Although I wasn't officially invited, the very kind family of Masseria La Greca allowed me to crash their daughter Beatrice's wedding in Salento. Part Sardinian on the bride's side, and part Salentino on the groom's, this wedding not only brought together two families from different regions of Italy but also two wedding tradtions. With explanations and translations both from my friend Ylenia and Rosalba (the bride's aunt who came from Sardinia and was clearly in charge of keeping traditions in tact), I got an inside look at a wedding in Puglia. Big, boisterous, food-focussed and one that carried on centuries-old traditions, this wedding was molto Italiano, or should I say, Italianissimo!
Pre wedding preparations and photos ~ with the bridesmaids looking on
We arrived at the house of the bride's parents. The white stone home was decorated inside and out with red ribbons & roses and white tulle, which also flowed from doorways and banisters. The house was abuzz with women bustling from one room to another, and hairdressers, photographers, and videographers doting on the bride. In one room the scent of roses dominated the senses; in another it was hairspray. The main room of the house looked somewhat like a photography studio with bright lights and photographers capturing every movement of the bride. The bride, Beatrice, was radiant and covered from head to toe in white and red, with roses and baby's breath pinned in her hair and encircling her updo.
On a large table in the center of the main room, red and white decorated baskets filled with Salentine and Sardinian foods filled the table. The bounty included cheese from the family's masseria, Pugliese wine, salami, Sardinian cookies, a basket overflowing with seasonal fruits. Ylenia explained that these were part of the offering to the church. The wedding procession would carry these into the church. After the ceremony, they would leave them at the altar. (In my opinon, this food offering would increase the blessing the couple received from the church, even more than the fee would.)
Beatrice's mother and father, Maria & Alberto with the "flower children" ~ Aunt Rosalba with the pagetti
The wedding party also kept with Italian tradition. What we in the U.S. would call bridesmaids, are known as le damigelle. They're traditionally the bride's female cousins. There was no "made-of-honor" either. Instead all three equally helped the bride during her day and stood alongside her at the ceremony. Then there were the children of the wedding party, i pagetti. These "flower children" are ALL the nieces and nephews of the bride. As adorable as they were, it was almost impossible getting the three little pagetti to pose for a single photo. Imagine if you were the youngest of a huge Italian family and your wedding had pagetti numbering in double digits? Just thinking of corralling these kids into all of a wedding's formalities made me laugh. And, oh the drama if the nieces and nephews were brats and/or didn't like each other! Luckily these three were very loving towards each other. Besides a few photo mishaps, everything went smoothly. Ylenia told me she has seen weddings where there have been 10 or more pagetti!
The only drama in this wedding came when everyone was being a little too loud. Beatrice's Aunt Rosalba settled that. "Silenzio!" She declared, and everyone - parents, children, and even the photographers - became silent. Zia Rosalba organized everyone into a line and the wedding procession began, yes, at the house. First to leave were everyone not in the wedding party. Then the flower children followed; then the bride's maids. Finally, before the parents left, they gave their daughter a blessing and exited. The bride exited alone, one last time as a single woman. Once Beatrice was outside, Aunt Rosalba broke a plate, and we threw its contents in the bride's direction, and off she went to the church.
Il grano per portare l’abbondanza
Il sale per portare la sapienza
I petali per portare la tenerezza
le caramelle per portare la dolcezza
I soldi per portare la ricchezza
Breaking the Plate ~ Rosalba explained the symbolism of the Sardinian tradition of breaking the plate. In Italian it sounded even more poetic, so I've rewritten it above in the way I heard her explain it.
The plate is full of five items: grains (symbolizing abundance), salt (symbolizing wisdom), rose petals (symbolizing tenderness), candy (symbolizing sweetness), and money (symbolizing richness). Sardinian tradition says you break the plate and throw its contents onto the bride and groom. By emptying the plate and throwing its contents, you symbolically pass these same qualities (abundance, wisdom, tenderness, sweetness and richness) onto the bride and groom and their life as a married couple.
The ritual of breaking the plate occurs three times during the day. The first happens right before the bride leaves for the church. The second, as the newly married couple exit the church; and the third, when the couple arrive at the wedding reception.
The newly married couple, Beatrice & Leonardo, receiving their final plate-breaking good wishes
The reception was held at the Masseria San Lorenzo just a few kilometers from Lecce's city center. This masseria, dating back from the 16th century, now hosts events, receptions and parties. The lush grounds are filled with olive, palm and pomegranate trees, and the building has been restored with Leccese Stone from the masseria's own quarry.
Before everyone sat down to a formal four-course, fish-filled Salentine meal, we munched on fresh shellfish, bombette (grilled meat rolls ~ so popular I could only get one quick photo before they were snatched up), fried fish, and plates of finger foods.
I'm certainly grateful I was able to be a wedding crasher at this wedding. A huge grazie di cuore to Beatrice and Leonardo, Beatrice's parents - Maria and Alberto, for letting me join in the celebration, to Rosalba for taking time out to explain the Sardinian wedding traditions, and to the entire wedding party for making me feel so welcome!
Even if you don't live in Puglia but would like to get married there, Ylenia provides wedding planning services for weddings in Puglia. She might even supply the plates.
Join me and cook in Puglia in 2012! - Food and Wine Lover's Journey in Puglia
Masseria La Greca (Part of Campagna Amica - bringing local producers and consumers together)
S.P. 298 Lecce - San Cataldo
Localita’ San Cataldo
71300 Lecce
Phone: +39 0832 315 802
Masseria San Lorenzo
Via Francesco Flora, 1
73100 Lecce
Phone: +39 333 333 6045
Related Posts:
Lunch Salento Style at Cantine Menhir
Tour of L'Astore Masseria and its Frantoio Ipogeo (Ancient Underground Olive Mill)
Photo Tour of Lecce: The Baroque Beauty of Puglia
Classic Salentino Cuisine Reinvented at Bar Sette di Sette in Lecce
Art of Making Pasta by Hand: Pugliese Pasta Lesson with Nonna Vata
The Pastries of Lecce with Pastry Chef Luca Capilungo
Cheese of Puglia: Making and Eating Fresh Cheese in Salento
The Dish From Puglia: Ricci di Mare (sea urchins) from Porto Badisco
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Madonna!! That is really extravagant. I remember those good Italian weddings we used to go to ... no one has them here any more. My next wedding is going to be just like this one. (Ha!)
Posted by: Paula | November 25, 2011 at 06:41 PM
Wow, what a day! The bride looks so beautiful and I loved reading about the traditions - must have been so interesting seeing the mix of the 2 different regions. Plus, look at that spread! I would love to go to an Italian wedding, what a party :)
Posted by: Tuula | November 26, 2011 at 12:08 AM
Fantastic story and photos. Thanks for sharing.
Posted by: Italian Notes | November 26, 2011 at 02:26 AM
A strikingly original dress!
Posted by: Rosa | November 26, 2011 at 08:02 AM
Awesome. From your description of the day, it seems like a was a fabulous one. From the food to the people, they all seem happy.
Posted by: towel warmer | November 26, 2011 at 11:03 PM
Paula - Yes, it was a huge celebration. If your "next" wedding is going to be like this, I sure hope I get an invitation - or am allowed to crash it ;)
Tuula - It was an awesome day, one of many I had while in Salento. That pre-dinner spread was a full meal in itself.
Italian Notes - Thank you, I'm glad you liked the story.
Rosa - I agree, the dress was quite striking. Something tells me it fit the bride's personality well. One thing I should have mentioned in the post is that the dress was one of the very few things that did not follow tradition - as wedding dresses are traditionally white.
Posted by: Kathy | November 28, 2011 at 08:14 AM
Love the bridal gown! So unique and lovely!
Posted by: Wedding Photography | May 06, 2012 at 05:33 PM