Food Lover's Odyssey

French Pastry Making Classes in Provence

 

 

I'm so excited to finally be able to let you know about what I've been working on these past few months. This Summer and Fall (when I'm not in Puglia), I'll be cooking in Provence. And, I'm inviting you to come and cook with me! Yes, I'll be offering daily cooking classes and food tours in Aix-en-Provence (a new website and specific details of those to follow in the next week). I couldn't wait a week, not even another day, to tell you about this very sweet part. Those of you who've cooked with me and/or have been following this blog for a while know how intense my sweet tooth & joy of baking is. It was in the sweet kitchen that my love for food emerged. All things created with sugar, flour, butter, eggs & chocolate are my soul mates, but I have a special fondness for French pastries. So, let's start the Cooking in Provence announcement with dessert first!

 

 

This September please join me for a sugar-coated 6-day French Pastry Making Class in Provence. From a private kitchen in the center of Aix-en-Provence, you'll learn the basics of French pastry making. You'll create classic French pastries like the tart au citron, eclair, religeuse, mille feuille, l'Opera, St. Honore, some Viennoiserie and much more. This is a hands-on course where you'll learn by doing, and tasting. The class size is limited to 10 people, so each of you will receive plenty of one-on-one learning time. Each day will have a specific theme around a fundamental "building block" of French pastry. From there, we'll compose some of the classic French desserts and a few creative ones, too. 

 

Along with the pastry making classes, I've included several fun excursions in the sun-drenched south of France. On our first day togehter, your welcome to Aix-en-Provence includes a guided walking tour, wine & cheese tasting and dinner. After a few days together in the kitchen, we'll spend an evening together at the seaside town of Cassis. There we'll enjoy a guided tour and Pastis tasting before feasting on seafood. We'll also have two guided visits to pastry shops and a guided walk through a Provencal market. During the tour, you'll have free time to shop, soak up some culture and even some sun.

This pastry-making vacation is designed to increase your love of baking French pastries and for the south of France. It's for all levels of bakers and all types of travelers ~ girls' or guys' getaways, couples' vacations, solo travelers, mother-daughter bonding time, and family vacations. There's even space available for those non-cooking pals in your traveling group.

If you'd like to join me, details are listed below and on this page. All you need to do is send me an email at chefkathyayer {at} yahoo {dot} com. I'll send you the booking form and you'll be on your way to a fabulous food-lover's vacation and making pastries in Provence.

 

Market in Aix-en-Provence

 

What's included in the tour:

• NINE 3 1/2-hour French pastry classes ~ All are hands-on in a small group setting
• Welcome to Aix guided stroll through the city ending with a wine and cheese tasting
• Welcome dinner Sunday night in Aix-en-Provence
• Two Guided visits to patisseries with tastings
• Guided visit to a Provencal market
• Afternoon guided tour of Cassis, Pastis tasting and seafood dinner following the tour
• All lunches and three dinners, wine included with the meals
• Transportation to and from Aix-en-Provence for all the tour excursions
• Cook in Provence Pastry recipe book
• Cook in Provence apron and welcome gift bag, which includes my "Food Lover's Guide to Provence"

*Airfare, accomodations, transportation to and from Aix-en-Provence before and after the tour, meals not specified above, and travel insurance are not included.

NOTE: Although accomodations are not included, I can help you find and make lodging arrangements in and around Aix-en-Provence.

 

Dates and Details ~

Dates: September 8 through 13, 2013

Price: $1,850 per person

Maximum Class Size: 10 people

Deposit: A nonrefundable deposit of $600 per person is required to confirm enrollment.

Final Payment: Final payment is due by July 1, 2013

Payment Options: You can pay by credit card, bank transfer or check through PayPal

Non-cooking participants: Travel partners of those joining the pastry classes, who don't want to attend the pastry-making classes but would like to join us for the lunches, dinner and all other excursions, are welcome. The non-cooking price is $750.

 

Details: For more information and a detailed itinerary, see the page ~ Pastry-Making Vacation in Provence

How to book ~

Ready to taste the sweet life in Provence? Email me at: chefkathyayer [at] yahoo.com. I'll send you the booking form. You will need to pay the deposit and fill out the booking form to book and secure your space.

 

 

 

 

Food Finds in Aix-en-Provence with Tuula

 

One of the best things about blogging has been meeting others from all over the world, especially those who are as passionate about food, travel, Italy and France. Although much of this "meeting" is of the virtual type, I've been fortunate to meet in person many great food & travel bloggers in Italy and France. Last Fall, after much virtual "chatting," Tuula of Belle Provence Travels and I finally met in person! Tuula is as sweet and enthusiastic about France as her writing portrays. What I especially love about her blog is how she writes about the tiny tucked-away villages that many guidebooks miss. And she always seems to find the best food festivals in Provence!

Last October, Tuula and her very sweet, French, food-loving husband welcomed me into their home. It was such a treat to see Provence with these two food-loving locals.  Besides visting tiny seaside and hilltop villages, we had days filled with market visits, food fairs, long leisurely lunches, sauccison sampling, pastry nibbling, and we washed it all down with French wine.  As Tuula pointed out, this was all in the name of research, of course! We cooked toghether. At cafes under a mild Autumn sun or in cozy wine bars, we laughed together (a lot of time at my awful French pronunciation). And those Provençal views weren't bad either.

 

 

 

Aix-en-Provence is far from one of those undiscovered villages. Very well-known as Cezanne's birthplace, you can even follow in his steps, Aix is a city of art.  Thermal waters have flowed through the city since Roman times, so Aix is also a popular spa destination.  There are many reasons one might visit the city, but this a food lover's blog.  So we opted to wander through one of the many colorful markets of Aix, and enjoy a famous two-hour French lunch. Afterwards, under the guise of walking off our lunch, we found a few sweet treats of Provence. 

The Cours Mirabeau is one of the most beautiful boulevards in all of France. The trees line each side of the street and their leaves arch up and meet in the middle to create an arbor. Always bustling, the boulevard is the social center of the city. An outdoor seat at one of the restaurants along Cours Mirabeau, the Bastide du Cours, was our spot for lunch.  The menu formule, various combinations of starter/main dish/dessert or all three, is always a good value. With it you'll get good, not spectacular, bistrot and regional fare.  Of the restaurant's three menu formulas offered, we chose the "Gandolphe," a three-course meal for 19,50 euros.

Our starter was a religeuse of tomatoes and mozzarella. As it was the end of tomato season, this twist on the French pastry, was pretty but a bit bland.  Howerver, the braised jarret de porc (pork shank) with lentils from Puy was flavorful, falling-off-the-bone tender and belly warming.  We ended with a simple and classic, crème brûlée. The large dish of custard with a vane of burnt sugar on top gave the perfect textual contrast to the creamy custard.  Quite the opposite of a light lunch, we savored it slowly along with the surroundings and much girl-talk. The two-hour lunch, one of the best treats when traveling to France, actually flew by.

 

 

 

Our "foodie" day didn't end with the meal, either.  Walking through the streets that splinter off from Cours Mirabeau, we did a little wandering and found more!  Three sweets that popped up all day in Aix, and during my stay in Provece were calissons, navettes, and Tartes Tropéziennes.  So popular are they, that each has at least one interesting legend of its birth.

 

 

Calissons d'Aix - Made with equal parts blanched & ground almonds, sugar and candied fruit of orange peel & melons, they have a paper thin wafer at the bottom and are topped with royal icing. Legend has it that these almond shaped sweets were first introduced in 1454 at King Rene's second wedding in order to sweeten up his much younger, and possibly reluctant, bride Jeanne for their marriage. They are the specialty of the city and in every pastry window, candy shop, street market, everywhere. 

 

 

 

Navettes - A crunchy, barely sweet cookie, they are shaped like a boat to commemorate the arrival by boat of St. Lazarus, Mary Magdalene and Saint Martha to Provence over 2000 years ago.  A specialty of Marseille, they come in three traditional forms.  The navette traditionnel uses fleur d'oranger; the navette Marseillaise leaves out the orange flower water, and the navette Provençale has the fleur d'oranger and is also a little softer.  Nowadays you can find them with a variety of additions, like cinnamon, lavender, figs, etc.

 

 

 

 

Tarte Tropézienne - Actually a dessert of St. Tropez along the Côte d'Azur.  I think I saw more of this pastry in Provence than anywhere else outside of St. Tropez. As the story goes, the first Tarte Tropézienne was created by a Polish man, Alexandre Micka, who had a shop in St. Tropez.  He made this dessert along with pizzas and sandwiches for the crew filming, "And God Created Woman," starring Bridgitte Bardot. Bridgitte liked the dessert so much that she urged Alexandre to name it.  He did, the film was a success and is credited for making St. Tropez the popular resort town.

The tart is not really a tart but a big brioche bun. As Alexandre Micka's filling is a big secret, each pastry shop varies its version in an attempt to recreate his. Pastry cream and Kirsch liqueur are at the base of the filling. Some combination of butter, butter cream, meringue or whipped cream is added to the pastry cream and Kirsch. The top can vary, too.  I saw a dusting of powdered sugar with berries, a crumble, and also a pearl sugar on top.

Tartes Tropéziennes from Patisserie Bechard

 

 

 

There was also chocolate!  Puyricard chocolates, named after the village in Provence where a Belgian couple began their French chocolate making. Known as the chocolate company of Provence, Puyricard has 17 swanky shops - 13 in southern France and 4 in Paris.  Believe me it's hard to resist spending all your euros in the store. We got out of there quite cheaply, a 250-gram box of assorted (we picked them) chocolates were a mere 23 euros.  Along with delicious chocolates and calissons, they offer guided visits to their chocolate making facility in Puyricard and chocolate classes.

 

 

 

An MOF Patissier in Aix!  For those of you who've seen Kings of Pastry, you know the MOF, short for Meilleur Ouvrier de France (Best Worker in France) for pastry award isn't given out lightly.  Riederer's pastry chef, Phillipe Segond has the MOF title, and his pristine pastries are evidence of it.  The pastry shop is right on the Cours Mirabeau and full of so many pretty sweet things, I need to go back to try them all.

 

 

 

The oldest pastry shop in Aix. Patisserie Bechard, opened since 1870, was our first and last stop in Aix. Both times, it was packed with locals ordering their daily dose of French pastries. They had a huge selection of classic French and regional pastries and the place had a homey vibe. I could have spent all day in the shop. Their Tarte Tropézienne, a house specialty, was very good.

 

Join me in Provence for a French Pastry Culinary Vacation and learn how to create classic French pastries! I'm sure Tuula will make a guest appearance during the tour. Details here: Pastry-Making Vacation in Provence

 

 

 

Bastide du Cours
43/45/47 Cours Mirabeau
13100 Aix-en-Provence
Phone: +33 (0)4 42 26 10 06
Email: info@bastideducours.com

Riederer
67 Cours Mirabeau
13100, Aix-en-Provence
Phone: +33 (0)4 42 38 19 69

Puyricard
7-9, rue Rifle-Rafle
13100, Aix-en-Provence
Phone: +33 (0)4 42 21 13 26

Bechard
12 Cours Mirabeau
13100, Aix-en-Provence,
Phone: +33 (0)4 42 26 06 78

 

For information on dates and times of all the markets in Aix: Markets in Aix-en-Provence

 

 

Related Posts:

Christmas in France: Aix-en-Provence Christmas Market

Ten Places for Romantic Vacations in France

Food Lover's Walk in Paris Along Rue de Seine and Bonaparte

French Pastries and 10 Top Patisseries in Paris

Cours Saleya Market and a Picnic in Nice

Market Day in Sarlat

Frasier recipe

Meyer Lemon Tart inspired by Patisserie Gerard Mulot

Chocolate Eclairs

Four-Spice Palmiers

Paris Pastry Binge - Pierre Herme

Paris Pastry Binge - Some of the Best Pastry Shops in Paris

The Sweet Life in Aix-en-Provence (Belle Provence Travels)

 

France Roundtable: 10 Places for Romantic Vacations in France

 

Pin It

 

Welcome to the third installment of the monthly France Blogging Roundtable, a project organized by Christine Cantera of WhyGo France. The group includes Christine and four others of us who blog about France: Jennifer of Chez Lou Lou, Jamie of Life's a Feast, EuroCheapo, and me. Each month we'll share our unique perspectives on a predetermined topic about France. So pull up a chair to our Roundtable, have a croissant or an eclair, and join in on the conversation.  We'd love to hear your take on each month's topic and your comments.  This month's topic: Romance in France

 

What makes a place romantic?  I think the criteria is somewhat subjective. What's important to me is to be surrounded by water, preferably the sea. A river, lake, canal or pretty fountains will do, too.  Some might want cold and snow to cuddle, but I want warmer ambiance; green  vineyards, hills,  rugged cliffs, quaint little villages, maybe a castle or two, sidewalk cafes with wicker chairs, lush gardens and parks with ideal spots for picnics.  Promenades that invite walking arm-in-arm are necesary, too. Basically, I want my idea of a picturesque setting, one that encourages amorous feelings. 

Right now you might be thinking that I want WAY too much.  Not true, because when it comes to romantic settings, France really has all this and more. 

Today I'm suggesting 9 spots in France for romantic vacations.  For the 10th, I want to hear your opinion and am leaving it up to you to decide. My 9 choices may seem completely random, but they do have several common threads; the first being water. They each also live up to my above-mentioned list of criteria. That and, except for the last city on my list, on all my visits to these places I've been without a date!  Each time I've been to one of these romantic spots its been with groups of friends, my parents, or with nobody else except my camera to keep me company. Really, Cupid, you need to get better aim with that arrow.  So these cities are on what you might call my "bucket list for romantic vacations."  (Hey Cupid, are you listening?) 

 

Bordeaux

 

Vineyards and majestic wine houses sprawl out along both sides of the Gironde river.  An ideal lovers' vacation includes a cozy room surrounded by grapevines. Visits to wine houses and wine tastings include scenic drives through the various wine regions of Bordeaux. Wines in this region are not only for wine snobs and the elite.  No, there is a wine chateau and wine for everyone to enjoy.  Make an appointment for a tour beforehand and you should have no problems.  The Bordeaux tourist office, one of the most efficient and informative I've seen, also provides tours and they help with setting up independent visits. A great time to visit is during the Fete le Vin held bi-annually on the banks of the Gironde River in the city of Bordeaux.  This year, 2012, the wine festival will be held June 28 to July 1.

 

 

 

Cahors

The medieval bridge: Ponte Valentre over the Lot River

 

A few years ago, I spent a month in the Dordogne region getting to know its food and its photographic villages.  Cahors was extra special.  I love the way the Lot River wraps itself like a horseshoe around three quarters of the city center to give you the feeling you're on an island.  Lively Boulevard Gambetta, the main street of the town, reminded me of a mini Cours Mirabeau.  Like the famous street in Aix-en-Provence, sidewalk cafes, shops and trees filled both sides of the street. Take a boat ride around Cahors or a balloon ride over it. There is a mostly shaded walking path along the river bank. Like the river, the path curves around the town.  The green grass invites you to stop and have a picnic along the trail.  Cahors is known for its "black wine" and there are around 200 wines with the label. The Malbec grape makes the strong dark wine of the region.  Drives surrouned by vineyards, winery visits and tastings can easily be part of a trip here, too.

 

 

 

Sarlat

 

Also in the Dordogne, the medieval village of Sarlat makes for a nice base to explore the region.  Cobblestone streets, turreted buildings and small winding alleyways allow for hand-in-hand strolls, especially at night.  Market days are Wednesday and Saturdays. Then you can pick up picnic fare for your drive along the Dordogne river. Majestic castles span the hilltops that flank both sides of the river.  Boat rides in the historic gabares (17th & 18th century boats of the region) are my choice for seeing the Dordogne. Or take a dreamy drive through the valley where tiny medieval villages pop up along the countryside.  It seems each village has its own castle, too.  The pristinely pruned Gardens of Marqueyssac are nearby and also a good choice for a lovers' stroll.

 

 

Aix-en-Provence

Rotunda Fountain at the entrance to the Cours Mirabeau in Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence just might be my favorite Provencal town.  Fountains and flowing water are everywhere.  The tree-lined Cours Mirabeau has one sidewalk cafe after another.  The place to sit under the plane trees and enjoy the scenery.  Take a walk along one of the pedestrian streets that splinter off from Cours Mirabeau. Or enjoy a couples' spa day.  Aix has many spas fed by the natural themal springs that flow under the city.  These springs have been soothing aches and pains all the way back to Roman times.  During the summer months, you can see lavender fields forever with a ride along the Lavender Trail of Provence - Les Routes de la Lavande. 

 

 

Sanary-sur-Mer

 

 

This sleepy seaside town in the southeast of Provence is far off the tourist radar, but that only makes a more enjoyable to hideaway with the one you love.  With a daily provencal market right at the port and cafes that look out into the Mediterrenean, I instantly fell in love with this village during my visit with Tuula and her husband.  The lively market is open daily.  The water is a deep blue. The cafes are perfectly placed to look out on the harbor and the sea. There is a small beach nearby and the village has several pastry and other shops to make it an ideal spot for an amorous and relaxing seaside vacation. 

 

 

 

Cassis

Cassis is another cozy seaside village of Provence.  It too has cafes that follow the curve of the harbor.  In them you can enjoy the views of the sea and the bounty of this fishing village, generous seafood platters especially made for two. The main attraction are the Calanques (the steep limestone walled inlets).  Take a boat ride to the Calanques and then a moonlit walk around the harbor.

 

 

Strasbourg

 

Named an Unesco World Heritage Site, the main island (Grande Ile) is arguably the most beautiful part of Strasbourg.  Half-timbered houses with flower box windows, canals, and cafes that border the canals all add to the special ambiance in Strasbourg.  As the city is very near the German border, the German influences are evident, especially in the food.  Pretzels sit stacked on tables.  Sausae & choucroute (French for the Alsatian name for saurkraut- surkrut) and foie gras sit side-by-side on restaurant menus.   Enjoy any or all of these dishes at one of the cafes along the canal.  In the evening when the moon and the street lights dance on the water's surface, the romantic mood is even stronger.

 

 

Nice

 

If the blue Mediterrenean, seaside strolls, and awe-inspiring hilltop views are part of your requirements for a romantic setting, Nice should be on your list, too.  The Promenade des Anglais that curves with Nice's Bay of Angels is lovely for a stroll day or night. As is the pedestrian only Old Nice (Vieux Nice).  A picnic, with food from the Cours Saleya, atop Castle Hill will give you a view just like that in the photo above.  From Nice, the other cities and villages of the French Riviera (Cannes, Monaco, Antibes, Eze and more) are easily accesible by train.  Cuddle together while enjoying a train ride along the coast.  If your more adventurous, take a drive along the one of the three corniches along the Riviera coast. Old Nice, one of my favorite areas in the city day or night, is full of sidewalk cafes and cozy bars.

 

 

Paris

 

Although I have had a date or two in the city I once called home, I would never leave the city of love and lights off the list.  Paris has everything required for a romantic setting: the Seine River, the lights, bridges, canals, sidewalk cafes, an endless number of parks and outdoor markets to pick up picnic fare, tree-lined grand boulevards and cozy alleys.

 Along the Seine and the Canal St. Martin would be my top two picks for a stroll, especially at dusk, but an evening walk anywhere in Paris is tres romantique.  A picnic for two is a must.  What's in my picnic basket? A baguette, cheese, wine and, of course, Parisian pastries.  You'll find a park on almost every rue, but I would choose the banks of the Seine or under the Eiffel Tower at the Champs de Mars as places to lay my picnic blanket.

 

 

 

***************

For number 10, I want to hear from you!  Where would you go in France for a romantic getaway.  What criteria do you use to decide what makes a place "romantic?"

***************

 

Check out what the others have to say about romance in France:

•  Romance in France  from WhyGo France  

 

December's Roundtable Topic - Favorite French Art: Art and Chateau Vaux le Vicomte

January's Rountable Topic - French Comfort Food: Favorite French Comfort Food

 

 

 

France Roundtable: Favorite French Comfort Food

 

Welcome to the second installment of the monthly France Blogging Roundtable, a project organized by Christine Cantera of WhyGo France. The group includes Christine and four others of us who blog about France: Jennifer of Chez Lou Lou, Jamie of Life's a Feast, EuroCheapo, and me. Each month we'll share our unique perspectives on a predetermined topic about France. So pull up a chair to our Roundtable, have a croissant or an eclair, and join in on the conversation.  We'd love to hear your take on each month's topic and your comments.  This month's topic: French Comfort Food

When I think of comfort food in general; stews, soups, pork products, potatoes, creamy, cheesey, & buttery dishes immediately come to mind. Oh ya, and chocolate!  France's cold-weather cuisine and its many regional dishes definitely include many of those ingredients.  I would say that one of the top reasons to travel through France during the colder months is to taste some of these heartier seasonal and regional dishes that aren't always available and would be too heavy in the summer months.

I've been able to sample much of what France has to offer in the way of comfort.  Here are some of my favorite French comfort foods. Some are obvious ones of classic French cuisine, and others you might not have heard of before.  Most are savory, but you know I'm a dessert kinda girl, and no French comfort food post would be complete without some of my favorite French pastries:

 

Jarret de Porc aux Lentilles

This is a typical autumn/winter dish in Provence and other parts of the southern part of France. A pork shank is slow cooked, then placed on a bed of lentils (in the top photo), and the cooking is finished in a terra cotta dish.  I recently had this dish with Tuula during our food lover's day in Aix-en-Provence.   

 

 

Paupiette de Veau

One of my favorite dishes in France, these are simply veal rolls, stuffed and braised in wine.  I've made and had many with a pork sausage stuffing, but I also enjoyed a lighter version, one with breadcrumbs and parsley, at L'Epicuriste in Paris.

 

Confit de Canard

Confit de Canard (photo courtesy: Flickr PhOtOnQuAnTiQuE)

The French do duck best.  I make it a point to enjoy as many duck dishes as possible when I'm in France, but the one I enjoy the most is confit de canard.  Duck legs are slowly cooked in their own fat, confit. When ready to serve, they are fried up so that the skin is golden and crispy and the meat is ever so tender.  Definitely not to be missed.

 

 

 

Cassoulet

This hearty dish comes from Toulouse and the Gascony region in southwest France and is a bit complicated to make, but worth the effort.  If you're able to get someone to make it for you, all the better.  Named after the earthenware dish in which it's cooked, the cassoule, white beans, Toulouse sausage and duck legs confit are slowly cooked together then topped with a crispy crust.

 

 

Navarin d'Agneau

Navarin d'Agneau (photo courtesy Flickr: Kent Wang)

The French name sounds much fancier than its English version - lamb stew.  Tougher cuts of lamb stew together with root vegetables and wine.  It's also an easy dish to recreate at home. 

 

Gratin Dauphinois

Layers upon layers of potatoes, cream and cheese, finished with a crunchy topping.  This might be the epitome of comfort cuisine in France, and elsewhere.

 

 

Boeuf Bourguignon

Boeuf Bourguignon (photo courtesy Flickr: mulberrymint)

Classic French cuisine, this famous beef stew is made with Burgundy wine with pearl onions and carrots as its tradtional accoutrement. It was made even more popular in the U.S. by Julia Child.

 

 

Viennoiserie

 

Although they hail from Austria (hence the name), these flaky, buttery breakfast pastries are symbols of France and French pastries, especially the croissant.  All mornings should start out with a few flakes of pastry remains on your lap.  My favorites are pains aux chocolat and chaussons aux pommes.  What are yours?

 

 

Tart Tatin

 

Legend has it that the Tatin sisters messed up in making a tradtional apple tart, and this caramelized "upside-down" apple tart was the result.  Apples, caramel, flaky pastry; this warms my insides just talking about it.

 

Creme Brulee

Cooked custard with a crunchy sugar crust?! Enough said.

 

 

Tart au Citron

 

Yes, this dessert is a bright yellow ball, making you think of sun and summer.  Although you can get a tart citron year-round in France, (and I do) lemons are actually a winter fruit.  One of the reasons I look forward to winter is because I have a lemon tree that supplies me with lemons for this dessert and many more.

 

  Eclairs

 

I'm often asked which French pastry is my favorite.  I always qualify the question by asking "to make or to eat?"  Although I love putting together different mousses, ganaches, creams & cakes to make many French desserts, the eclair is my favorite to eat.  My all-time favorite flavor, a chocolate eclair with choclate pastry cream makes me think of both Paris & my mom.  I do have to say that the Pur Caramel Eclair from Cafe Pouchkine is a close second.

 

 

Check out what the others have to say about comfort food in France:

• French Comfort Food  from WhyGo France
  
• Paris Food Stuffs: Best Places for Cheap and Yummy Eats  from EuroCheapo
• Galette Des Rois - King's Cake  from Life's a Feast
  

 

December's Roundtable Topic - Favorite French Art: Art and Chateau Vaux le Vicomte

 

***************

What is your favorite French Comfort Food?

***************

Tastiest Tales of 2011

 

It's been both an amazing and unbelievable year of tasty travels for me.  Before we move into 2012, I'm sharing a few highlights from the year.  Here are my picks for the "tastiest tales" of 2011 from Food Lover's Odyssey.

 

 

 

Chocolate and Pastries - You know I'm a firm believer in starting with desserts, so let's begin with the sweet stuff.

 

This year I attended two of the biggest chocolate festivals in Italy - CioccolaTo in Turin and Eurochocolate in Perugia. Along with tons of chocolate to sample at both festivals, the display of Italy and its monuments made out of chocolate at CioccolaTo and the views of the Umbrian valley from Eurochocolate's Spalm Beach and Piazza Italia stand out in my mind.

And even more chocolate, this time in Paris, Easter chocolates in Paris.

Speaking of Paris, I enjoyed a pastry binge so big that I had to write not one, but two posts about it.

Paris sweets also inspired this chocolate eclair recipe (well, Paris & Mother's Day) and a salted butter caramel ice cream recipe from Berthillon.

There were a few other pastry binges, err, I mean photo journeys I made: one through the pastries of Napoli and the other through the pastries of Lecce.

Again this year, I participated in World Nutella Day, making Nutella Love Cakes for the February celebration.

 

 

 

Carnival in Venice was truly magical and just writing about it makes me want to search airfares for Carnival 2012.  Besides gawking over the costumes & posers in St. Mark's Square, I'm certain I consumed a year's worth of Carnival fritelle & thick hot chocolate. In between sweets, I also went on a fantastic food walk with Monica and ate my way through some of the best cicchetti bars in Venice.

 

 

 

 

Puglia - Another standout in a year of travel highlights was my trip to Puglia. I loved it so much, I actually made two trips this year.  Pasta making with Nonna Vata, a special lunch for me at Cantine Menhir, the frantoio ipogeo (ancient underground olive mill) at Masseria L'Astore, cooking with Chef Paola, making and eating fresh cheese, dining on traditional regional dishes at Locanda Rivoli, and crashing a wedding were just a few of the many highlights from my culinary journey in Salento.

 

 

 

Napoli is a city I love as much as I love chocolate.  I still remember how fat and happy I was after five days of Neapolitan pizza on my pizza lover's odysey.  I met up again with fellow Napoli-philes, Bonnie & Steve from Napoli Unplugged. They took me to some of their favorite dining spots in Naples.  Bonnie & I also attended a class on Genovese & other Neapolitan sauces at Citta del Gusto.  Between all this food, I did do some walking, along Spaccanapoli & Naples' Historic Center, and driving riding, along the Amalfi Coast.

 

 

 

 

Rome - "una vita non basta." And if an entire lifetime isn't enough to discover the city, a few weeks is certainly not enough to eat my way through it.  In that short time though, I was able to eat more pizza, pizza al taglio at Bonci's Pizzarium, take a food tour in Testaccio and sample one of the best carbonara's ever at Da Danilo.  A walk in Rome at night and a day trip through the fountains at Villa d'Este helped me walk off some of those carbs. I'm hoping in 2012 to carve out enough room in my stomach for a month's worth of eating my way through the eternal city.  All the artichokes I had during March in Rome, and elsewhere in Italy, inspired this Artichoke & Spinach ravioli recipe.

 

 

 

 

Paris - Besides all the aforementioned sweets in Paris, I did a little dining in the city that I once called home.  L'Epicuriste was one of my most memorable meals of the year.  Paris & its environs were the scene of two new series here on FLO, Food Lovers' Walks in Paris and the France Blogging Roundtable.  For December's Roundtable blogging theme, I took an Autumn trip to Chateau Vaux le Vicomte.

 

 

 

Dining with a count in Lombardy - A combination of royalty & risotto definitely makes this year's tastiest tales highlight reel.

 

 

 

 

Provence - Although I've only shared photos of  my time in Provence, I have much to write about the good eats and good times there with Tuula.

 

 

 

 

Christmas - I spent most of the Christmas holidays away this year, seeing the Christmas markets along the Danube River.  While I was away, friends from around Italy and France stopped by to share Christmas treats & traditions from Rome, Venice, Naples, Salento & Provence.  A huge thanks to them, and I so enjoyed the posts, I hope to see more like them next Christmas.

 

 

 Wishing all of you a 2012 full of happiness, great food, friends & travel!

 

 

Here are a few things I'm looking forward to sharing with you in 2012:

• Cooking in Puglia - I'll be cooking in Puglia and am inviting you to join me!

• There will be even more recipes from my travels and a new series: Paris Pastry Stories

• So much more to share from my culinary travels, especially those in Provence, Paris - both the sweet & savory side, and Piedmont.

• Sunday's roundup, Italy on a Plate, will continue in 2012.

 

 

 

***************

What are some of your tastiest tales from 2011?  What would you like to see more of from Food Lover's Odyssey in 2012?

***************

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Christmas in France: Aix-en-Provence Christmas Market

 

 

I have another friend stopping by, this time from France, to share a little Christmas in Provence.  I'm welcoming Tuula, an American expat living in Provence. She is the author of the beautiful blog and travel site, Belle Provence Travels.  On her site, Tuula shares much of magical Provence with us, while discovering out-of-the-way little villages and markets along the way.  After meeting her virtually via our blogs, I had the great fortune of meeting Tuula in person during my trip to France in October.  It was one of the highlights of my trip. She took me to little villages on hills, outdoor food markets, wine tasting and on several other culinary adventures - all of which you'll be hearing about soon.  Today we're talking Christmas, as she shares a day at the Christmas market in Aix-en-Provence - and many of the treats on offer at the market.  Enjoy!

 

Being an American living abroad certainly has its ups & downs, but undoubtedly one of the high points of residing in the beautiful land of France is the chance to experience the Christmas season... à la française.

What France may lack in splashy decorations (believe me, I really do miss my sparkly, pot-bellied Santa from home), it more than makes up for in simple sophistication.  Holiday traditions in Provence, as in other French regions, are quite a subdued affair - full of elegant pine trees (les petits sapins), lots of twinkling white lights (think woodsy meets Coco Chanel), and thankfully, a Christmas market in almost every city.

Which brings us to perhaps one of the most quintessentially Provençal cities of all: Aix-en-Provence.  It's difficult not to fall under the spell of this charming university town which somehow manages to do "high-brow" and "stone-washed village" all at the same time.

Having visited this southern gem on many an occasion, I can safely say Aix really shines during the holiday season - and nowhere is this more apparent than at the annual Christmas market.  This past weekend, I braved the somewhat less-charming holiday crowds to shop the "snowy" chalets lining the main boulevard of Aix: Cours Mirabeau.

Representing not only Provençal specialties, including many of the key ingredients needed to make the famed 13 desserts of Christmas, the market was filled with traditional French favorites.  Chocolates of all shapes & sizes, macarons, cookies (navettes from Marseille & calissons from Aix), mulled wine (vin chaud), and gingerbread - to be served beneath a huge slab of fois gras, of course.

This is a French Christmas after all...no skimping on taste or quality by any means.  And if you ever happen to be this far dans le sud (in the south), you may just want to check out the Christmas market in my town.  Oyster bar anyone?

 

"Gingerbread man" - Pain d'Epices vendor at the market

 

 

Calissons - Almond paste "cookies" from Aix in holiday colors

 

 

A French Christmas market isn't complete without macarons

 

Navettes - Cookies from Marseille

 

Buches de Noel

 

Boules de Mousse - in the shape of Christmas bells

 

Santons de Provence

 

 

*All photos in this post are courtesy of Tuula - Belle Provence Travels

 

Related Posts:

Christmas Around Italy: 10 Addresses for Christmas Sweets in Rome

Christmas Around Italy: Traditional Venetian Christmas Dinner

Christmas Around Italy: Christmas Traditions in Naples

Holiday Dessert Recipes

Paris Christmas Market: La Defense - Belle Provence Travels

A Day at the Market with Chef Kathy  - Belle Provence Travels

 

 

France Roundtable: Art and Chateau Vaux le Vicomte

 

Welcome to the first installment of the monthly France Blogging Roundtable, a project organized by Christine Cantera of WhyGo France. The group includes Christine and four others of us who blog about France: Jennifer of Chez Lou Lou, Jamie of Life's a Feast, EuroCheapo, and me. Each month we'll share our unique perspectives on a predetermined topic about France.  This month's topic is “Favorite Art in France.” So pull up a chair to our Roundtable, have a croissant or an eclair, and join in on the conversation.  We'd love to hear your take on each month's topic and your comments.

 

Two things initially brought me to Vaux le Vicomte.  First, I'm a sucker for French castles.  If there's a castle in the area, I'm there.  Even though I'm usually mocking the eccentricities of the very rich, I have to give them credit. Their eccentricities and patronage have brought us great works of art.  Also, being a huge fan of Alexandre Dumas and his many books that take place in France, I went to Vaux le Vicomte in search of  "The Man in the Iron Mask."  There was no man in a mask. Instead I fell in love with the castle and its gardens. Restored to their original grandeur, the castle and the gardens tell the story of its past and are whimsical enough to invite inspiratioin, wonder and new creativity.

The castle was the idea of Nicolas Fouquet, minister of finances for King Louis XIV. He set out to build the finest chateau in France and hired the architect, Louis le Vau, the interior designer, Charles le Brun, and the landscape artist, Andre LeNotre to help. Unfortunately for Fouquet, he was a little too successful.  His creatiion also set in motion his demise.  King Louis XIV asked to see the place.  Fouquet had a feast prepared for the king and an evening of lavish entertainment that ended in an elaborate fireworks display, one that had them coming from everywhere, even the top of the castle's dome. 

The king didn't like being upstaged by one of his employees, and three weeks after the fete, Fouquet was arrested for embezzlement.  A trumped up charge, Fouquet spent the rest of his life in prison, dying 19 years later.  King Louis XIV took le Vau, le Brun and LeNotre and had them create a new castle, bigger and better than Vaux le Vicomte.  Versailles was born, its size and its gardens tripling that of Vaux le Vicomte.  The king also took statues, tapesties and the orange trees from Vaux le Vicomte.

Though it's no longer the biggest castle in France, Vaux le Vicomte has been restored to its majestic form, one which dominates the gardens from every angle and where its reflection shimmers in the garden's lakes.  My favorite part of the castle is the domed Grand Salon, and well of course, the kitchen.  The kitchen, too, has been fixed and furnished as it was in Fouquet's time (late 1600s).  The gardens are what I love the most. Can a garden be considered art?  I think so.  Meticulously placed lakes, ponds, grottoes, fountains, sculptures and shrubs fill the garden, while a square shaped canal frames the castle. The garden is the place where art and nature come together and inspire.

 

  

"To Create a Garden is to paint a landscape." ~ Alexander Pope

 

A summer's eve at Vaux le Vicomte

 

In the summer, candlelights are set throughout the gardens and along the castle's window sills. The fountains come alive to a musical display.  There's also another reason to love Vaux le Vicomte.  For the last four years during the first weekend in November, the castle has been transformed into un Palais du Chocolat.  Chocolate and chocolatiers take over for the weekend and turn the castle into a chocolate lover's paradise.  Just missing the chocolate festivities this year, (I'll make sure to see them next year, though) I visited the castle again this Autumn to find the garden just as beautiful and adorned with the colors of Fall.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Inside the Castle:

 

 

The kitchen restored its the 17th century look

 

 

The castle, rarely crowded, is an easy 25-minute ride on the train or RER from Paris to Merlun.  On the weekends, there is a shuttle bus that will take you to and from the Merlun train station.  On other days, you need to take a taxi from Merlun's station.  If you're visiting Paris during December, Vaux le Vicomte celebrates Christmas at the castle.

 

Check out what the others have to say about art in France:

• Favorite French Art  from WhyGo France
  
• Favorite Art in France  from Chez Lou Lou
• Paris Art Museums: Admission, Charges and Discounts  from EuroCheapo

 

***************

What is your favorite art in France?

***************

Paris Pastries Binge - Some of the Best Pastry Shops in Paris

 

 

I know, I've made you wait much too long for the second part of my Paris Pastry Binge, but it's finally here.  Besides the binge at Pierre Herme, I sampled sweets at some of the best pastry shops in Paris.  Major flavor players in this binge were chocolate, caramel & pralinè, but there were also a few citrus and pistachio notes included in my sweet selection.

 

Cafe Pouchkine

 

Foret Noire

Eclair Pur Caramel

Noir d'Or

Silver serving plates & tea pots, a pastry case with gilded ornamention, fine china, marble columns, and a glass-topped bar; its opulence was enough to bring you back to the 19th century and a salon de the of nobility.  I adored this place! If I were ever have a patisserie of my own, I would want it to look like this one.  The pastries, mostly French with a Russian twist, are as fancy as the salon.  Each and every pastry was exquisite and finished with a dusting of gold.  The teeny tiny shop is on the ground floor of the Printemps Mode store. The pastry window looks onto the street and beckons even the most anti-carb person to indulge inside.  We sampled only three patisseries, and it took at least 20 minutes to decide which three.

The Forêt Noire (black forest) had all the elements of a classic black forest cake, chocolate, creme chantilly and Kirsch-soaked cherries. All set inside a chocolate cup.  This was my friend's favorite, and because of that, I think I had only some of the chocolate topping and a cherry.  It's ok though, as I didn't share much of the Caramel Pur Caramel with her.  The eclair, generously filled with a light caramel pasty cream, had an extra suprise inside, thick & gooey vanilla bean caramel.  The choux croustillante, seems to be the trend as we saw the crumbly covering on almost all choux pastries in Paris, added a bit of texture to the creamy eclair; perfect for caramel lovers. (I'll certainly be recreating this one at home!).  Also very good was the Noir d'Or (black gold).  Honey-scented chocolate mousse, vanilla cream, and a very thin layer of crostillante on top of an almond biscuit cake.

 

 

Carl Marletti

 

 

 

  
Aveline

 

Desir

 

Carl Marletti Patisserie is a little pastry shop situated at the south end of rue Mouffetard in the 5^th arrondissement.  A sleek long and narrow shop with the pastries laid out in a case that stretches the length of the shop. I love his choux pastries and must admit that we sampled one not photographed.  Oops, forgetting to take a photo of the Regligeuse Pistache, we devoured the little "nun" filled full with pistachio cream.  The Aveline is a symphony of hazelnuts and praline, with another choux croustillante. It's sliced and filled with two types of pralinè cream, caramel and candied hazelnuts.  The Desir is a chocolholics' dream, chocolate mousse on a chocolate biscuit with a sliver of chocolate croquant adding just a bit of crunch. All of it is coated in a chocolate glaze and topped with cacao nibs.

 

 

 

La Patisserie des Reves

 

 

 

 
Selection of Italian pastries from Patisserie des Reves

 

Viennoiserie and the Limonata

 

Paris Brest from Patisserie des Reves

 

Pastry chef Phillipe Contacini adds much playfulness to his pastry shop of dreams and to his pastries, recreating classics in avant-garde and childlike twists.  We sampled his flower-shaped Paris Brest, named the best Paris-Brest in Paris by Le Figaro. It lived up to its billing. A pralinè coulant oozes out of the center of each ball of pralinè pastry cream.  We also tried the Limonata.  It was better in theory than execution.  A combination of lemon cream and meringue muddled together in the shape of a lemon, it was too sweet and had little lemon flavor.

 

 

 

Hugo & Victor

 

 
Kaffir Lime Tart (combawa) with a white chocolate "cover"

 

Hugo Chocolat pastry

 

Hugo & Victor Chocolates

 

 

Their website states: "Welcome to Haute Patisserie," and the pastry shop is just as haughty at Hugo & Victor.  Pastries sit on stands behind glass casings like jewels in a jewelry shop and the chocolates come in Moleskin-like boxes.  Although you feel as if you must speak in hushed tones in the store, the staff was very jovial and helpful.  The Kaffir Lime Tart (combawa) is a brillant burst of citron in a crunchy, albeit strangely colored, short crust. The Hugo Chocolat  blends tonka bean and lime together with chocolate mousse.  Diced candied lime dot the lime-syrup infused chocolate torte.  I also tried a few of the financiers the size of a 2 euro piece.  My friend laughed at me as I paid 1.50 euros for each.  Except for the little bit of combawa creme on the lemon financier, they were a dry disappointment.

Sadly for me, but not for my wallet or waistline, the Paris pastry binge of 2011 has come to and end.  I'm sure I'll have more pastries to share with you on my next visit.

 

Addresses of patisseries visited:

Café Pouchkine
64 Boulevard Haussmann (8th arr.)
in the Printemps Mode store
+33 (0)1 42 82 43 31

Carl Marletti
51 rue Censier (5th arr.)
+33 (0)1 43 31 68 12

Patisserie des Reves
93 rue du Bac (7th arr.)
+33 (0)1 42 84 00 82

Hugo & Victor
40 Boulevard Rasp ail (7th arr.)
+33 (0)1 44 39 97 73

 

 Join me in Provence for a French Pastry Culinary Vacation 2013 and learn how to create some of these and other classic French pastries! Details here: Pastry-Making Vacation in Provence

 

Related Posts:

Paris Pastry Binge - Pierre Herme

French Pastries and Ten Top Patisseries in Paris

Paris Walks for Food Lover's - Rue de Seine and Bonaparte

Journey Through the Pastries of Paris - Part One

Journey Through the Pastries of Paris - Part Two

The Dish from France: Viennoiserie

Cooking Classes for the Culinary Traveler in Paris

L'Epicuriste - Dining in Paris

Fraisier

Chocolate Eclairs with Chocolate Pastry Cream

Meyer Lemon Tart Topped with a Lightened Lemon Cream

Four-Spice Palmiers

Croustade aux Pommes - Flaky Apple Tart Inspired by Lunch at Pavillion Margaux

 

Paris Pastries Binge - Pierre Herme

 

 

Paris pastry samplings are one of the things I most look forward to whenever I visit the city.  This trip I binged sampled so many I felt a sugar coma coming on. The samplings started and ended with Pierre Herme.  Although some of my friends complain about Chef Herme's higher prices, his pastries and macarons never dissapoint.  Simply and impeccably decorated, the flavors are as flawless as each little pastry jewels' appearance. There is a reason he's the highest priced patissier in town. The problem is that when you start a Paris pastry binge with Pierre Herme, it creates a high standard for the other pastry shops to live up to.  And, many of them don't.

We started with some from the current "fetish" line or special of the season: vanilla and ended with macarons.  Right now Chez Herme has an array of Infiniment Vanille (Intensely Vanilla) specials on offer. We tried two, and each lived up to its promise. All of the various creams in the pastries generously use three kinds of vanilla; from Madagascar, Tahiti and Mexico. I also really wanted to bite into one of those fat vanilla eclairs, but that will have to be for the next PH pastry binge. 

 

Infiniment Vanille selection of pastries from the rue Vaugirard shop

 

Tart Infiniment Vanille

 

This tart starts off with a crunchy pate sable (shortbread crust) at its base, giving some crunchy texture to balance all the creamy vanilla-ness that follows. On the tart's crust lies a vanilla bean and white chocolate ganache. For more vanilla, a lady-finger disc is soaked in vanilla simple syrup and nestled into the ganache.  At the very top, rests a thick disk of vanilla and mascarpone cream.

 

Infiniment Vanille pastry

 

A dense and slightly crunchy almond-vanilla macaron cake holds a layer of vanilla mousseline cream (pastry cream, butter and vanilla) and a layer of the vanilla and mascarpone cream.  It has less textural contrast than the tart and wasn't as powerful on the vanilla flavor, even though each cream again has a combination of the three types of vanilla.  What it lacked in vanilla overload, though, it made up for in creaminess.  I liked the pairing of almonds and vanilla together, too.

 

 

The thing about macarons are that they can be too sweet, as they already have a lot of sugar in the cookie, which is egg whites, sugar and ground almonds. When the filling is jam, more sugar, the entire macaron is much too sweet for my palate.  Pierre Herme understands how to perfectly balance the filling and the cookie. Although sometimes a bit odd or avant-garde, his fillings contrast use flavors that are fatty, creamy, salty and sometimes savory to create macaron bliss.  These were my favorites from his selection (from right to left):

Infiniment Chocolat - Intensely chocolate filling made with a single origin Venezualan chocolate for the chocolate ganache filling. 

Infiniment Vanille - Again for lovers of all things vanilla, there is the infiniment vanille macaron.  White chocolate and vanilla bean ganache is the filling, and I would say this macaron is more intensely vanilla flavored than the tart. 

Huile d'Olive & Vanille - Olive oil and the white chocolate & vanilla ganache pair to make the filling for the green macaron. I preferred this to the infinement vanille because the olive oil offsets some of the sweetness of the white-chocolate based ganache.

Infiniment Caramel - Still my all-time PH macaron favorite. This is for lovers of caramel, especially the salted-butter kind.  A buttercream of caramel and salted butter is the perfect salty, fatty foil to the sweet macaron cookie.

Caraquillo - One of the new flavors for the September re-entry from vacation line, this ganache filling blends together chocoate, coffee and anice flavors and definitely puts this macaron in my top three of all of them. 

 

Other selections from the Pierre Herme pastry case

 

I'll soon share more pastries from my pastry binge at some of the other best pastry shops in Paris.

 

Pierre Herme - There are several locations in Paris - These are the patisseries I visited:

185 rue de Vaugirard - Metro stop: Pasteur

72 rue Bonaparte - Metro stop: St. Sulpice

Macarons and Chocolates only: 4 rue Cambon - Metro stop: Concorde or Madeleine

Most indivudual pastries cost 6 to 6.50 euros and mini macarons cost 72 euro a kilo (I paid 8.50 euros for the 5 above)

 

 

***************

Where is your favorite pastry shop, Paris or in another city?  What is your favorite pastry?

***************

 

 

 

Related Posts:

French Pastries and Ten Top Patisseries in Paris

Paris Walks for Food Lover's - Rue de Seine and Bonaparte

Journey Through the Pastries of Paris - Part One

Journey Through the Pastries of Paris - Part Two

The Dish from France: Viennoiserie

Cooking Classes for the Culinary Traveler in Paris

Fraisier

Chocolate Eclairs with Chocolate Pastry Cream

Meyer Lemon Tart Topped with a Lightened Lemon Cream

Four-Spice Palmiers

Croustade aux Pommes - Flaky Apple Tart Inspired by Lunch at Pavillion Margaux

L'Epicuriste - Dining in Paris

 

Those of you who follow Food Lover's Odyssey on Facebook have had a sneak preview of my pastry binge sampling in Paris.  That's not all I've been sampling though.  I've had a few fabulous meals, too.  My dinner at L'Epicuriste was one of the best of those meals. Making it even better was the very reasonable price.  Serving "bistrot classics revisted" according to Gault-Millau, a friend and I had a 3-course meal priced at 34 euros per person.

Once inside, the interior doesn't make you think French bistrot.  The dark wood tables, metal accents, and modern lighting could easily make you think you're dining in any U.S. city.  Well, that is until they set the chalk board at your table with the evening's fare listed solely in French.  The couple next to us saw us struggling with a few words and happily went through the entire list of dishes.  They also mentioned that the wine list was great.  When our very warm and welcoming waiter suggested a red from the Rhone, we went with it.  It paired perfectly with our meal. 

 

 

 

For the starter, I dove mouth-first into their terrine of foie gras.  A thick slice of it is served with a quenelle of fig, raisin and apricot jam.  Creamy, rich and always a must for me when in France.  My friend went with a lighter pumpkin soup, which he devoured faster than I did my dish.  Between slurps he mentioned something about crunchy bits of bacon/lardons in the soup that made it very nice.

 

 

My main course was a classic French dish, paupiette de veau. Traditionally the veal is pounded thin, stuffed with sausage and seasonings, and wrapped with a thin lining of caul fat.  It's then seared and braised.  This version was a lighter one, stuffed with a mix of parsley, garlic and breadcrumbs and instead rolled and tied at each end.  Served on a bed of potatoes and carrots with a veal sauce. It was cooked perfectly to a beautiful pink color and so tender I was tempted to cut it with my fork. Bliss. My friend took the recommendation from our dining neighbors and had the porcelet (baby pork) confit on a bed of daikon radish.  A little twist on the classic sausage and saurkraut Alsatian dish, the radish was served in the Alsatian "choucroute" style.

 

 

 

 

The dessert was a nice ending to an already great meal.  I had the "mi-cuit chocolat." The molten chocolate flowed out of the cake and into a "soup" of pineapple and passion fruit juice. I've seen the molten cake a lot, but it's usually paired with whipped cream or creme anglaise.  I especially liked the acidity of the soup, which played nicely against the very dense dessert.  Again, my friend was extremely happy with his dessert, devouring any before I could get a taste.  His was a rice pudding with a fruit compote at the bottom.

Classic dishes (sometimes with a little twist or addition), simple preparations and perfect execution, the meal was also a very good value for the price. The foie gras was an extra 5 euros. Our half-bottle Hermitage appellation wine was 22 euros.  Both my friend and I agreed that this was one of the best meals of our week in Paris.  So great, I might be back again before I leave Europe.  

 

L’Epicuriste
41 Boulevard Pasteur - 75015
01 47 34 15 50
Metro: Pasteur
Closed: Sunday & Monday

 

 

Related Posts:

Dining Solo at Mon Vieil Ami

A Night at Atelier Joel Robuchon

Paris Food Walks: Rue de Seine and Bonaparte

French Pastries and Ten Top Patisseries in Paris