Food Lover's Odyssey: Bordeaux

February 11, 2012

France Roundtable: 10 Places for Romantic Vacations in France

Welcome to the third installment of the monthly France Blogging Roundtable, a project organized by Christine Cantera of WhyGo France. The group includes Christine and four others of us who blog about France: Jennifer of Chez Lou Lou, Jamie of Life's a Feast, EuroCheapo, and me. Each month we'll share our unique perspectives on a predetermined topic about France. So pull up a chair to our Roundtable, have a croissant or an eclair, and join in on the conversation. We'd love to hear your take on each month's topic and your comments. This month's topic: Romance in France

What makes a place romantic? I think the criteria is somewhat subjective. What's important to me is to be surrounded by water, preferably the sea. A river, lake, canal or pretty fountains will do, too. Some might want cold and snow to cuddle, but I want warmer ambiance; green vineyards, hills, rugged cliffs, quaint little villages, maybe a castle or two, sidewalk cafes with wicker chairs, lush gardens and parks with ideal spots for picnics. Promenades that invite walking arm-in-arm are necesary, too. Basically, I want my idea of a picturesque setting, one that encourages amorous feelings.

Right now you might be thinking that I want WAY too much. Not true, because when it comes to romantic settings, France really has all this and more.

Today I'm suggesting 9 spots in France for romantic vacations. For the 10th, I want to hear your opinion and am leaving it up to you to decide. My 9 choices may seem completely random, but they do have several common threads; the first being water. They each also live up to my above-mentioned list of criteria. That and, except for the last city on my list, on all my visits to these places I've been without a date! Each time I've been to one of these romantic spots its been with groups of friends, my parents, or with nobody else except my camera to keep me company. Really, Cupid, you need to get better aim with that arrow. So these cities are on what you might call my "bucket list for romantic vacations." (Hey Cupid, are you listening?)

Bordeaux

Vineyards and majestic wine houses sprawl out along both sides of the Gironde river. An ideal lovers' vacation includes a cozy room surrounded by grapevines. Visits to wine houses and wine tastings include scenic drives through the various wine regions of Bordeaux. Wines in this region are not only for wine snobs and the elite. No, there is a wine chateau and wine for everyone to enjoy. Make an appointment for a tour beforehand and you should have no problems. The Bordeaux tourist office, one of the most efficient and informative I've seen, also provides tours and they help with setting up independent visits. A great time to visit is during the Fete le Vin held bi-annually on the banks of the Gironde River in the city of Bordeaux. This year, 2012, the wine festival will be held June 28 to July 1.

Cahors

The medieval bridge: Ponte Valentre over the Lot River

A few years ago, I spent a month in the Dordogne region getting to know its food and its photographic villages. Cahors was extra special. I love the way the Lot River wraps itself like a horseshoe around three quarters of the city center to give you the feeling you're on an island. Lively Boulevard Gambetta, the main street of the town, reminded me of a mini Cours Mirabeau. Like the famous street in Aix-en-Provence, sidewalk cafes, shops and trees filled both sides of the street. Take a boat ride around Cahors or a balloon ride over it. There is a mostly shaded walking path along the river bank. Like the river, the path curves around the town. The green grass invites you to stop and have a picnic along the trail. Cahors is known for its "black wine" and there are around 200 wines with the label. The Malbec grape makes the strong dark wine of the region. Drives surrouned by vineyards, winery visits and tastings can easily be part of a trip here, too.

Sarlat

Also in the Dordogne, the medieval village of Sarlat makes for a nice base to explore the region. Cobblestone streets, turreted buildings and small winding alleyways allow for hand-in-hand strolls, especially at night. Market days are Wednesday and Saturdays. Then you can pick up picnic fare for your drive along the Dordogne river. Majestic castles span the hilltops that flank both sides of the river. Boat rides in the historic gabares (17th & 18th century boats of the region) are my choice for seeing the Dordogne. Or take a dreamy drive through the valley where tiny medieval villages pop up along the countryside. It seems each village has its own castle, too. The pristinely pruned Gardens of Marqueyssac are nearby and also a good choice for a lovers' stroll.

Aix-en-Provence

Rotunda Fountain at the entrance to the Cours Mirabeau in Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence just might be my favorite Provencal town. Fountains and flowing water are everywhere. The tree-lined Cours Mirabeau has one sidewalk cafe after another. The place to sit under the plane trees and enjoy the scenery. Take a walk along one of the pedestrian streets that splinter off from Cours Mirabeau. Or enjoy a couples' spa day. Aix has many spas fed by the natural themal springs that flow under the city. These springs have been soothing aches and pains all the way back to Roman times. During the summer months, you can see lavender fields forever with a ride along the Lavender Trail of Provence - Les Routes de la Lavande.

Sanary-sur-Mer

This sleepy seaside town in the southeast of Provence is far off the tourist radar, but that only makes a more enjoyable to hideaway with the one you love. With a daily provencal market right at the port and cafes that look out into the Mediterrenean, I instantly fell in love with this village during my visit with Tuula and her husband. The lively market is open daily. The water is a deep blue. The cafes are perfectly placed to look out on the harbor and the sea. There is a small beach nearby and the village has several pastry and other shops to make it an ideal spot for an amorous and relaxing seaside vacation.

Cassis

Cassis is another cozy seaside village of Provence. It too has cafes that follow the curve of the harbor. In them you can enjoy the views of the sea and the bounty of this fishing village, generous seafood platters especially made for two. The main attraction are the Calanques (the steep limestone walled inlets). Take a boat ride to the Calanques and then a moonlit walk around the harbor.

Strasbourg

Named an Unesco World Heritage Site, the main island (Grande Ile) is arguably the most beautiful part of Strasbourg. Half-timbered houses with flower box windows, canals, and cafes that border the canals all add to the special ambiance in Strasbourg. As the city is very near the German border, the German influences are evident, especially in the food. Pretzels sit stacked on tables. Sausae & choucroute (French for the Alsatian name for saurkraut- surkrut) and foie gras sit side-by-side on restaurant menus. Enjoy any or all of these dishes at one of the cafes along the canal. In the evening when the moon and the street lights dance on the water's surface, the romantic mood is even stronger.

Nice

If the blue Mediterrenean, seaside strolls, and awe-inspiring hilltop views are part of your requirements for a romantic setting, Nice should be on your list, too. The Promenade des Anglais that curves with Nice's Bay of Angels is lovely for a stroll day or night. As is the pedestrian only Old Nice (Vieux Nice). A picnic, with food from the Cours Saleya, atop Castle Hill will give you a view just like that in the photo above. From Nice, the other cities and villages of the French Riviera (Cannes, Monaco, Antibes, Eze and more) are easily accesible by train. Cuddle together while enjoying a train ride along the coast. If your more adventurous, take a drive along the one of the three corniches along the Riviera coast. Old Nice, one of my favorite areas in the city day or night, is full of sidewalk cafes and cozy bars.

Paris

Although I have had a date or two in the city I once called home, I would never leave the city of love and lights off the list. Paris has everything required for a romantic setting: the Seine River, the lights, bridges, canals, sidewalk cafes, an endless number of parks and outdoor markets to pick up picnic fare, tree-lined grand boulevards and cozy alleys.

Along the Seine and the Canal St. Martin would be my top two picks for a stroll, especially at dusk, but an evening walk anywhere in Paris is tres romantique. A picnic for two is a must. What's in my picnic basket? A baguette, cheese, wine and, of course, Parisian pastries. You'll find a park on almost every rue, but I would choose the banks of the Seine or under the Eiffel Tower at the Champs de Mars as places to lay my picnic blanket.

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For number 10, I want to hear from you! Where would you go in France for a romantic getaway. What criteria do you use to decide what makes a place "romantic?"

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Check out what the others have to say about romance in France:

Romance in France from WhyGo France

December's Roundtable Topic - Favorite French Art: Art and Chateau Vaux le Vicomte

January's Rountable Topic - French Comfort Food: Favorite French Comfort Food

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November 11, 2010

Flaky Apple Tart - Croustade aux Pommes Inspired by Pavillon de Margaux

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My recent trip to Bordeaux made me nostalgic for the first time I was there. It was about 4 years ago when I was living in Paris. Seven of us took a weekend road trip. We spent the weekend driving around the Medoc, visiting wineries, and having a good time. For all but the one French man in the group, it was our first time there, and everything was new to us. We drove by one grand chateau after another, each hovering over its vineyards like proud yet protective parents. We learned about Bordeaux wines through the stories of each wine maker and saw centuries old wine-making estates. It was a magical weekend both because of what we saw and learned and also because of the company.

Glimpse of the Chateau Margaux through its tree-lined entrance

During this trip, I passed the Pavillon de Margaux, both a bed and breakfast and restaurant, and remembered the lunch we had eaten there. Because Chateau Margaux is closed on the weekends, we were unable to visit. Instead, we had lunch at Pavillion de Margaux. From our lunch table, we could look out the window and see the vineyards of Chateau Margaux.

There are two dining areas, one inside of 19th century decor and the other, an enclosed patio. We chose our lunch from one of the "menu" options. In France a "menu" is a meal option, usually some sort of combination of entree, plat (main dish), and dessert for a fixed price. The actual menu (as we call it in the U.S.) is called la carte. (I'm forever forgetting this. I quickly realize my mistake when I see the waiters' annoyed faces after I've asked for le menu.) At the Pavillon de Margaux, this menu option also included an amuse buche and ended with mignardise (little sweets) of chocolates and a coffee. Not exactly your light lunch. Of course, we shared a bottle (or two - there were 7 of us) of Bordeaux wine. As this region is also part of the "land of duck," my main course was a duck dish. I remember being thoroughly stuffed after this meal, but I also remember the dessert. It was an apple tart that was wrapped up in flaky phyllo dough and looked like a little present on the dish. I had never seen a tart made like that in Paris. The crust and apples were two contrasts in textures. The flaky phyllo was crisp and crunchy against the soft, cooked apples.

After a little research, I found that the tart is popular in the southwest of France, especially around the area of Gascony. Originally the dough was a hand-stretched strudel-like one, but now they use phyllo to make the crusty (croustade) top. As apples are again in season, and Thanksgiving (in the U.S.) is just around the corner, I thought I would recreate this dessert. It's a nice twist to the traditional "apple pie" and was quite easy to recreate. The trickiest thing is mastering phyllo dough, but I have a few notes, after the recipe, to help you. For me this apple tart also brings back memories of my first trip to the Bordeaux region and this last one. More detailed information on the chateaux I visited and the city of Bordeaux will be for another post(s). Until then, I'm sharing a few photos from my recent visit to the Medoc along with this recipe. I hope you try it, and if you do, please let me know what you think of it.

Wine tasting room's terrace

Grounds around the wine estate

Gardens of the Chateau Kirwan

Croustade aux Pommes
Inspired by Pavillon Margaux and adapted from Ma Cuisine Bordelaise by Myriam Daumal

(Makes 4 individual tarts)

5 Granny Smith apples
Scant 1/2 cup vanilla sugar
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon (optional)**
2 tablespoons Armagnac, cognac or brandy

For the crust:
About 12 sheets phyllo dough
1/2 cup clarified butter, melted (see below)
2 teaspoons granulated sugar

Peel, core and slice apples 1/4-inch thin. Mix together the sugar and the cinnamon, if you're using the cinnamon. Add to the apples and stir so that sugar is coating each slice. Add the armagnac and let the apples macerate for one hour. Strain the liquid from the apples.

Preheat an oven to 350 F, line a baking sheet with parchment paper and butter the rim of four 4-inch tart ring molds.

To assemble each tart: Brush a sheet of phyllo with some of the melted butter. Slice the sheet in half so you have two squares (or fat rectangles). Place one of the cut sheets into a mold, and place the other on top perpendicular to the first sheet. Repeat this with another sheet and place in the mold in the same manner. You should have 4 layers of phyllo in the mold. Press the pyhllo down and against the buttered sides. Fill the mold with apples 3/4-inch in height. Take another sheet of phyllo dough and brush it with butter. Slice it in half the same way and place one of the cut sheets on top of the apples, and the second sheet of phyllo on top of it. Fill the mold with more apples about 1/2-inch in height. Fold the excess layers up and over the apples. Fold and/or crinkle the excess edges up and on the top of the tart. Brush the top with the melted butter and sprinkle some of granulated sugar on top. Repeat this procedure for the three remaining tarts. Place into the oven and bake for about 30 minutes, until the phyllo crust is a golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool for 5 minutes before removing the mold. (As long as the phyllo hasn't fallen outside of the ring, you can lift the mold up over the tart.) If the mold can not be lifted up to remove, you can remove it by sliding a four-inch piece of cardboard under the tart, lifting the tart and lifting the tart up from the mold. The tart should be served warm. Dust with powdered sugar. It goes perfectly with both caramel sauce and vanilla bean ice cream. Enjoy!

**Note: The French would probably think it sacrilege that I would add even a pinch of cinnamon to this tart, but I like a little cinnamon with my cooked apples. If you want the true Gascon dessert, leave the cinnamon out.

Clarifying Butter:

Melt the butter on low heat just until it bubbles. Skim the bubbles, which are the impurities in the butter. Let it sit and separate. The water and milk solids will sink to the bottom. You can pour off or ladle off the butter fat that has come to the top, and discard the rest. About 3/4 cup of butter will render 1/2 cup of clarified butter. Using clarified butter with phyllo dough, allows you to have crispier layers of dough as there will be no water/moisture added from the butter.

Working with Phyllo Dough:

Many people hate working with phyllo dough, but with practice you won't think twice about using it. There are a few important things to remember. Defrost it in the refrigerator, not on the counter. When working with it, it's important to keep it moist and work as quickly as possible. To keep it moist, I lay a dry paper towel over the top and place a damp dish towel over the paper towel. The moisture from the dish towel will soak the paper towel a little but not too much. Before I open up the phyllo dough, I have my work area all set up. Then, I am able to work as quickly as possible. Once you've defrosted the phyllo dough, you will need to use all of it. You can make these tarts in advance and freeze them, or you can make various appetizers with them. (A few appetizers suggestions coming soon.)