Christmas Around Italy travels to Puglia today. I'm welcoming my good friend from Lecce, Ylenia, of YL Tours Congressi. I had the pleasure of meeting her this March and met up with her again this fall on my culinary journeys (and more) in Puglia. Her company provides tours in Puglia for the food lover, along with educational, cultural, yoga, and biking tours in her native region, Puglia. Today she's sharing six Christmas sweets you'll find on the table in Salento during the holidays and some beautiful photos of Lecce dressed up for Christmas. Enjoy!
Purceddhruzzi are one of the traditional desserts of Salento. They are small balls of sweet dough fried and crispy. They are then tossed in honey and garnished with pine nuts or almonds or tang colored. (Similar to struffoli in Naples)
Carteddhrate, another variation on fried dough. This a yeast dough is made by mixing flour, the liqueur Strega, orange juice, oil flavored with orange peel. You work the dough for a long time so that it is elastic. It's then rolled out into a thin sheet and cut into strips with a special pastry wheel. Strips obtained with different shapes can be created: twisting each strip can be in on itself, giving the shape of a rose, or cut pieces of 2 × 8 cm and huddle in the middle forming the butterfly. The fried carteddhrate go into a saucepan of warmed honey & water and soak up the honey. At the end of the preparation, they are decorated with pine nuts, cinnamon and sprinkle with colored candies.
Scagliozzi (also known as mostaccioli) biscuits are slightly crunchy outside but soft inside. They are typical of the city of Nardo, diamond-shaped with toasted almonds and various spices including cinnamon. They can be covered with chocolate or white icing sugar.
Cupeta is another delicacy one should taste. It is a nougat with almonds, which comes in the form of long sticks made with caramelized sugar and toasted almonds. It is similar to almond brittle but thicker.
Chinuliddhre are in the form of little calzone, and filled with jam. he most widely used jams for the filling are pear, quince and Negroamaro grape.
Pittule, little doughnuts from Salento, are very famous and sought after by tourists during the Christmas season. Often they are topped with a dusting of sugar or honey, and also eaten for breakfast.
Christmas lights in Piazza del Duomo in Lecce
Join
me in Puglia in 2013! Gifting this trip to yourself or someone special would make for the perfect Christmas gift! For this food lover's culinary tour, we'll be
cooking with our beautiful Italian mamme
and professional chefs. We'll also be eating and exploring our way through
the region. There are four tour dates available from which
to choose! For tour details, check out this page: Culinary Tours in Puglia 2013!
***Early booking discount: Book and pay by check by January 31, 2013 and receive a $200 discount off the tour price.****
*All photos are courtesy of Ylenia and YL Tours Congressi
Christmas Around Italy travels to one of my favorite Italian cities, Napoli! Huge welcome to Bonnie of Napoli Unplugged. Bonnie, an American expat, has been living in and loving Naples for many years. Her love for the city is what inspired her site, Napoli Unplugged. It's the place to go if you want to know "what's on" in Naples. Also, via the site, Bonnie blogs about various escapades and strolls she takes in and around Naples. She also maintains a photo blog where she shares a daily photo from Naples. Even though she does all this, I'm so happy she found time to stop here and share a few Neapolitan Christmas traditions with us. Enjoy!
Christmas. In the immortal words of Andy Williams "It's the most wonderful time of the year." Filled with the joy of the season I am transported to my youth, as visions of snow-covered houses, blazing fires and horse-drawn sleighs dance in my head. Classic Currier and Ives Christmas scenes that are interminably rooted in my DNA.
Of course Christmas in the Mediterranean, Christmas in Napoli is slightly different. It's unlikely we'd ever see a white Christmas (although there was snow on Vesuvius today) and Jack Frost is not likely to be nipping at my nose. And what of the commercial Christmas bling my inner child so desperately craves? Well that has only recently started to creep onto the scene.
But Christmas in Naples is every bit as magical as the Currier and Ives pictures I have in my mind. And perhaps more so, because time-honored traditions remain the star, while everything else is just trimming on the tree. The tree, which by the way only plays a supporting role to the world-renowned Presepe Napoletano, the Neapolitan Christmas Nativity.
A centuries old tradition, by early December Neapolitan Presepe collections are on display all over the city. There are so many in fact, that I've made an annual treasure hunt out of trying to find them all. They are in every Neapolitan home, most of the city's churches, on display in all variety of public buildings, and there are permanent displays like those at San Martino and Santa Chiara.
Presipio Napoletano
And of course, along Via San Gregorio Armeno, Naples premier Christmas Market, where you'll find everything to create your own Nativity Scene. Open year round, during the holiday season tourists flock in from all over the world just for the chance to wander this magical Christmas alley.
Not far from San Gregorio Armeno, is Porta Nolana, Naples second most important Christmas Market. But don't head there expecting to find mulled wine, Christmas ornaments or nut crackers. This isn't a Christmas market in the traditional sense. Home to the freshest seafood in town, it is THE place to stock up on everything you need to make the traditional Cena della Vigilia di Natale, the Neapolitan Christmas Eve dinner.
The live clams, le vongole veraci for the Vermicelli or Spaghetti alle Vongole that is served as the primo piatto.
The salt cod, il baccalà, served fried, in vapore or baked as the secondo.
And the obligatory Christmas Eel, il capitone. Definitely an acquired taste, it is typically fried and seems to find its way onto the Christmas Eve table whether it is eaten or not.
You can also find fresh cauliflower, le papaccelle, hot peppers conserved in vinegar and olives for the Insalata di Rinforzo.
But if it's Neapolitan Christmas sweets you are in search of, you will either have to make them yourself or do like most Neapolitans do these days, pick them up at a Pasticceria. What to buy? Honey soaked Struffoli, chocolate dipped Mustaccioli, nutty and crispy Roccocò, and the S-shaped Susamielli.
There are other Neapolitan Christmas traditions to be sure. Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve and Minestra Maritata for the Christmas Day lunch. Gli Zampognari, bag pipers who magically arrive in December to entertain the residents of the city for a bit of food or change. Tombola, a game played during the holidays that is similar to bingo, except it uses the numbers from 1 through 90, and each has a meaning based on La Smorfia Napoletana.
And of course the one universal tradition of the season, sharing the holiday with friends and family.
From our home in Napoli to yours wherever you may be, Merry Christmas to all and to all a Very Happy New Year!
*All photos in this post are courtesy of Napoli Unplugged
Continuing with our Christmas Around Italy guest post series, today we welcome Monica Cesarato from Venice! I had the pleasure of meeting Monica, a Venetian, last March during Carnival and taking a personal food walk with her. Monica blogs about Venice and owns and runs the Faronhof Bed and Breakfast, just outside of Venice. She also is one of the two people who run Cook in Venice, where they offer food tours in Venice and Venetian cooking courses, specializing in traditional dishes of Venice and the region. Today Monica is sharing a typical Venetian Christmas Dinner, the dishes that make up the dinner and the traditions behind them. Enjoy!
Snowy Saint Mark's Square
Have you ever wondered what Venetians eat traditionally for Christmas?
Julia Child said: “You don't have to cook fancy or complicated masterpieces - just good food from fresh ingredients.” This typifies Venetian cooking: simple fresh ingredients enriched by herbs and spices, turning a simple uncomplicated recipe into a sublime dish. This is usually what appears in both the Grand Canal palaces and the normal houses of people living in Venice and in the Veneto region during the festive season!
Murano Glass Christmas Tree
Since the 15th century the Catholic Church has set a big distinction on what you are usually allowed to eat on Christmas Eve and what you should eat on Christmas day. This is why, in days bygone, Christmas Eve's lunch would have been the only meal of the day: by decree of the Church, Venetians were supposed to fast from morning till evening with the exception of midday, when they were allowed to have a small meal of Bigoli co la Sardela (Venetian spaghetti with sardines), Mandorlato (nougat) e vin Bon (good wine).
Fish at the Rialto Market
Nowadays the use of eating “magro” (light - that is eating fish and vegetables) continues but instead of having a midday meal, the banquet has moved to the evening, with a light (if we can call it that) dinner. Venetian Christmas Eve's tables will be full of traditional fish based recipes, like Risotto de Pevarasse (Venetian Clams risotto), Branzino al forno (oven cooked Seabass) or Anguilla (Eel) accompanied by mixed fried fish together with some grilled or stewed vegetables. No matter that they will be smothered with mayonnaise and other sauces, the perception of “magro” still persists!
Antipasti of Salami
Then Christmas day comes. Always back in the middle ages, the agrarian rituals demanded that people should eat “ossocollo”, a typical Venetian sausage, made by using the pieces of meat from the vertebrae of the pig's neck. The meat is marinated with salt and saltpeter for a week, then it's dried, covered with milled pepper and mixed spices and then it is packed in the guts of the pig. It is tied and hanged for 2 months. In the 15th century ossocollo would be used to make broth as well as constituting the main meal of this special day.
Today a typical Venetian Christmas meal would still start with an antipasto (starter) of ossocollo but also with other cold meats like Soppressa, Salame, Prosciutto Crudo e Cotto served with grissini (breadsticks) and pickled vegetables (onion, gherkins, peppers, carrots).
But for centuries right up to today, three main traditional dishes have been served on Venetian Christmas tables for the joy of all diners: Capeeti or Ravioli in Brodo di Cappone (Ravioli in Capon broth), Cappone lesso (boiled Capon) and “Musetto” (boiled salame) with Puree di patate (mashed potatoes) and spinaci (spinach).
The “mare” (the mother, the woman of the house) prepares the broth with the cappone (a capon is a rooster that has been castrated to improve the quality of its meat) on Christmas eve, boiling a large capon together with salted water and carrots, celery, onion and herbs. This broth will be used to cook the capeeti (small homemade tortellini) in it. The capeeti would be prepared with flour, eggs and water, mixing to a dough, rolling it and cutting out some rounds which would have been filled with a mixture of pork meat, turkey meat, Parmesan cheese, nutmeg and eggs. Just exactly like Tortellini or Ravioli. This tradition is so old, that in Venice it would not be Christmas if you didn't find this dish on the table.
The Capon is then cut into chunks and served as the main dish together with the “Musetto”, a salame similar to the cotechino in shape, but at the same time very different in taste. The worldwide famous cotechino is made using the rind of the pig together with lean and fat pork meat. “Musetto” is made using the meat from the head of the pig (previously boiled) which is minced and then mixed with lean pork meat and spices. The musetto is then cooked in boiling water for a few hours and served in slices.
The Capon and the Musetto are always served on a bed of mashed potatoes (in Italy our mashed potatoes are a more chunky then the American ones) and spinach (either boiled or stewed) together with different sauces like cren (horseradish sauce), mayonnaise, mustard. Many times there will also be the unmissable hot creamy polenta, either yellow or white.
And last, but not least, desserts!!!! Venice is famous for having a dessert for every occasion (Carnevale, Easter and so on), but Christmas brings the best out of Venetian bakeries and patisseries and this is reflected on the festive menu. At the end of a very large and succulent meal, Venetians will have for sure first some dried fruits like nuts, walnuts, peanuts, figs, dates followed by the real dessert, which would have come either from a local baker or patisserie: most probably Pandoro (the typical raised all butter soft bread cake from Verona) or Panettone (similar to Pandoro, but filled with raisins and mixed peel), but they might also have Torrone (nougat) or Mostarda con Mascarpone.
Mostarda is a condiment typical of some Northern Italian regions, dating back around the year 1300. Not yellow mustard as Americans know it, mostarda is a condiment of candied fruit and mustard essence. Mostarda allowed people to keep extremely perishable fruit for a long time. A typical mostarda is made with sugar, mustard essence and whole fruits, but Venetian mustard is made with different types of candied fruit and finely chopped quince as well as mustard essence. The combination with the mascarpone cheese makes it a really tasty and delicate dessert.
Obviously all of this opulence would be paired with the best wines the Veneto region can offer: rivers of Prosecco or Raboso, fountains of Merlot or Manzoni, gushes of Soave or Verduzzo. And to end it all the best of dessert wines, like the worldwide famous Cartizze, the Recioto or the Moscato.
So, hoping to have tantalized your taste buds, as we say here, Buon Appetito e Buon Natale!
This week and next, some friends from Italy are "stopping by" on Food Lover's Odyssey. They'll be sharing a little bit of Christmas Around Italy from their part of the bel paese. Today, a big welcome to Tavole Romane (Roman Tables)! Their reviews of Roman eateries (now in both Italian and English) have been regular features on my weekly roundup Italy on a Plate. Tavole Romane also provides food tours in Rome, and today they are taking us on a virtual stroll through Rome in search of sweets for Christmas, and Hanukkah.Enjoy!
Let’s bring our attention to Christmas, in a “gourmet” way. There are the savory treats: tortellini, cappone, bollito, capitone, and “frittelle” made of fried dough filled with baccalà or vegetables. And still, there are the sweet Christmas treats: panettone, pandoro, struffoli, panforte, torrone...the list could go on forever! For those of you who are into the gastronomic side of Italy, all of this surely reaches immediately to your head and senses. So, let us focus on the “sweet” side of the gastronomic sensation and let us turn it into reality! How? Follow us through a quick Roman “passeggiata” as we walk through 10 special sweet addresses in Rome.
Let us begin with pastries and sweets which have a pure and radical ROMAN IDENTITY. This category's main ingredients are dried fruits, raisins, honey, spices and chocolate. Various combinations of these ingredients come together to create different pastries: panpepato (a peppered bread based on fruit, almonds, nuts, honey, and peppered chocolate), pangiallo romano (made with dried fruit, nuts, almonds, pine nuts and sweetened by the addition of sultanas to result in a relatively low-sugar content), mostaccioli romani (diamond shaped sweets covered in chocolate and nuts, almonds, fruit and honey) and the classical torrone (soft and white nougat, with honey, almonds and pistachios, and sugar coated).
1) Pasticceria Valzani - An earlier post of ours referred to “Those sweets which set time still...” and that motto does justice to the production of this bakery! Valzani has always been in the same location and has been producing the same high-quality pastries since 1925. They are famous for their preparation of chocolate-based products, such as Sacher Torte, Easter eggs and pralines as well as for their Mont Blanc and their seasonal specialties. At Christmas time of course you can find the traditional products: pangiallo, panpepato, roman mostaccioli and the classical torrone along with variations characterized by different coatings such as pine nuts, pistachios, and chocolate. (Their web site provides for on-line purchase of their products.) Address: Via del Moro 37 (Trastevere), tel. 06.5803792, closed on Monday and Tuesday morning
2)Pasticceria Regoli - Another pastry shop with a 100-year tradition like Valzani. As you enter the place you can see their claim to have been in this business “since 1916!" Over the years they have consistently been among the top producers of pastries in Rome (according to us at least!). Definitely worth mentioning are the outstanding profiteroles, maritozzo (a dough filled with cream) and “bavarese." For Christmas, of course, pangiallo and roman mostaccioli. Address: via dello Statuto 60 (Esquilino), tel. 06.4872812, closed on Tuesday.
3) Panella l'Arte del Pane - As old as the previous ones, we have another business started in the twenties, 1922 being the actual start. Panella is like a casket full of baked products. (and not only that!) They also have sweet and savory selections. Over Christmas the shop windows are filled with a variety of torrone and other Christmas delicacies. Watch out not to empty your wallet here! Address: via Merulana 54 (Esquilino), tel. 06 4872435, open every day.
Let us tour now around the JEWISH TRADITION. True, Christmas is not a Jewish celebration. However, you should not miss a walk through the Ghetto in Rome, where you can find a number of delicious products which come out for the "festival of Lights" hanukkà. Fried sweets in this season: specifically Latkes (sort of potato pancakes in sour cream) and Sufganiot (donut filled with jam or custard and covered in sugar, they bring back to memory the roman "bomba"). And after a quick immersion into the Jewish tradition let us take a look at the addresses. We cannot be positive you shall find latkes e sufganiot in the places we suggest, but these are undoubtedly among the best in Rome when it comes to the Jewish tradition.
4) Boccione - A must in the Ghetto! The place looks exactly like it did in the old times. You can easily find a line at the entrance. After a short wait you will be able to collect your “ricotta and visciole” or “ricotta and cioccolato” tart, or sweets based on dried fruit, honey and “beridda bread." In this season, as well as over the rest of the year, you should rely on the “house suggestions” and you will be happy. Address:via del Portico d’Ottavia 2 (Jewish Getto), tel. 06 6878637, closed on Saturday. Kosher-certified.
5) Il Mondo di Laura - Here we come across a little of magic: mixing Kosher tradition, the international experience of Laura Raccah, and high-quality ingredients, to get a number of different cookie productions. So, over Christmas time, stop by and fill in a box with nuggets, candy spice, "miss cioccolatissima," "green lady" and many more. The products are available at their direct sale point as well as at resellers (such as Castroni). Address:via della Reginella 18 b (Ghetto) or via Tiburtina 263 (close to Bologna subway stop), tel. 06.5880966, closed on Saturday and Friday afternoon. Kosher-certified.
And let us finish our tour with tastes coming from the TRADITION OF OTHER ITALIAN REGIONS. How can we not mention the Panettone (we are supporters of the original recipe based on raisin and candied fruit!) from Northern Italy and the sweets coming from the South in a triumph of ricotta and citrus flavors.
6) Antico Forno Roscioli - One more historical address which, over the generations, bakes bread, pizza (widely recognized the famous pizza bianca!) and gastronomy products. At Christmas time there is room for some Northern recipes and you can find an amazing panettone with raisin. For the few who would not know, we point out their delicatessen shop and restaurant close by in via dei Giubbonari. Address: via dei chiavari 34 (Campo de' Fiori), tel.06 6864045, closed on Sunday.
7) Pasticceria Perle - A brand new address in the suburbs of Rome (Capannelle area). A shop in Rome, after the original one in Velletri, for Fabrizio Donatone and his creations (widely recognized are his pan brioche but also cakes, profiteroles, and mignon - little desserts). For Christmas you can find a panettone prepared with high quality ingredients and yeast. Available in the traditional recipe as well as in chocolate and orange. Our special thanks to Lorenzo “Linguini” who let us discover this shop. Address: via Appia Nuova 1220/b (Capannelle), tel. 06 45421748
8) Forno Farinando - One more Bakery – in the heart of Testaccio – which bakes yeast breads following natural procedures. For Christmas you can find a tasty panettone filled with lots of bitter chocolate chips. Maybe it is not top notch quality but still we feel they well deserve to be mentioned as a reference in this list! Address:via Luca Della Robbia 30 (Testaccio), tel. 06 5750674, closed on Sunday.
9) Pasticceria Sal de Riso - Slowly slowly we go down south in Italy and our thoughts arrive in Campania! The sweets of Sal de Riso have been, over the years, a seductive synthesis of taste and flavor of the Amalfi Coast, high quality mastery and ingredients! For Christmas panettone baked according to the Milanese classical recipe, but he also adds a number of “deviations” (such as almond coated with candied orange, sultanas and diamond citrus coated in almond glacè, orange flavored cremderì with nut cream in extra virgin DOP olive oil, limoncello in limoncello cream and IGP Amalfi’s lemon peels,...). Address:via Gallia 12, (San Giovanni), tel. 06 68135738, closed on Sunday.
10) Pasticceria Siciliana Svizzera - And here we come to the southern top! As the name suggests, this place is all-for-Sicily and its products, based on ricotta and candied fruit. So, for Christmas you can find “cassatine” (Sponge Cake covered in royal dough and sugar glaze and filled with sweetened sheep ricotta and candied fruit) and “Buccellati” (a donut filled cookie with dried figs, almond, raisins, lemon peels). Address:piazza Pio XI 10 (Aurelio-Gregorio VII), tel. 06 6374974, closed on Monday.
We can’t help but close this post with our “Sweet” wishes for the upcoming holidays to our fellow Roman citizens and to all of you who will happen to be in the “Capitale” over these magic days!
*Photos in this post, unless otherwise noted, are by Tavole Romane.
Christmas in Italy. The markets, regional seasonal delicacies, and participating in Italian Christmas festivities. This dream vacation is on my "bucket list," so I've been jotting down notes and websites pertaining to Christmas in Italy for a while. Last week, I said to myself, "I'll share this information with you, here. Easy." Well, if I had the notes in one, and not 4 different, notebooks it would have been a little easier. Also, narrowing down the numerous events in Italy's 20 regions is about as easy as deciding which Italian cities to visit and which you'll have to save for the next trip.
The majority of the Christmas markets, called Mercatini di Natale, are in the Trentino/Alto-Adige, just south of Austria, but these festivities go on throughout the boot. Typically there are wooden chalets selling Christmas decorations, hand-crafted goods, seasonal food and drinks. The piazze turn into dream villages with lights, Christmas trees, music and merriment. Manger scenes, called presepi, wooden, ceramic and sometimes live versions, are everywhere. Scents of baked Christmas sweets and spiced wine fill the air. That old hag La Befana and even Babbo di Natale (Santa Claus) enchant or scare the children. There are usually rides - even live animals - for the children to enjoy. There can also be rides for the adults. Maybe a romantic horse-drawn carriage or a tiny train, taking you through the medieval village and beyond the ancient walls to nearby parks and castles.
Below is a list of some of the Christmas markets and events throughout Italy along with links to the official sites, when I found one. Many of the sites are only in Italian, with the exception of the multi-lingual South Tyrol. Starting the end of November or early December, the markets continue through Christmas to January 6 (the religious holiday of the Epiphany). Then La Befana, the witch who brings candy to good kids and coal to bad ones, makes an appearance. If you're traveling to Italy around Christmas, these markets have something for everyone.
Piazza Caveri turns into an alpine Christmas village with real Christmas, trees, lights and wooden houses (casette) selling local artigianal products and food.
Mostra Mercato di Natale (Christmas Show Market) - December 5, 12, & 19 - 9am to 8pm in Piazza Chanoux - Over 70 exhibitors will have local hand-crafted gifts for sale
Piedmont
Turin - December 3 to 23 in Piazza Borga Dora and the surrounding area
The piazza also becomes a Christmas village with a huge Christmas tree in the piazza and many exhibitors selling products and food. On Dec. 5, 6,7,8,12,13,19,& 20 there is a free shuttle bus that leaves from the center at Piazza Castello to Piazza Borga Dora. Restaurants in the surrounding area will be offering special Christmas menus.
The Oh Bej, Oh Bej Fair (Milan's dialect for "How beautiful, how beautiful") is a fair to honor the patron saint of Milan, St. Ambrogio. The fair will have over 400 stalls selling Christmas items and food.
Trentino-Alto Adige
Trentino Christmas Markets Site - This is the site for all information on Christmas markets in Arco, Andalo, Levico, Pergine Valsugana, Rango nel Bleggio, Rovereto, and Trento
Arco - November 19 to December 23 in the historic center (centro storico)
Special events at the festival: December 7th is the Festa d' Immacolata and there will be a fireworks display from the castle. December 11 & 12 there will be a showing of an Italian verson of Dicken's A Christmas Carol. They will have a little train (trenino) to take you around the city.You can check here: Complete Arco Christmas Program for all events and times.
Andalo - December 3 to 24 in Piazza Dolomiti
Bolzano (Bozen) - November 26 to December 23 in Piazza Walter
One of the most photographed cities in the Dolomites, Bolzano, sits in the valley surrounded by rolling hills and the Dolomite mountains in the backdrop. At Christmas, Bolzano and the valley may also be carpeted with snow. Along with the traditional market, there will be an artisan one (hand-made crafts) at Piazza Municipio and Notte dei Musei where evening entrance into certain museums will be free.
Bressanone (Brixen) - November 26 to January 6, 2011 in Piazza Duomo
The market takes place in the main cathedral's square. The Cathedral (Duomo) has an 800-year old Gothic cloister. There will be a presepi exhibition at Episcopal Palace.
Bruncio(Bruneck) - November 26 to January 6, 2011 on the Nuovo Piazza Municipio
Another gem situated at the foot of the Dolomites, you can add a ski vacation to your trip. The ski resort Kronplatz is just outside the town.
Levico - November 20 to January 6, 2011in the Parco Alburgico
Along with the traditional Christmas Market, food will be a huge theme of the celebrations with a Polenta Fest (11/28 - 12/8) and a Cheese Fest (12/5-12/12). In the park there will also be a Santa Clause 5K run - Santa suit is required for entry. A fireworks show will be held at 9:30pm on these Saturday evenings: 11/27, 12/4 and 12/11, and there will be horse-drawn carriage rides.
Merano - November 26 to January 6, 2011on the historic spa promenade
The 18th year of the festival in the spa town of Merano, its held along a beautiful riverfront promenade. Check out a huge gallery of previous Merano Christmas Markets photos. The website, with an English option, is full of information and pictures.
Rango nel Bleggio - December 5 to 19
Rovereto - November 27 to January 2, 2011 in Corso Rosmini
Along with local products there will also be Christmas items from North Europe.
One of the more visited and famous of the markets of Trentino, it's also the busiest. The site brags that over 100 pullman buses come to the town each weekend. The piazza is next to the huge medieval wall of the city which adds to the medieval Christmas feel.
Vipiteno(Sterzing) November 26 to January 6, 2011 in Piazza Citta (Stadtplatz)
This medieval mining town, will have a mining exhibition along with the regular Christmas market.
Veneto
Verona - December 4 to January 23, 2011 in Piazza Bra and the Arena
Verona's Arena, the sight for the summer opera festival, is illuminated and houses over 400 nativity scenes. A huge star arches from the Arena out and onto Piazza Bra where the Christmas market and its vendors are. Christmas treats include Pandoro (a sweet Christmas bread) and Nadalin (star Christmas cookies).
Emiglia-Romana
Bologna - There are two festivals that celebrate Christmas. Fiera di Santa Lucia, also a celebration of the saint, is the bigger of the two.
Fiera di Santa Lucia - November 20 to December 26 around Church dei Servi
Fiera di Natale - November 20 to January 6, 2011 on Via Altabella
Liguria
Genoa - December 7 to 19 at La Fiera di Genova - Piazzale Kennedy
Almost any kind of gift you could immagine will be at this Fiera a Natale. There will also be a food and wine section with products from Liguria and lessons on making traditional Christmas food.
Tuscany
Florence:
Florence Noel - December 4 to 12 at Stazione Leopoldo - Entrance = 7,50 euros
The Leopoldo Train Station houses this festival. Along with stalls selling gift items, chocolate and other foods, there will be Santa's house (Casa di Babbo Natale ) where children can meet Santa, write, and post letters to him.
Mercato Tedesco di Natale - December 1 to 19 in Piazza Santa Croce
This will be a traditional Christmas market with wooden houses selling hand-crafted products and food and wine.
The 18th annual festival bills itself as the biggest show market for gastronomy and artigianal products in the region. Its main location is the 16th century fortress, but there will also be food and wine stalls in the historic center and craft stalls in Piazza Italia.
Le Marche
Pesaro - December 4 to 8 in the nearby town of Candelara
An illuminated Christmas Market. At certain moments during the event, the city will be illuminated only with candles. Along with the traditional market and via dei presepi (a manger exhibit), there will also be ice sculptures of manger scenes. There will be free shuttle bus service from Pescaro (several central locations) to the town of Candelara.
Fano - December 1 to 31 in various locations throughout the city
The traditional Christmas market will be in Giardini Amiani. There are many festivities during the month of December. The Tempo di Natale events include a nativity exhibit along via Mura San Gallo, an afternoon market in the centro storico at Piazza XX Settembre, and several concerts.
Vatican City - Along with the presepe display, huge Christmas tree in the piazza, and midnight mass on December 24, there are a number of religious celebrations througout the month of December.
100 Presepi Display - November 26 to January 6, 2011 in Piazza del Popolo - Entrance = 5,50 euros weekdays and 6,50 euros weekends/holidays
Frascati - "Natale a Frascati" will be from December 3 to January 5, 2011 in the town center (centro)
Frascati, one of the towns of the Castelli Romani, will have 40 wooden houses selling products and food, and both Santa Claus and La Befana will make appearances.
Campania
Napoli:
Via San Gregorio Armeno in the historic center
This is "Christmas Lane" all year long, selling the Presepi Napolitano, but in December the street becomes even more festive.
For presepi on exhibit, these churches/monasteries have them:
Pontecagnano - From November 17 to December 19 in the Gardens (Giardini) of Piazza Sabbato
This town near Salerno is kicking off its first "Christmas Market" this year. Modeled after the Christmas markets in the north of Italy and of those in Northern Europe, it will have a Southern Italian feel featuring local products, food and wine.
Sicily
Caltagirone - On weekends from November 6&7 to December 11&12 in Piazza Umberto
A Christmas market with the requisite wooden stalls and presepi but also Sicilian crafts and sweets
The market will have hand-crafted items along with Sardinian food and wine products
How fun it will be to see Christmas festivals throughout Italy, from ones in the snow-covered South Tirol to those surrounded by palm trees in Sicily. The magic, romance, wonderment, SHOPPING, and SWEETS! My plan is to go next year; however, after putting this list together and seeing all the photos and videos, like the one below, I've seriously thought about changing my plans. Should I forego my planned trip in March and make a Christmas trip this December? What do you think?
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Have you been to any of the Christmas markets in Italy? Do you know of a great Christmas market or festival not listed?
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