part of my spring/summer table.
This year's artichoke binge, however, started in March with my trip to Italy. Artichokes were in season throughout most of country, and I saw them everywhere. They were displayed in tall stacks at outdoor markets. Vendors would sit at their stalls turning one artichoke after another, leaving a trail of the discarded leaves on the ground, paring the leaves away to get to the heart. They tossed these little round disks into buckets of acidulated water. Each heart, (il fondo in Italian) bobbed up and down in the water waiting to be taken home and eaten.
During my trip, I also found artichokes on many menus and in a variety of dishes, eating them every chance I could. I ate them in pasta dishes, on top of pizza al taglio in Rome and on pizza in Napoli. I ate just the hearts, marinated and served as cicchetti in Venice, or hearts creamed with just a bit of olive oil and slathered over crostini. They were part of the layers of vegetables in the Salento dish, Verdure al Forno. I also had them in Rome alla giudea (fried) and alla Romana (braised in a dressing of lemon juice, olive oil, parsley, wild mint and garlic).
Artichoke and Potato Puree Dish from Cibreo
All versions were delicious, but the most dramatic dish was one at Ristorante Cibreo in Florence. Laura and I ate an amazing dinner there. This dish was one that she had ordered. Luckily she was nice enough to share more than a few bites with me. The artichoke was steamed and then lightly sauteed. It sat, turned upside down, on a plate of pureed potatoes. The yellow color of the potatoes gave you an idea of the amount of butter in the puree, possibly equal to the amount of potato on the dish. With a tableside presentation, the waiter sat the dish in front of Laura and easily sliced the artichoke in half, revealing a bright orange egg yolk in the center of the overturned artichoke. The yolk added to the already creamy texture and decadence of the dish.
Eventually, I hope to recreate all these dishes I tasted during my trip. With this dish, instead of making pasta with a sauce of artichokes, I've put artichokes in the pasta. It's been my go-to ravioli filling in May. I first made it for a dinner party where the client wanted ravioli. It was a hit. I wanted to make one alteration, namely add more artichokes, tweeked the recipe, and made it for another. Again, a hit.
Finally, I made some for home, and here for you. These are in a half-moon, or agnolotti, shape. You can also make them in a square or round shape. Since it's all about the filling for me, I think the half-moon shape gives you get a better ratio of filling-to-pasta. I served them in a simple brown butter sauce and topped them with chards of Parmigiano cheese, freshly-grated black pepper and a few bits of thyme.
Artichoke and Spinach Ravioli
(makes about 60 ravioli)
For the pasta:
2 1/4 cups (300 grams) all-purpose flour
3 large eggs
For the filling:
5-6 medium-sized artichokes
20 ounces frozen spinach, thawed and drained of all water
1 cup ricotta cheese
1 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese
1 egg
2 teaspoons salt, plus more to taste
1/2 teaspoon freshly-ground pepper, plus more to taste
1-2 egg whites for assembling the ravioli
For the sauce:
1 pound (4 sticks) unsalted butter
A few sprigs of thyme
Chards or grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese for garnish
Freshly-ground black pepper, to taste
Remove the tough outer leaves of the artichokes. Steam them over simmering water for about 50 minutes, until tender. Slice the artichokes in half and remove the choke. Set aside to cool completely.
To make the pasta: Sift the flour onto a wooden working board and make a well. Break the eggs and place them in the center of the well. Using a fork beat the eggs until the yolks break and the whites and yolks are combined. Then, slowly bring in flour from the edges until there is enough flour in the center to prevent the eggs from running. Using your hands combine enough flour so that the dough is no longer sticky. Remove any excess flour from the board and knead until all the flour and egg are evenly combined and the dough is soft and smooth, about 5 minutes. Cover in plastic wrap and then a dry towel and let rest for 30 minutes.
To make the filling: Chop the artichokes into bite-size pieces, about 1/2-inch chunks, and place into a mixing bowl. Add the drained spinach (make sure all the water has been removed from the spinach), the ricotta, grated Parmigiano cheese, the egg, and salt and pepper. Stir together to combine. Adjust seasoning if necessary.
To assemble the ravioli: Roll out the dough by hand or use a pasta machine. Roll the dough out fairly thin. (Note: Each machine varies, but I rolled it to #7 on my machine.) For the half-moon agnolotti shape, use a round 3-inch in diameter cookie cutter and cut out round pasta disks. With a pastry brush, brush a little of the egg white onto the border of each pasta disk. Place about 1 1/2 teaspoons of the filling into the center of each disk. Fold over to make a half-moon shape and seal the edge with a fork. Continue this process until you have used all the pasta dough and filling. (These freeze well, so you can make extra for the future).
Bring a pot of 6-8 cups of water to a rolling boil. Add a generous amount of salt and let the water come back to a rolling boil. Add the ravioli and cook until they are al dente, about 6 minutes if they are fresh (longer if they are frozen). While the ravioli are cooking heat the butter over medium high heat until it browns. I used a stick of butter (1/2 cup) for every 15 ravioli. Once the ravioli are cooked, strain off the excess pasta water and add them to the sauce. Toss and serve with a few bits of thyme, Parmigiano cheese (chards or grated) and the black pepper. Four to five ravioli make a nice primo piatto (first pasta course). Eight ravioli will make a filling main course. Buon Appetito!
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What is your favorite artichoke dish?
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This post is part of Wanderfood Wednesdays, a group of traveling foodies who blog. Head on over there and check out what other food lovers are eating.
Related Posts:
Crimini Mushroom Ravioli with a Lemon-Cream Sauce
Fettuccine ai Funghi (Fettuccine with Wild Mushrooms) and Fall in Rome
Sagne Ncannulate Schattariciati (Handmade Pugliese Pasta with Bursted Tomato Sauce)
Cacio e Pepe in a Parmesan Bowl Inspired by Roma Sparita
The Art of Making Pasta by Hand: A Pugliese Pasta Lesson with Nonna Vata
My Last Meal - Preparing for the End of the World
Roman Pasta Dishes and Ten Places to Eat Them in Rome
Morning at the Rialto Market in Venice
This week it's all about the red and green. Not only the colors of Italy, but also the colors of summer fruits and vegetables, especially cherries, tomatoes and zucchini. All three make several appearances in the recipes I've chosen for this week's Top 10. I hope you love the collection of links from the recent festivals in Vico Equense as much as I do - pizza from the greatest pizzaioli in Italy, and upscale Italian food from some of Italy's biggest names in chefdom. Along with the section on the Vico Equense festivities, Eating Italy links include food under the Sicilian sun, the Frugal Travler falls in love with Naples and its food, more gelato and a newish restaurant in Rome, much about wine in Puglia and Alto Adige, and more. Enjoy and Buon Appetito!
My Choice for This Week's Top 10 Italian Food Recipes from Around the Web:
Negroni - Paula makes the classic Italian cocktail - Bellalimento
Torta Salata di Zucchine e Carote (Savory Zucchini and Carrot Cake) - Briciole
Zucchini and Garlic Scape Frittata - Italian Food Forever
Pasta con asparagi, pinoli e feta (Pasta with asparagus, pine nuts and feta cheese) - Viaggi e Sapori
Tordelli Versiliesi - A pasta recipe from Tuscany - Tuscanycious
Oven Roasted Tomato and Onion Pasta - Aroma Cucina
Shrimp Risotto - Chef Chuck's Cucina
Fegatini di Pollo e Polenta (Chicken Livers and Polenta) - The Saucy Chef
Cherry and Ricotta Ice Cream - Life in Abruzzo
Crostata di Frutta e Frangipane al Pistacchio - Volevo Fare lo Chef (in Italian)
Eating Italy:
Italian Cuisine Thrives Under the Sicilian Sun - NPR
Naples: Must-Sees and See What Happens - New York Times
Anatra Grassa: Newish Restaurant in Rome - Elizabeth Minchilli in Rome
Slow Food on the Amalfi Coast - Bellavventura
Vestri for Chocolate and Gelato Lovers - Panini Girl
Best Gelato and Best-Kept Secret in Rome - A peak inside I Caruso - Revealed Rome
Tips for Tipping in Italy - Parla Food
Fare la Scarpetta (Licking the Plate Clean) - Under the Tuscan Gun
Panella: Almost of Century of Bread - A look inside almost century-old bakery, and so much more, in Rome - Tavole Romane (The link I provided is the one translated into English by Google)
Eggplant Lasagne with 3-tomato sauce in Puglia - Jeremy shares more of his food finds in Puglia - DoBianchi
Salumi Therapy anyone? A Mortadella facial? - A Spa Unlike Any Other: The Rise of Cured Meat Therapy - The Atlantic
Discovering the Lesser Known Wonders of Italian Wine - ANSA
Farinata - Anna shares a little information and history on this Ligurian staple - Italian Notebook
Ageing Wine to Music in Puglia and A Foretaste to Puglia - Jancis Robinson
From Piemonte to Puglia's "Radici del Sud" Tasting of Southern Italian Wines - Berry's Wine Blog
Garantito IGP: Gewurztraminer from Alto Adige - Not Just for Italians - Kyle Phillips Italian Wine Review
Beginning last Sunday in Vico Equense, on the Bay of Naples, there were two food festivals, Festa a Vico (June 5-7) and A' Pizza (June 8). The first brought out 150 of the hottest chefs in Italy, and the second had "the best pizzaioli in all the world." (I'll be on the lookout for both of these feste in 2012!) Many Italian journalists and bloggers attendend and recounted the festivities on their sites. Below are links to some of the recaps. All except Parla Food's are in Italian, but the mouthwatering photos in each post speak a universal language. (I would also suggest translating the text, if you don't read Italian, because there is great information, along with individual perspectives on the festivities, in each of the write ups.)
Festa a Vico, 150 Chefs Converge on the Bay of Naples - Parla Food
Il Racconto della Festa della Pizza - Paperogiallo (There are addresses at the bottom of the post for all the pizzerie of the pizzaioli who attended the event.)
Festa a Vico 2011 - 15 articles covering the festa - Scattidigusto
Festa a Vico Quest' Anno - Tzatziki a Colazione
Pizze a Confronto per la Gazzetta Gastronomica del duo Bonilli-Cortese - Scattidigusto
La Pizza in Riva al Mare - ArteTeca's Kitchen
Upcoming Food and Wine Festivals in Italy:
Degustando Pisa 2011 - June 1 to 30 - Pisa - Throughout the month participating restaurants in Pisa are participating in the event, offering special fixed-price degustando menus with traditional Pisan dishes
Melodia del Vino - June 28 to July 8 - Festival where Tuscan wines and classical music meet - Various locations in Tuscany (For a description of the Melodia del Vino festival in English - Tuscanycious)
Barolo Night 2011 - July 23 - The town La Morra, in the Piedmont region, celebrates the king of wines - Barolo - with a progressive dinner in four locations, showcasing La Morra cuisine with a wine pairing.
Sagra della Porchetta di Arricia - September 4 - The town Arricia, near Rome, most famous for the roasted suckling pig starts porchetta celebrations on the first Sunday in Septmeber
Slow Food Cheese - September 16 to 19 - Bra, the home of the Slow Food Headquarters - An cheese festival that originally highlighted only local cheeses, now is an international affair celebrating artisanl cheesemaking - the site is still under construction
CousCous Festival - September 20 - 25 - San Vito Lo Capo, Sicily
EuroChocolate - October 14 to 23 - Perugia - The biggest chocolate festival in Italy
Related Posts:
Pizza Lover's Odyssey in Naples
Pizza al Taglio at Pizzarium in Rome
Classic Salentino Cuisine Reinvented at Sette di Sette in Lecce
Salento Style Lunch at Cantine Menhir
Wine Tasting in Tuscany - Along the Chianti Trail
Roman Pasta Dishes and Ten Places to Eat Them in Rome
On seeing the facade of Lecce's Basilica Santa Croce, the Marchese Grimaldi said it made him think that a lunatic was having a nightmare. It's too whimsical and merry to make me think of nightmares. Instead the extravagence and frivolity of it had me wondering what kind of happy hallucinogenics those artists were taking, and hey, could I get some. I think the facade has every kind of flower, leaf, garland, fruit, vegetable, cherub and animal known to man.
Rose window and column of the Basilica Santa Croce facade
Leccese Baroque inside the Basilica
This elaborate ornamentaion also adorns other churches, building facades, courtyards, terraces and windows throughout Lecce's historic center. The style is the city's own, called barocco Leccese (Baroque Leccese) and carved from the local stone, pietra Leccese. The stone begins as a soft mass and hardens with time, making it easy to carve into intricate decorations.
One of the many Baroque courtyards in the city
During my visit, I spent most of my mornings wandering and wondering through the streets and piazze of this outdoor Baroque museum. I'd imagine the stories and fantasies behind each whimsical carving. Lecce, the capital of its province commonly called Salento, was my base from which I explored this most southern region in Puglia, and the bottom point of Italy's heel. The mornings were relatively quiet in the historic center, but at Noon it's a different story. Opera music rings out in Piazza Sant' Oronzo, alerting everyone to get out in the piazza and drink; it's aperitivo time! The cafes that line the piazza and its side streets fill up with those meeting for a before-lunch drink.
As it is a great meeting place and the social center for many of Lecce's festivals and festivities, the piazza is bustling at night. Calling back to Lecce's Roman era and the first century, are the remains of the city's Roman Amphitheater. A little less than half of the theater has been uncovered. The rest remains hidden underneath the piazza. The column in the center of the piazza is one of two from Brindisi, which marked the end of the Appian Way. There's still some dispute as to whether Brindisi gave the column to Lecce or whether Lecce took it. Atop the column is a statue of Lecce's patron saint, Sant' Oronzo, who is credited for saving the city from the plague in 1656. Every August, the city holds a celebration in his honor.
One can easily stroll through the entire historic center in a day. The other Baroque beauty not to be missed on your walk through Lecce is the Piazza Duomo, and the Duomo itself and its bell tower. Also spectacular is the Church of Santa Chiara with another ornate facade and a famous ceiling made of papier mache.
Other things to see beyond the Baroque is the Villa Comunale. The lush gardens are a perfect place to have a picnic or sit and rest your feet. You can visit the cartapesta museum and the many cartapesta shops that dot the historic center's streets. Some even offer lessons in this centuries-old tradition. Wine bars and pubs fill both the historic center and newer city center (it encircles the historic center). Lecce has a vibrant and nightlife, yet one with a very casual feel. Definitely a city, but a small one with a population of around 100,000 people. All the locals seem to be friends with each other.
Lecce and the entire Salento region are still very much one of Italy's best kept secrets. In July and August, Italians, and some Europeans, flock to Salento's long and curving coastline to bask on the sun-drenched sand beaches. The other months are ideal for a less crowded visit to the area. Even warmer and more welcoming than its climate, and as playful and festive as the barocco Leccese, are the people of the Salento region. Every person I met proudly and enthusiastically showed me a little bit of his or her land. And, how can you not love a city that announces Noon-time happy hour with arias in the piazza?
Some places to eat:
Locanda Rivoli - Via Augusto Imperatore 13 - phone: +39 0832 1830128: In the historic center, just around the corner from Piazza Sant' Oronzo, this trattoria serves up traditional Salento cuisine and homemade desserts.
Joyce Pub - Via Matteo da Lecce 5 - phone: +39 0832 279443: Part Irish pub part vineria, they serve up classic Salento cuisine. Also, it is possibly the only restaurant open in the historic center on Mondays. You'll find it a short walk from both the Basilica Santa Croce and Piazza Sant' Oronzo.
Bar Sette di Sette - Galleria Piazza Mazzini, Via Oberdan 13 A/B: Located in the newer city center, Chef Paola puts a creative twist on traditional Salento cuisine. They offer a "Happy Hour" buffet where you can nibble on traditional dishes in finger food portions. The buffet is included with a cocktail purchase. Cocktails range from 6 to 8 euros. Lunch is also served daily.
Le Zie - Via Colonnello Archimede Costadura 19 - phone: +39 0832 245178: The "aunts" serve up traditonal fare with a home-cooking feel.
Pizzeria La Perla - Via Giovanni Antonio Orsini De Balzo 15 - phone: +39 0832 246380: If pizza is what you're craving, this is the place to go. The pizza is thin and crispy and toppings are generous.
To satisfy a sweet tooth:
Pasticceria Luca Capilungo - via Bari 7: For the ultimate in Leccese pastries, especially the pasticciotto, and other sweet specialties from Lecce's top pastry chef.
Bar Cin Cin - Piazza Sant' Oronzo: The second pastry shop of Luca Capilungo, this pasticceria is in the historic center, serving chef Luca's pastries and gelato.
Caffe Alvino - Piazza Sant' Oronzo: Another pastry shop in the historic center's piazza to find pastries and gelato
Where to Stay:
Chiesa Greca Bed & Breakfast - Piazzetta Chiesa Greca 11 - phone; +39 0832 302330. This B&B was once part of the Greek Church, which is still there beside the B&B, and dates back to the 1300s. They have 5 charming and spacious suites, where you sleep under ancient Leccese walls with all the modern comforts. My room, "La Chiesetta," still had the remains of one of the church's frescoes. I stayed at the Chiesa Greca Bed & Breakfast as a guest of YL Tours Congressi.
Chiesa Greca in Lecce (the B&B Chiesa Greca is behind it)
Remains of a fresco and the living room in the Chiesetta Suite
Getting there and around:
By train: You can reach Lecce easily by Rome, Naples and Bari on Italy's high-speed Frecce trains.
By plane: From many Italian and European cities, you can find low fares with the low-cost airlines (i.e. EasyJet and Ryan Air) flying into the Brindisi Airport or Bari Airport. From there, you would drive or take a train into Lecce.
Getting around in Salento: It is best to have a car. The roads are tranquil and easy to drive. Trains in the Salento region aren't a feasible way of getting from one town to another. During the summer months, SalentoinBus provides quicker bus transportation from Lecce to many of the region's coastal cities, like Otranto, Gallipoli, and Santa Maria Leuca and more.
*Join me in Puglia in 2012 on a Food and Wine Lover's Culinary Journey
Related Posts:
The Art of Making Pasta by Hand: A Lesson in Pugliese Pasta from Nonna Vata
Cheese of Puglia: Making and Eating Fresh Cheese in Salento
Lunch Salento Style at Cantine Menhir
The Pastries of Lecce with Chef Luca Capilungo
Classic Salentino Cuisine Reinvented - Sette di Sette in Lecce
Pugliese Pasta: Sagne Ncannulate with Schiattariciati Tomato Sauce
The Dish from Lecce: Rustico Leccese
Travel itself is an indulgence, and I know I'm very lucky to be able to travel as frequently as I do. When I'm home, however, my life is tightly budgeted to keep myself in plane tickets and hotel rooms. Forget about designer wear and handbags. Do you know how many days in Italy or France one Louis Vutton bag or pair of Prada shoes would cost me? Instead, most of the time I walk around looking like a candidate for "What Not To Wear," while planning my next journey. (One of my former students actually nominated me so many times for the show that they sent her a cease and desist email!)
During my travels, I do have a few indulgences I give into. Being the food lover that I am, these involve food. I'm happy to stay in a less expensive hotel, so I can spend more on food. These indulgences include dining at a Michelin-starred restaurant, finding underground supper clubs, planning a trip around a chocolate festival, and taking cooking classes. I also almost always make a detour to Paris especially to eat pastries buy pastry supplies. Said trip to Paris not only includes copious amounts of pastries, but also stops to Mora, E. Dehillerin and Detou for pastry supplies and ingredients that are hard to get at home. My real obsession indulgence, however, actually comes in the form of cookbooks. Yes, I buy at least one cookbook in every city I visit.
Cookbooks aren't the lightest of things, either. Schlepping them around isn't easy, especially when you buy as many as I do. I mail them home as I go. Whatever money I've saved on airfare quickly goes out the proverbial window at La Poste. But, when those books arrive at my home, I'm traveling all over again. I rip through the packages like a child at Christmas, quickly getting to the good stuff. On each page is a memory of something I've tasted, a place I've visited, and/or someone with whom I've shared a meal.
Cookbooks from various regions in France
During my recent travels, my cookbook purchases included a Neapolitan/Amalfi Coast pastry cookbook, a chocolate pastry cookbook from Librarie Gourmande in Paris (that place is a crack house for the cookbook addict), and an old Venetian cookbook, in Venetian dialect (as if reading Italian wasn't hard enough). Monica suggested the Venetian cookbook and promised to help me with the translation. (Uhm, I know I'll be taking her up on that promise.) In Salento, Antonella, the owner of the trattoria Locanda Rivoli, gave me a small Salento cookbook. As I looked through the book, instinctively I did a little happy dance to the amusement of those around me. None of them knew of my obsession with foreign cookbooks, so my joy from the gift surprised them. Now, the secret is out. Yes, my name is Kathy and I'm a chocoholic and a foreign cookbook addict.....and happy to declare both!
My most recent Neapolitan pastry cookbook: "Dolci del Sole" by Salvatore de Riso
Inside my most treasured cookbook: "ph10" by Pierre Herme
This is the first in a series of blog carnivals, “Across the Café Table" with the Travel Belles. Once a month, Margo from The Travel Belles, will ask a travel-related question. We who participate will then share our answers “across the virtual café table,” on our own blogs, adding a link to the Travel Belles post and also link to our post at the end of Margo's post on the Travel Belles' site. Everyone is welcome to participate. As Margo says, "Grab a beverage and pull up a chair – there’s always plenty of room!" Why don't you head on over there now, and check out what others' travel indulgences are.
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How do you indulge when you travel?
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Related Posts:
The Art of Making Pasta by Hand: A Pugliese Pasta Lesson with Nonna Vata
French Pastries and 10 Top Patisseries in Paris
Cheese of Puglia: Making Fresh Cheese in Salento
Dining Around Napoli with Napoli Unplugged
Scenes from CioccolaTo - Turin's Chocolate Festival
Mini Macarons and Ice Cream from LaDuree
Easter Chocolates in Paris Windows
A Night at L'Atelier Joel Robuchon
Dining at the Hidden Kitchen in Paris
This week's Italy on a Plate is full of regional and seasonal cuisine from the boot; baccala from Venice, pasta dishes from Abruzzo and Naples, mussels from Liguria, and a cherry cake from Puglia, just to name a few. In Eating Italy, travel by food to to Italy. First an Italian mamma gives cooking lessons, then suggestions for pairing Sicilian wines with Sicilian food, much about food and wine from Puglia and Rome -- along with gelaterie favorites in Rome, and also gelato in Turin. Enjoy and Buon Appetito!
My Choice for This Week's Top 10 Italian Food Recipes from Around the Web:
Baccala Mantecato e Polenta Bianca - A Venetian dish from the piece "Biennale e Baccala" - The Florentine
Focaccia - The Panini Girl
Maccheroni alla Molinara Domus: A Loopy Pasta with a Long Little-Known History - Domenica for The Washington Post
Linguine allo Scoglio al Cartoccio (Seafood Linguine in a "package") - Cime di Rapa (video recipe in Italian)
Mafalde with Roasted Tomatoes - Jul's Kitchen
Stinging Nettle Tortellini - Emiko Davies
The Neapolitan dish: Pasta e Fagioli con le Cozze (Pasta and Beans with Mussels) - Napoli Unplugged
Stuffed Mussels from Liguria - Little Paradiso
Semolina alla Ciliegia (Cherry Cake) and a story about the favorite Ferrovia cherries from Puglia - Charming Italy
Angelina's Pizza Dolce - Memorie di Angelina
Eating Italy:
Italian Food Tastes Better: How to Cook Like an Italian Mamma - HiP Paris Blog
Sicilian Wine Pairings with Sicilian Cuisine - The Sicilian Cuisine Blog
A Slice of History: Pizza Where They Say it All Began - A pizza experience in Naples - Carbonara's Blog
Jeremy is posting like crazy from Puglia - Here are just a few from the week: Ciceri e Tria ai Frutti di Mare and An Incredible Meal at Le Zie in Lecce and from his Italian grape name appellation pronunciation project, a Pugliese Wine: Primitivo (two ways) - Do Bianchi
A Feast of Flavors in Italy - A Taste of the Piedmont region - The Independent
Our Angelo in Cucina - Sicilian cuisine with Angelo of Foresteria Planeta - Over a Tuscan Stove
Making Pizza with Bonci at Tricolore in Rome - Gina Tringali
Role Call: Gelato in Rome - Roundup of Rome foodies' favorites for gelato in Rome - NileGuide Rome
Puglia: A tate from Italy's Heel - Charles Scicolone on Wine
Tour del Gelato: Cioccogelateria Venchi in Turin - Turin Love
VitignoItalia 2011 - Report from the recent VitignoItalia Wine festival in Napoli - Napoli Unplugged
Eating in a 15th Century Cloister - Elizabeth Minchilli in Rome
Sicilian Taralli - Sicily Guide
The Secrets of Rome - Food Secrets in Rome shared, well kind of - Everywhereist
Upcoming Food and Wine Festivals in Italy:
Degustando Pisa 2011 - June 1 to 30 - Pisa - Throughout the month participating restaurants in Pisa are participating in the event, offering special fixed-price degustando menus with traditional Pisan dishes
Melodia del Vino - June 28 to July 8 - Festival where Tuscan wines and classical music meet - Various locations in Tuscany (For a description of the Melodia del Vino festival in English - Tuscanycious)
Barolo Night 2011 - July 23 - The town La Morra, in the Piedmont region, celebrates the king of wines - Barolo - with a progressive dinner in four locations, showcasing La Morra cuisine with a wine pairing.
Sagra della Porchetta di Arricia - September 4 - The town Arricia, near Rome, most famous for the roasted suckling pig starts porchetta celebrations on the first Sunday in Septmeber
Slow Food Cheese - September 16 to 19 - Bra, the home of the Slow Food Headquarters - An cheese festival that originally highlighted only local cheeses, now is an international affair celebrating artisanl cheesemaking - the site is still under construction
CousCous Festival - September 20 - 25 - San Vito Lo Capo, Sicily
EuroChocolate - October 14 to 23 - Perugia - The biggest chocolate festival in Italy
Related Posts:
A Salento Style Lunch at Cantine Menhir
Tour of Masseria L'Astore and a Frantoio Ipogeo (ancinet underground oil mill) in Salento
Pizza al Taglio at Pizzarium in Rome
Pizza Lover's Odyssey in Naples
Journey through the Pastries of Napoli
The Pastries of Lecce with Pastry Chef Luca Capilungo
Seven Sensational Gelaterie in Turin
Caramel Gelato Recipe and Favorite Gelaterie in Rome
Torta Caprese - Flourless Chocolate Cake from Capri
A Morning at the Rialto Market in Venice


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