Food Lover's Odyssey

France Roundtable: 10 Places for Romantic Vacations in France

 

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Welcome to the third installment of the monthly France Blogging Roundtable, a project organized by Christine Cantera of WhyGo France. The group includes Christine and four others of us who blog about France: Jennifer of Chez Lou Lou, Jamie of Life's a Feast, EuroCheapo, and me. Each month we'll share our unique perspectives on a predetermined topic about France. So pull up a chair to our Roundtable, have a croissant or an eclair, and join in on the conversation.  We'd love to hear your take on each month's topic and your comments.  This month's topic: Romance in France

 

What makes a place romantic?  I think the criteria is somewhat subjective. What's important to me is to be surrounded by water, preferably the sea. A river, lake, canal or pretty fountains will do, too.  Some might want cold and snow to cuddle, but I want warmer ambiance; green  vineyards, hills,  rugged cliffs, quaint little villages, maybe a castle or two, sidewalk cafes with wicker chairs, lush gardens and parks with ideal spots for picnics.  Promenades that invite walking arm-in-arm are necesary, too. Basically, I want my idea of a picturesque setting, one that encourages amorous feelings. 

Right now you might be thinking that I want WAY too much.  Not true, because when it comes to romantic settings, France really has all this and more. 

Today I'm suggesting 9 spots in France for romantic vacations.  For the 10th, I want to hear your opinion and am leaving it up to you to decide. My 9 choices may seem completely random, but they do have several common threads; the first being water. They each also live up to my above-mentioned list of criteria. That and, except for the last city on my list, on all my visits to these places I've been without a date!  Each time I've been to one of these romantic spots its been with groups of friends, my parents, or with nobody else except my camera to keep me company. Really, Cupid, you need to get better aim with that arrow.  So these cities are on what you might call my "bucket list for romantic vacations."  (Hey Cupid, are you listening?) 

 

Bordeaux

 

Vineyards and majestic wine houses sprawl out along both sides of the Gironde river.  An ideal lovers' vacation includes a cozy room surrounded by grapevines. Visits to wine houses and wine tastings include scenic drives through the various wine regions of Bordeaux. Wines in this region are not only for wine snobs and the elite.  No, there is a wine chateau and wine for everyone to enjoy.  Make an appointment for a tour beforehand and you should have no problems.  The Bordeaux tourist office, one of the most efficient and informative I've seen, also provides tours and they help with setting up independent visits. A great time to visit is during the Fete le Vin held bi-annually on the banks of the Gironde River in the city of Bordeaux.  This year, 2012, the wine festival will be held June 28 to July 1.

 

 

 

Cahors

The medieval bridge: Ponte Valentre over the Lot River

 

A few years ago, I spent a month in the Dordogne region getting to know its food and its photographic villages.  Cahors was extra special.  I love the way the Lot River wraps itself like a horseshoe around three quarters of the city center to give you the feeling you're on an island.  Lively Boulevard Gambetta, the main street of the town, reminded me of a mini Cours Mirabeau.  Like the famous street in Aix-en-Provence, sidewalk cafes, shops and trees filled both sides of the street. Take a boat ride around Cahors or a balloon ride over it. There is a mostly shaded walking path along the river bank. Like the river, the path curves around the town.  The green grass invites you to stop and have a picnic along the trail.  Cahors is known for its "black wine" and there are around 200 wines with the label. The Malbec grape makes the strong dark wine of the region.  Drives surrouned by vineyards, winery visits and tastings can easily be part of a trip here, too.

 

 

 

Sarlat

 

Also in the Dordogne, the medieval village of Sarlat makes for a nice base to explore the region.  Cobblestone streets, turreted buildings and small winding alleyways allow for hand-in-hand strolls, especially at night.  Market days are Wednesday and Saturdays. Then you can pick up picnic fare for your drive along the Dordogne river. Majestic castles span the hilltops that flank both sides of the river.  Boat rides in the historic gabares (17th & 18th century boats of the region) are my choice for seeing the Dordogne. Or take a dreamy drive through the valley where tiny medieval villages pop up along the countryside.  It seems each village has its own castle, too.  The pristinely pruned Gardens of Marqueyssac are nearby and also a good choice for a lovers' stroll.

 

 

Aix-en-Provence

Rotunda Fountain at the entrance to the Cours Mirabeau in Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence just might be my favorite Provencal town.  Fountains and flowing water are everywhere.  The tree-lined Cours Mirabeau has one sidewalk cafe after another.  The place to sit under the plane trees and enjoy the scenery.  Take a walk along one of the pedestrian streets that splinter off from Cours Mirabeau. Or enjoy a couples' spa day.  Aix has many spas fed by the natural themal springs that flow under the city.  These springs have been soothing aches and pains all the way back to Roman times.  During the summer months, you can see lavender fields forever with a ride along the Lavender Trail of Provence - Les Routes de la Lavande. 

 

 

Sanary-sur-Mer

 

 

This sleepy seaside town in the southeast of Provence is far off the tourist radar, but that only makes a more enjoyable to hideaway with the one you love.  With a daily provencal market right at the port and cafes that look out into the Mediterrenean, I instantly fell in love with this village during my visit with Tuula and her husband.  The lively market is open daily.  The water is a deep blue. The cafes are perfectly placed to look out on the harbor and the sea. There is a small beach nearby and the village has several pastry and other shops to make it an ideal spot for an amorous and relaxing seaside vacation. 

 

 

 

Cassis

Cassis is another cozy seaside village of Provence.  It too has cafes that follow the curve of the harbor.  In them you can enjoy the views of the sea and the bounty of this fishing village, generous seafood platters especially made for two. The main attraction are the Calanques (the steep limestone walled inlets).  Take a boat ride to the Calanques and then a moonlit walk around the harbor.

 

 

Strasbourg

 

Named an Unesco World Heritage Site, the main island (Grande Ile) is arguably the most beautiful part of Strasbourg.  Half-timbered houses with flower box windows, canals, and cafes that border the canals all add to the special ambiance in Strasbourg.  As the city is very near the German border, the German influences are evident, especially in the food.  Pretzels sit stacked on tables.  Sausae & choucroute (French for the Alsatian name for saurkraut- surkrut) and foie gras sit side-by-side on restaurant menus.   Enjoy any or all of these dishes at one of the cafes along the canal.  In the evening when the moon and the street lights dance on the water's surface, the romantic mood is even stronger.

 

 

Nice

 

If the blue Mediterrenean, seaside strolls, and awe-inspiring hilltop views are part of your requirements for a romantic setting, Nice should be on your list, too.  The Promenade des Anglais that curves with Nice's Bay of Angels is lovely for a stroll day or night. As is the pedestrian only Old Nice (Vieux Nice).  A picnic, with food from the Cours Saleya, atop Castle Hill will give you a view just like that in the photo above.  From Nice, the other cities and villages of the French Riviera (Cannes, Monaco, Antibes, Eze and more) are easily accesible by train.  Cuddle together while enjoying a train ride along the coast.  If your more adventurous, take a drive along the one of the three corniches along the Riviera coast. Old Nice, one of my favorite areas in the city day or night, is full of sidewalk cafes and cozy bars.

 

 

Paris

 

Although I have had a date or two in the city I once called home, I would never leave the city of love and lights off the list.  Paris has everything required for a romantic setting: the Seine River, the lights, bridges, canals, sidewalk cafes, an endless number of parks and outdoor markets to pick up picnic fare, tree-lined grand boulevards and cozy alleys.

 Along the Seine and the Canal St. Martin would be my top two picks for a stroll, especially at dusk, but an evening walk anywhere in Paris is tres romantique.  A picnic for two is a must.  What's in my picnic basket? A baguette, cheese, wine and, of course, Parisian pastries.  You'll find a park on almost every rue, but I would choose the banks of the Seine or under the Eiffel Tower at the Champs de Mars as places to lay my picnic blanket.

 

 

 

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For number 10, I want to hear from you!  Where would you go in France for a romantic getaway.  What criteria do you use to decide what makes a place "romantic?"

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Check out what the others have to say about romance in France:

•  Romance in France  from WhyGo France  

 

December's Roundtable Topic - Favorite French Art: Art and Chateau Vaux le Vicomte

January's Rountable Topic - French Comfort Food: Favorite French Comfort Food

 

 

 

Christmas in France: Aix-en-Provence Christmas Market

 

 

I have another friend stopping by, this time from France, to share a little Christmas in Provence.  I'm welcoming Tuula, an American expat living in Provence. She is the author of the beautiful blog and travel site, Belle Provence Travels.  On her site, Tuula shares much of magical Provence with us, while discovering out-of-the-way little villages and markets along the way.  After meeting her virtually via our blogs, I had the great fortune of meeting Tuula in person during my trip to France in October.  It was one of the highlights of my trip. She took me to little villages on hills, outdoor food markets, wine tasting and on several other culinary adventures - all of which you'll be hearing about soon.  Today we're talking Christmas, as she shares a day at the Christmas market in Aix-en-Provence - and many of the treats on offer at the market.  Enjoy!

 

Being an American living abroad certainly has its ups & downs, but undoubtedly one of the high points of residing in the beautiful land of France is the chance to experience the Christmas season... à la française.

What France may lack in splashy decorations (believe me, I really do miss my sparkly, pot-bellied Santa from home), it more than makes up for in simple sophistication.  Holiday traditions in Provence, as in other French regions, are quite a subdued affair - full of elegant pine trees (les petits sapins), lots of twinkling white lights (think woodsy meets Coco Chanel), and thankfully, a Christmas market in almost every city.

Which brings us to perhaps one of the most quintessentially Provençal cities of all: Aix-en-Provence.  It's difficult not to fall under the spell of this charming university town which somehow manages to do "high-brow" and "stone-washed village" all at the same time.

Having visited this southern gem on many an occasion, I can safely say Aix really shines during the holiday season - and nowhere is this more apparent than at the annual Christmas market.  This past weekend, I braved the somewhat less-charming holiday crowds to shop the "snowy" chalets lining the main boulevard of Aix: Cours Mirabeau.

Representing not only Provençal specialties, including many of the key ingredients needed to make the famed 13 desserts of Christmas, the market was filled with traditional French favorites.  Chocolates of all shapes & sizes, macarons, cookies (navettes from Marseille & calissons from Aix), mulled wine (vin chaud), and gingerbread - to be served beneath a huge slab of fois gras, of course.

This is a French Christmas after all...no skimping on taste or quality by any means.  And if you ever happen to be this far dans le sud (in the south), you may just want to check out the Christmas market in my town.  Oyster bar anyone?

 

"Gingerbread man" - Pain d'Epices vendor at the market

 

 

Calissons - Almond paste "cookies" from Aix in holiday colors

 

 

A French Christmas market isn't complete without macarons

 

Navettes - Cookies from Marseille

 

Buches de Noel

 

Boules de Mousse - in the shape of Christmas bells

 

Santons de Provence

 

 

*All photos in this post are courtesy of Tuula - Belle Provence Travels

 

Related Posts:

Christmas Around Italy: 10 Addresses for Christmas Sweets in Rome

Christmas Around Italy: Traditional Venetian Christmas Dinner

Christmas Around Italy: Christmas Traditions in Naples

Holiday Dessert Recipes

Paris Christmas Market: La Defense - Belle Provence Travels

A Day at the Market with Chef Kathy  - Belle Provence Travels

 

 

France Roundtable: Art and Chateau Vaux le Vicomte

 

Welcome to the first installment of the monthly France Blogging Roundtable, a project organized by Christine Cantera of WhyGo France. The group includes Christine and four others of us who blog about France: Jennifer of Chez Lou Lou, Jamie of Life's a Feast, EuroCheapo, and me. Each month we'll share our unique perspectives on a predetermined topic about France.  This month's topic is “Favorite Art in France.” So pull up a chair to our Roundtable, have a croissant or an eclair, and join in on the conversation.  We'd love to hear your take on each month's topic and your comments.

 

Two things initially brought me to Vaux le Vicomte.  First, I'm a sucker for French castles.  If there's a castle in the area, I'm there.  Even though I'm usually mocking the eccentricities of the very rich, I have to give them credit. Their eccentricities and patronage have brought us great works of art.  Also, being a huge fan of Alexandre Dumas and his many books that take place in France, I went to Vaux le Vicomte in search of  "The Man in the Iron Mask."  There was no man in a mask. Instead I fell in love with the castle and its gardens. Restored to their original grandeur, the castle and the gardens tell the story of its past and are whimsical enough to invite inspiratioin, wonder and new creativity.

The castle was the idea of Nicolas Fouquet, minister of finances for King Louis XIV. He set out to build the finest chateau in France and hired the architect, Louis le Vau, the interior designer, Charles le Brun, and the landscape artist, Andre LeNotre to help. Unfortunately for Fouquet, he was a little too successful.  His creatiion also set in motion his demise.  King Louis XIV asked to see the place.  Fouquet had a feast prepared for the king and an evening of lavish entertainment that ended in an elaborate fireworks display, one that had them coming from everywhere, even the top of the castle's dome. 

The king didn't like being upstaged by one of his employees, and three weeks after the fete, Fouquet was arrested for embezzlement.  A trumped up charge, Fouquet spent the rest of his life in prison, dying 19 years later.  King Louis XIV took le Vau, le Brun and LeNotre and had them create a new castle, bigger and better than Vaux le Vicomte.  Versailles was born, its size and its gardens tripling that of Vaux le Vicomte.  The king also took statues, tapesties and the orange trees from Vaux le Vicomte.

Though it's no longer the biggest castle in France, Vaux le Vicomte has been restored to its majestic form, one which dominates the gardens from every angle and where its reflection shimmers in the garden's lakes.  My favorite part of the castle is the domed Grand Salon, and well of course, the kitchen.  The kitchen, too, has been fixed and furnished as it was in Fouquet's time (late 1600s).  The gardens are what I love the most. Can a garden be considered art?  I think so.  Meticulously placed lakes, ponds, grottoes, fountains, sculptures and shrubs fill the garden, while a square shaped canal frames the castle. The garden is the place where art and nature come together and inspire.

 

  

"To Create a Garden is to paint a landscape." ~ Alexander Pope

 

A summer's eve at Vaux le Vicomte

 

In the summer, candlelights are set throughout the gardens and along the castle's window sills. The fountains come alive to a musical display.  There's also another reason to love Vaux le Vicomte.  For the last four years during the first weekend in November, the castle has been transformed into un Palais du Chocolat.  Chocolate and chocolatiers take over for the weekend and turn the castle into a chocolate lover's paradise.  Just missing the chocolate festivities this year, (I'll make sure to see them next year, though) I visited the castle again this Autumn to find the garden just as beautiful and adorned with the colors of Fall.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Inside the Castle:

 

 

The kitchen restored its the 17th century look

 

 

The castle, rarely crowded, is an easy 25-minute ride on the train or RER from Paris to Merlun.  On the weekends, there is a shuttle bus that will take you to and from the Merlun train station.  On other days, you need to take a taxi from Merlun's station.  If you're visiting Paris during December, Vaux le Vicomte celebrates Christmas at the castle.

 

Check out what the others have to say about art in France:

• Favorite French Art  from WhyGo France
  
• Favorite Art in France  from Chez Lou Lou
• Paris Art Museums: Admission, Charges and Discounts  from EuroCheapo

 

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What is your favorite art in France?

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Market Day in Sarlat - Featuring Food of the Region

 

 

Snuggled up against the hillside, Sarlat is a well-preserved medieval village with narrow cobbled streets, courtyards, turreted buildings and ivy covered walls.  Sarlat is most busy on Wednesdays and Saturdays, its market days. Place de la Liberte, rue Victor Hugo and rue de la Republique fill with vendors and their colored tents. Nearby villagers and tourists fill the town, scuttling from one vendor to another sampling and buying the local products.  Since this is the Dordogne (aka "land of the duck"), you can be sure to find plenty of duck at the butchers and many foie gras vendors.  Other local specialties like goose, cheese, walnuts, cherries and truffles (when in season) are also in abundance, along with the normal delicacies you can find at a French outdoor food market.

 

 
Hotel de Ville and Place de la Liberte hosts market day

 
Country Bread Baker at the market

 

 

Cheeses from the Auvergne

 
Cured meats (Saucissons) varieties of duck, walnuts, porcini mushrooms, cheese and wild boar

 

 
Also popular in the region are walnuts - They're used to make walnut oil, walnut cakes, and these crunchy walnut meringue cookies

 
Marinated olives are always a favorite at a French food market

 

Local Cherries and Artichokes

 
The Covered Market (former St. Marie Church in the background)

  

 
Place aux Oies (Goose Square) was once the location of Sarlat's fowl market - now commemorated by the bronze geese statue 

 

After the morning market, the town of Sarlat is a good place to wander through the many narrow alleys and picturesque buildings, ivy colored walls, and pastel-colored shutters.  After your wanderings return to the Place de la Liberte for an apertif and maybe some dinner.

 

 
Church Tower of the Cathedral Saint-Sacredos and typical tiled rooftops of Dordogne

 

 

 

  

 
 

 

 

 
Cafe on Place de la Liberte after market hours

 
 
 
An evening stroll through Sarlat is also nice

 

 

 An aperitif in front of Hotel de Ville at night

 

Market Days:

Outdoor Market Days: Wednesdays and Saturdays - 8:30am - 1:00pm

 

Covered Market Days: Daily inside the former Eglise Sainte Marie - 8:30am - 2:00pm

Organic Night Market: Thursday nights 6:00-10:00pm in Place 14 Juillet from June 17 to September 16

Truffle and Foie Gras Market Days: In December, January, February Saturdays from 9:00am - Noon

 



Festivals:

Truffle Festival: Third weekend in January

 

Goose Festival (Fest' Oie): Third Sunday in February

Local Produce Celebration (Journees du Terroir): May 13 and 14

Christmas Market: Last three weeks in December

 

 

 

Related Posts:

 

The Dish from France and Dordogne: Duck is the Specialty

Flaky Apple Tart - Croustade aux Pommes Inspired by Lunch at Pavillon Margaux

Sunday at the Bastille Market in Paris 

Cooking Classes for the Culinary Traveler in Paris

A Morning at the Rialto Market in Venice

Campo de' Fiori in Rome

 

Eggplant Caponata and Sicilian Market Etiquette

Cooking Classes for the Culinary Traveler in Paris

  

April has made me nostalgic for Paris.  I'm dreaming of walking along the Seine, the parks and flowers in bloom, sitting at outdoor cafes, the food markets, the chocolatiers, croissants, baguettes, and pastries - I’m particularly partial to Paris pastries.

  

  

One can certainly spend a lot of time eating your way through Paris. For those interested in learning more, or even learning how to recreate those French delicacies, there are many classes and tours available for the food lover visiting Paris.  You can get your hands dirty and create a classic French dish, learn the secrets to creating perfectly footed macarons, baguettes, or even croissants. And, if you'd prefer to stay clean and full, you can just eat your way through a guided walking (and eating) tour.  There's something for every taste and every budget. 

  

  

  

Here are some classes and tours available for the traveling foodie in Paris:

 

 

   

Ecole LeNotre - Macaron making classes, a wide selection of both savory and pastry classes and classes for teens 12 to 17 years old.

 

 

  

Le Cordon Bleu - My alma mater has both savory and pastry courses that vary in length from 2 1/2 hours to 4 days.  They also have classes where parents can bring children, a special class brought about by the movie, Julie and Julia, which is dedicated to Julia Child, and they will customize classes for private groups.

 

  

Ecole de Cuisine of Alain Ducasse - Sweet, savory, and wine classes are offered at the cooking school of the world-famous chef Alain Ducasse.

  

Ecole Escoffier at the Ritz Carlton in Paris - The swanky hotel offers courses that last 1 hour to advanced courses that last 6 weeks.  They also have courses for children, teenagers, and group and tailor-made courses.

 

 

  

   

Meeting the French - Gourmet, pastry and chocolate walks, dinners in Parisian homes, and in-home cooking classes are all available.

  

Context Tours Paris - Along with several themed walking tours, they offer a wide variety of culinary walking tours from chocolate-themed to a "Trends in Parisian Gastronomy" tour.

 

  

Paris Walks - This is the most budget-friendly of all the tours.  They offer a chocolate tour or a taste of Paris tour for only 25 euros.

 

  

O Chateau - A variety of wine tasting classes, wine and food pairings and tastings, and day trips to Champagne are available.

 

 

  

 

  

David Lebovitz - The renowned food blogger, cookbook author, and former Chez Panisse pastry chef offers behind-the-scenes gourmet tours and chocolate tours.  The tours sell out quickly, so book well in advance.

 

  

Patricia Wells - The prolific cookbook author offers week-long courses that combine market tours with hands-on cooking in Paris, and also in Provence.  Tours for 2010 are sold out, but she still has openings for 2011.

 

  

Susan Loomis - The author of On Rue Tatin offers one and three-day cooking classes in Paris along with many courses in Normandy, France.

  

  

  

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Have you taken a cooking class while traveling? What was it? What type of cooking class/culinary walk would you like to take and where? 

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Related Posts:

Paris Walks for the Food Lover: Rue de Seine and Rue Bonaparte

Paris Pastry Binge - Pierre Herme

Journey Through the Pastries of Paris - Part 1

French Pastries and 10 Top Patisseries in Paris

L'Epicuriste - Dining in Paris

Easter Chocolates in Paris Windows

The Dish from Paris: Macarons with Ice Cream from LaDuree

Dining at the Hidden Kitchen in Paris

Chocolate Shops in the 6th Arrondissement

A Night at L'Atelier Joel Robuchon

Favorite Parks in Paris to Picnic

 

 

Getting Around and Seeing Paris by Bus

The Metro is the quickest way from one point to another, but I use it only when I'm in a rush.  I try to avoid it all other times for a number of reasons. One is that I don't like almost running into a man peeing on the wall while I'm turning a corner to exit.  Another is that it seems to be completely acceptable to ride the Metro and dig deep into your nose the entire time because EVERY time I'm on a train, I see this.  Oddly enough, wearing gym shoes on the Metro will get you more dirty looks than the nose picking guy or girl.  And, if those aren't enough reasons, having a crazy, drunken, toothless woman yelling at me in French while I'm waiting on the platform, will definitely do it.  (Of course, she is the only one who can't figure out that I'm a tourist and cannot understand slurred French.)

If you've used the Metro and have never seen any of the above, you're very lucky.  I've, unfortunately, run into these situations on more than one occasion, making the bus my first choice in public transportation. The bus also gives you a chance to actually see the city as you travel, and it's good for the elderly, less mobile, or people with luggage because they won't need to climb up and down stairs like they would in the Metro.

A two day pass for all public transportation within Paris (including the Metro and the RER) is 11.60 euros, which is quite a bit less than the 32 euro two-day pass that the open bus tour companies charge. (Just think, you could buy 5 individual pastries with the money saved!) The front of all buses have their line number and destination, and each stop is electronically announced inside the bus, making it very easy for tourists.

I've spent the last couple of days riding and seeing the sites.  Here are a few bus routes that let you see many of the highlights of Paris.

Bus Line #27 -- (Gare St. Lazare to Port de Vitry) See L'Opera Garnier, travel down Avenue de L'Opera, see the Louvre, ride along the Seine, see Notre Dame, La Sorbonne and The Pantheon)

Bus Line #73 -- (Musee D'Orsay to La Defense) Ride along the Champs Elysees to La Defense.

Bus Line #87 -- (Champs de Mars to Port de Reiully) Travel from the Champ de Mars and the Eiffel Tower past Invalides, the Bon Marche, down Saint Germain des Pres and the Latin Quarter, crossing the Seine and seeing Bastille.

Bus Line #84 -- (Pantheon to Port de Champerret) Ride through the Saint Germain des Pres quartier, to Place de la Concorde and Madeleine)

Bus Line #30 -- (Gare de L'est to Trocadero) You can visit the Saint Martin Canal, then hop on this line to ride through Montmarte, the well-to-do 8th arrondissement, around the Arc de Triomphe and end at Trocadero to see the Eiffel Tower.

Bus Line #72 -- (Hotel de Ville to Parc St. Cloud) From Hotel de Ville, ride along rue de Rivoli and the Louvre, the Seine, see the Eiffel Tower, ride through the 8th & 16th arrondissements to the tranquil outskirts of Paris--from there you can take Tram 2 to La Defense and catch Line #73)

You have several options when purchasing tickets:

1) Navigo---for one week it's 16.80 euros and for one month it's 55.10 euros (The weekly ticket begins on Monday and ends Sunday at midnight; the monthly ticket begins the first of each month.) You also pay 5 euros to buy the Navigo card, and you need a passport-type picture of yourself to add to it.  You can keep the card and reuse it each time your in Paris.  This is worth it if you are spending 3 or more days in Paris.

2) Mobilis---valid for an entire day on the bus, Metro and RER; it's 5.80 euros per day.

2) Carnet--10 one-time-use tickets for 11.40 euros.

For Paris transportation information, you can go to www.ratp.fr.

 

Related Posts:

Salted Butter Caramel Ice Cream and Berthillon in Paris

French Pastries and Ten Top Patisseries in Paris

Cooking Classes for the Culinary Traveler in Paris

French Frasier to Celebrate My Blog Birthday

Riding Along the Seine on the Batobus

A Bus to Nowhere Leads to the Saint Martin Canal

Favorite Parks in Paris to Picnic

 



 

 

A Bus to Nowhere Leads to the Saint Martin Canal

Public transit is an awesome thing here; well, it's an awesome thing anywhere.  Here it's very easy to use.  I have many choices for getting around.  I always prefer walking, so I can really see the city at my own pace.  Sometimes things happen and I have to use public transit, i.e. I'm running so late that walking will only delay me more, the three blisters on my foot hurt more than I can stand, or the rain is coming down so hard we might need an ark to survive.

Today, it was the rain.  I bought a sandwich from my favorite boulangerie and pastry from my favorite patisserie and was going to a nearby park to eat.  Then, the downpour came and drowned all plans of lunch in the park, and my umbrella was in a great place---in my apartment.  I did see a bus stop and ducked under the glass to keep dry.  When the bus came, I hopped on.  I thought I would wait out the storm riding around on the bus until the rain stopped; it was much warmer than the bus stop.

 
 

Well, the storm ended, as the bus stopped at the Saint Martin Canal area.  Perfect timing as my lunch was still in my hand.  I had been there twice before with friends for drinks and remembered how nice it was. The canals are located just east of Gare de L'est in the 10th arrondissement.  Cafes and shops line the quays on both sides of the canal.  The area is very eclectic, as my friend called it.  I would agree with him.  There were nannies ushering kids out of school, long-haired "college students" lounging around the canal in deep discussions, older men sitting and smoking, and others sitting along the canal reading or having a picnic.  I added myself to the mix, and had a quiet lunch along the banks.  The canal has several iron footbridges along it.  After lunch I strolled along the banks and over the footbridges exploring and taking some pictures.

  

At the southernmost point of the canal is the Square F. LeMaitre.  Also a great picnic and people watching spot with benches flanking the edges of the square.  Older men were gathered around a table playing cards, others were playing Petanque (the French version of Bocce Ball).  There were children all around, and there was even a ping pong table, with a fierce ping pong competition taking place. 

(Square F. LeMaitre at the end of the Saint Martin Canal)

Running between the canal and the Gare de L'est is yet another park, Square Villemin.  I will have to add both of these to my list, as the entire area is the perfect place to go to enjoy Paris without being in the chaos of a big city.  It's also a great place to go to waste away an afternoon.

I'm glad I forgot my umbrella because it got me on the bus.  I was reminded to take the bus more--it's a quicker way to see the entire city, and it brings me to places I had forgotten about or that I had never seen (I saw another park, a fountain, and a street with a lot of outdoor cafes, which I had never seen before and I'll need to explore further.)  And, if I didn't get on the bus today, you wouldn't get to see how lovely the Saint Martin Canal area is.  Here, I've posted a few pictures that I took.  If you would like to see more, you can go to here, to my Flickr photos, where I have many more photos of the Saint Martin Canal area and of Paris.  

Favorite Parks in Paris to Picnic, People Watch, or Just Rest Your Feet

(Jardin des Tuilleries)

I tried to walk off my dinner from last night by covering six arrondissements today, about a 10 mile journey in total.  The only problem with this plan is that I'm also trying not to look like a tourist and am wearing shoes that are more "Parisian looking." (I might also need to rethink wearing my wide-angle lens camera around my neck while I'm walking.)  I'm certain it's the shoes that will give me away, so I can't possibly think of wearing comfortable tennis shoes. 

Something else must be going wrong though, because the street vendors---you know the ones selling the Eiffel Tower key rings or that will sketch you "for free"--- they've started yelling, "Yes we can! Obama, Obama."  when I walk by.  First of all, how could they possibly think that I am American?  Don't they see the trendy black flats?  And, why do they think that by cheering for Obama, this will get me, or any other American, to buy their stuff?  Ya, I guess the trendy black flats idea isn't quite helping me blend.  And now, the two blisters I have on the ball of my left foot have turned into three.

(Square Vert Galant)

Instead of locating my list of 20 chocolate shops today, I spent a lot of time sitting on park benches resting my feet.  (I also realize that if I had found the 20 chocolate shops, I would have sabotaged my plan to walk off last night's dinner.)

(Square Rene Viviani)

Instead of chocolate, (you're getting sick of seeing all the food anyway, right?) I thought I'd share with you some of my favorite parks in Paris. It's amazing how many parks there are in this city.  Sometimes you're walking down the street and there's a tiny park, crammed into a corner or nestled in between two buildings.  Just around the corner from where I'm staying is a little park with a play area for kids and benches everywhere. And, it's right in the middle of an intersection of three large and busy streets.  Trees and flowers in full bloom create a border to block out the chaos of the streets outside. Even better are the ponds and fountains, which seem to wash away the noise and pollution.  I noticed that some of the parks even have WiFi access.  Not all of them, but the ones that do have a purple sign at the entrance informing you that they have WiFi and giving you the access code.  If only WiFi in Italy could be so easy to find. 

(Square de la Tour de Saint Jacques)

Here are my top park picks in Paris.  These are great places to picnic, share a bottle of wine, eat a pastry, read your email or a book, watch the city go buy, or just rest your blistered feet.

• Jardin du Luxembourg (6th arrondissement)-- massive park with many fountains, ponds, benches and chairs.  It's where you'll find crowds whenever the sun is shining.
• Champ de Mars (7th arrondissement) -- Long expanse of a park where you can sit on the grass with the Eiffel Tower looming over you.  This is THE place to be on Bastille day to picnic all day long, and in the evening enjoy the fireworks with the swarms of other holiday revelers.
• Square de la Tour de Saint Jacques (4th arrondissement)--small park off the Rue du Rivoli surrounding the Tower of Saint Jacques (the only thing that remains of the Church of Saint Jacques)
• Square Rene Viviani (5th arrondissement)--this park sits on the Quai Montebello right across from Notre Dame.  You can sit in the quiet square, work on your computer (it has WiFi), and gaze at the Rose Window.
• Jardin Marco Polo (6th arrondissement)--right outside the Jardin du Luxemburg heading toward Blvd. Montparnasse, this garden has the Fountain of the Four Parts of the World.  The mist from the running fountain will cool you off on a hot day.
• Jardin du Palais Royal (1st arrondissment)--with flowers in spring and summer and small fountains
• Place des Vosges (4th arrondissement) -- many trees for you to find shade and a fountain at each corner of the square.
• Square Vert-Galant (1st arrondissement)--at the end point of the Ile de la Cite, you can reach this garden at the middle of the Pont Neuf.  It's a great place to share a bottle of wine and watch the sun set.
• Square Jean XXIII (4th arrondissement) -- behind the cloister of Notre Dame, this park has a view of the flying buttresses of Notre Dame.  It also has Wifi access.
• Jardin des Tuilleries (1st arrondissement)--one of the biggest and most popular gardens in Paris.  You have ponds, lawns, chairs, sculptures, flowers and a view of the Louvre and its Pyramid.

(Jardin du Luxembourg)