Food Lover's Odyssey

Christmas Around Italy: 10 Addresses for Christmas Sweets in Rome

Christmas lights on Via del Corso in Rome

 

This week and next, some friends from Italy are "stopping by" on Food Lover's Odyssey.  They'll be sharing a little bit of Christmas Around Italy from their part of the bel paese.  Today, a big welcome to Tavole Romane (Roman Tables)! Their reviews of Roman eateries (now in both Italian and English) have been regular features on my weekly roundup Italy on a Plate.  Tavole Romane also provides food tours in Rome, and today they are taking us on a virtual stroll through Rome in search of sweets for Christmas, and Hanukkah. Enjoy!

 

 

Let’s bring our attention to Christmas, in a “gourmet” way. There are the savory treats: tortellini, cappone, bollito, capitone, and “frittelle” made of fried dough filled with baccalà or vegetables. And still, there are the sweet Christmas treats: panettone, pandoro, struffoli, panforte, torrone...the list could go on forever! For those of you who are into the gastronomic side of Italy, all of this surely reaches immediately to your head and senses. So, let us focus on the “sweet” side of the gastronomic sensation and let us turn it into reality! How? Follow us through a quick Roman “passeggiata” as we walk through 10 special sweet addresses in Rome.

 

 

 

Let us begin with pastries and sweets which have a pure and radical ROMAN IDENTITY.
This category's main ingredients are dried fruits, raisins, honey, spices and chocolate. Various combinations of these ingredients come together to create different pastries: panpepato (a peppered bread based on fruit, almonds, nuts, honey, and peppered chocolate), pangiallo romano (made with dried fruit, nuts, almonds, pine nuts and sweetened by the addition of sultanas to result in a relatively low-sugar content), mostaccioli romani (diamond shaped sweets covered in chocolate and nuts, almonds, fruit and honey) and the classical torrone (soft and white nougat, with honey, almonds and pistachios, and sugar coated).

 

1) Pasticceria Valzani - An earlier post of ours referred to “Those sweets which set time still...” and that motto does justice to the production of this bakery! Valzani has always been in the same location and has been producing the same high-quality pastries since 1925. They are famous for their preparation of chocolate-based products, such as Sacher Torte, Easter eggs and pralines as well as for their Mont Blanc and their seasonal specialties. At Christmas time of course you can find the traditional products: pangiallo, panpepato, roman mostaccioli and the classical torrone along with variations characterized by different coatings such as pine nuts, pistachios, and chocolate. (Their web site provides for on-line purchase of their products.)
Address: Via del Moro 37 (Trastevere), tel. 06.5803792, closed on Monday and Tuesday morning

2) Pasticceria Regoli - Another pastry shop with a 100-year tradition like Valzani.  As you enter the place you can see their claim to have been in this business “since 1916!" Over the years they have consistently been among the top producers of pastries in Rome (according to us at least!). Definitely worth mentioning are the outstanding profiteroles, maritozzo (a dough filled with cream) and “bavarese." For Christmas, of course, pangiallo and roman mostaccioli.
Address: via dello Statuto 60 (Esquilino), tel. 06.4872812, closed on Tuesday.

3) Panella l'Arte del Pane - As old as the previous ones, we have another business started in the twenties, 1922 being the actual start. Panella is like a casket full of baked products. (and not only that!) They also have sweet and savory selections. Over Christmas the shop windows are filled with a variety of torrone and other Christmas delicacies. Watch out not to empty your wallet here!
Address: via Merulana 54 (Esquilino), tel. 06 4872435, open every day.

 

 

Sufganiot (photo courtesy of savtadotty - Flickr )

 

Let us tour now around the JEWISH TRADITION.
True, Christmas is not a Jewish celebration. However, you should not miss a walk through the Ghetto in Rome, where you can find a number of delicious products which come out for the "festival of Lights" hanukkà. Fried sweets in this season: specifically Latkes (sort of potato pancakes in sour cream) and Sufganiot (donut filled with jam or custard and covered in sugar, they bring back to memory the roman "bomba"). And after a quick immersion into the Jewish tradition let us take a look at the addresses. We cannot be positive you shall find latkes e sufganiot in the places we suggest, but these are undoubtedly among the best in Rome when it comes to the Jewish tradition.

 

4) Boccione - A must in the Ghetto! The place looks exactly like it did in the old times. You can easily find a line at the entrance. After a short wait you will be able to collect your “ricotta and visciole” or “ricotta and cioccolato” tart, or sweets based on dried fruit, honey and “beridda bread." In this season, as well as over the rest of the year, you should rely on the “house suggestions” and you will be happy.
Address:  via del Portico d’Ottavia 2 (Jewish Getto), tel. 06 6878637, closed on Saturday. Kosher-certified.

5) Il Mondo di Laura - Here we come across  a little of magic: mixing Kosher tradition, the international experience of Laura Raccah, and high-quality ingredients, to get a number of different cookie productions. So, over Christmas time, stop by and fill in a box with nuggets, candy spice, "miss cioccolatissima," "green lady" and many more. The products are available at their direct sale point as well as at resellers (such as Castroni).
Address:  via della Reginella 18 b (Ghetto) or via Tiburtina 263 (close to Bologna subway stop), tel. 06.5880966, closed on Saturday and Friday afternoon. Kosher-certified.

 

 

 

And let us finish our tour with tastes coming from the TRADITION OF OTHER ITALIAN REGIONS.  How can we not mention the Panettone (we are supporters of the original recipe based on raisin and candied fruit!) from Northern Italy and the sweets coming from the South in a triumph of ricotta and citrus flavors.

6) Antico Forno Roscioli - One more historical address which, over the generations, bakes bread, pizza (widely recognized the famous pizza bianca!) and gastronomy products. At Christmas time there is room for some Northern recipes and you can find an amazing panettone with raisin. For the few who would not know, we point out their delicatessen shop and restaurant close by in via dei Giubbonari.
Address: via dei chiavari 34 (Campo de' Fiori), tel.06 6864045, closed on Sunday.

7) Pasticceria Perle - A brand new address in the suburbs of Rome (Capannelle area). A shop in Rome, after the original one in Velletri, for Fabrizio Donatone and his creations (widely recognized  are his pan brioche but also cakes, profiteroles, and mignon - little desserts). For Christmas you can find a panettone prepared with high quality ingredients and yeast. Available in the traditional recipe as well as in chocolate and orange. Our special thanks to Lorenzo “Linguini” who let us discover this shop.      Address: via Appia Nuova 1220/b (Capannelle), tel. 06 45421748

 8) Forno Farinando - One more Bakery – in the heart of Testaccio – which bakes yeast breads following natural procedures. For Christmas you can find a tasty panettone filled with lots of bitter chocolate chips. Maybe it is not top notch quality but still we feel they well deserve to be mentioned as a reference in this list!
Address: via Luca Della Robbia 30 (Testaccio), tel. 06 5750674, closed on Sunday.

 

9) Pasticceria Sal de Riso - Slowly slowly we go down south in Italy and our thoughts arrive in Campania! The sweets of Sal de Riso have been, over the years, a seductive synthesis of taste and flavor of the Amalfi Coast, high quality mastery and ingredients! For Christmas panettone baked according to the Milanese classical recipe, but he also adds a number of “deviations” (such as almond coated with candied orange, sultanas and diamond citrus coated in almond glacè, orange flavored cremderì with nut cream in extra virgin DOP olive oil, limoncello in limoncello cream and IGP Amalfi’s lemon peels,...).
Address: via Gallia 12, (San Giovanni), tel. 06 68135738, closed on Sunday.

10) Pasticceria Siciliana Svizzera - And here we come to the southern top! As the name suggests, this place is all-for-Sicily and its products, based on ricotta and candied fruit. So, for Christmas you can find “cassatine” (Sponge Cake covered in royal dough and sugar glaze and filled with sweetened sheep ricotta and candied fruit) and “Buccellati” (a donut filled cookie with dried figs, almond, raisins, lemon peels).
 Address: piazza Pio XI 10 (Aurelio-Gregorio VII), tel. 06 6374974, closed on Monday.

We can’t help but close this post with our “Sweet” wishes for the upcoming holidays to our fellow Roman citizens and to all of you who will happen to be in the “Capitale” over these magic days!

 

*Photos in this post, unless otherwise noted, are by Tavole Romane.

 

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Da Danilo - Delicious Dining in Rome

 

Cucina Romana is one of my favorite regional cuisines of Italy.  When I'm in Rome, I look for no other type of food, well it and pizza al taglio.  I do love the cuisine, some of those rough Romans can make it difficult for the straniera (foreigner).  I'm certainly not the only one to say that Rome isn't always the friendliest to its visitors, especially when it comes to dining.  Although I do speak Italian, albeit with an obvious foreign accent, and follow Italy's stringent dining & food rules, I have had my share of dining issues in Rome.  My reservations have been "lost;" I've had double billings & other "errors" on my bill. One restaurant (Felice a Testaccio) wouldn't give me a reservation after several attempts that spanned weeks. I finally asked an Italian friend to make the reservations for me, and eccolo, a table was miraculously available.

Even though Trattoria Da Danilo came highly recommended by Katie Parla, (as in if you only had 4 meals to eat in Rome, eat there) it was still with much anxiety that I left a reservation request via voicemail.  My fears of lost reservations and "not-so-special" service to foreigners disappeared as soon as we walked into the door.  Two welcoming waiters with smiling faces led us to our table.  Their kind and attentive service continued throughout our meal.  Even with a full dining room, it seemed as if one, and sometimes both, of them was by our table waiting to answer a question, help with a wine suggestion, and even call a taxi for us at the end of the meal.  Three fellow food lovers (Frank, Jessica & Larry) whom I had met earlier in the day on the Testaccio food walk joined me for one of most delicious and delightful dining experiences I've had in Rome.

A family-run trattoria outside of Rome's center.  Danilo runs the front of the house, with his wife and two waiters, while his mother runs the kitchen.  There are two dining areas, one on the main floor and one above.  We ate on the main floor. The small rectangular dining room has a cozy feel, with red & white plaid tablecloths, wooden chairs, and photos, wine bottles and other knicknacks filling most of the wall space. 

For me, the Spaghetti alla Carbonara was the star of our classic Roman meal, one that included other traditional dishes and house specialties.

 

Strozzapreti al Lardo di Colonata e Pecorino di Fossa

Tortellini in a Mushroom Sauce (photo courtesy Jessica & Larry)

 

Spaghetti alla Carbonara (photo courtesy Jessica & Larry)

 

For the first course, we shared three plates of pasta, two house specialties and one seasonal dish.  The carbonara was divine, with guanciale (cured pork jowl) cubes, crisp outside and chewy inside, poking out of a mound of twirled spaghetti. The rendered guanciale fat gave the spaghetti a silky coating to hold onto the creamy and yolky sauce.  The perfectly crisped slice of pancetta on top only heightened the dish's divine status. 

The other two dishes were both good, but not standouts like the carbonara.  The strozzapreti (priest stranglers) was toothsome in a tasty tomato sauce cooked with lard from Colonata and topped with pecorino di Fossa (a crumbly sharp goat cheese from Fossa).  Being mushroom season, the tortellini with thinly sliced porcini and a brothy and earthy sauce nicely complimented the heavier pasta dishes. Their cacio e pepe is also a specialty.  While we didn't order it, we saw the waiters serve it tableside, mixing the cheese with the pasta in a huge hollowed out round of pecorino. I made a note to self to order it on the next visit.

 

Coda alla Vaccinara

Trippa alla Romana

Puntarelle (photo courtesy Jessica & Larry)

 

As we had just spent the afternoon in Testaccio, home to Rome's offal treats, it felt only right to order a few offal classics - Coda alla Vaccinara (Oxtail stew) and Trippa alla Romana (Tripe stewed in tomato sauce with mint).  The coda was rich and tender.  I loved the big saucepot they served it in and the soupy sauce.  The tripe was tender and took on the flavor of the tomato sauce well.   Julienned puntarelle (long cylindrical chicory) and anchovies were coated in a tangy dressing and livened up the hearty protein dishes.

The entire dining experience was a treat, both the meal and the staff, and I'm still dreaming of the carbonara.

 

Da Danilo
Via Petrarca 13
00185 Roma
Phone: +39 06 77 200 111

 

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Taste of Testaccio - Food Tour with Eating Italy in Rome

 

 

During my recent trip to Rome, Kenny from Eating Italy Food Tours in Rome invited me to join him on his food tour of the Testaccio neighborhood.  Testaccio, the working-class, residential neighborhood south of Trastevere, was once home to the Roman slaughterhouses and is still the culinary heart of Rome's offal cuisine. There's more to Testaccio than offal, and many eateries serve up classic Roman dishes and delicacies, and traditional Italian ones. 

On our walk, which included frequent stops at both culinary and historical landmarks in the area, Kenny filled our bellies with a variety of delicious tastings, guiding us through the details of each.  Like a leisurely Italian lunch, he perfectly paced his servings of information, slowly dishing out anecdotes about the neighborhood, Roman cuisine, and Testaccio's culinary history.  He also gave glimpses into the life and personalities of the people who run the eateries we visited.

 

Kenny, our tour guide

 

 

The Testaccio Market

 

Cesare the butcher chopping oxtail   ~   Tomatoes from the Tomato Poet Carmello

 

 

Kenny, has been in Rome for 4 years and living in Testaccio for over a year.  It's obvious that he's cracked the hard shell and found a soft center in many of the rough Roman vendors at the market.  We were welcomed with smiles, ciao Kennys, and two tastings. 

A tennis ball-sized round of soft & creamy mozzarella di bufala awaited each of us from the salami & cheese stand of Enzo & Lina, a couple married for over 40 years. Even more amazing, they've been working side-by-side at the market for 25 years.  We also enjoyed a sampling of tomatoes from Carmelo, known as the tomato poet of the market.  He knows all of his tomatoes inside and out and which is best for every kind of dish.  He's also been known to give recipes for many, if not all, of his 45 different types of tomatoes. 

 

Volpetti 

 

The high-end gourmet shop is "ottimo," both is quality and price.  The Volpetti family knows this, too.  After sampling some of their salumi, prosciutto, cheese, pizza and oils, it's virtually impossible not to buy all of it.  They're generous with the samples, too.  Our formal tasting included percorino cheese with truffles and paper-thin slices of culatello (the much prized cured meat made from the hind of the pig).  And, if someone gazed a little too longingly at anything else in the store, one of the men in white coats were quick to provide a sampling of it.

 

 

Tiramisu in a chocolate cup

For a little bit of sweet in between savory bites, we tasted a mini chocolate cup of tiramisu from the pastry shop that's been on via Marmorata for 50 years. Kenny also gave an impromptu course on ordering coffee in Italy.

 

 

Classic Roman Pasta Dishes at Flavio Velavevodetto

Rigatoni alla Carbonara & all' Amatriciana

Tonarelli Cacio e Pepe

Part of the Amphorae-Made Monte Testaccio from inside Flavio Velavevodetto

 

We tasted three classic Roman pasta dishes at the restaurant that's on every blogger in Rome's list of Top 10.  The restaurant is built into Monte Testaccio, a 35-meter high hill built up by tossed away amphorae from Roman Empire times.  You can see part of the hill and shards of the broken ceramics from the dining room.

 

Our pasta dishes, with wine, were enough to be lunch, so we took a bit of an eating break to visit the old Rome slaughterhouse and  Monte Testaccio (in the first photo collage above). Kenny explained how the name quinto quarto came about and the Vatican's Canonical calendar which determined what foods were eaten when, and to some extent is still in effect today.  Meatless Fridays and gnocchi Thursdays along with other day-of-the week meals were based on this calendar.

 

All that food and there were still two more tastings to go!

Suppli at Pizzeria 00100

Suppli Genovese & the Chalkboard Menu at Pizzeria 00100

 
Trapizzini with Coda alla Vaccinara

 

We stopped at another much-loved by Romans food shrine, Pizzeria 00100.  Our tasting included suppli (fried rice balls) flavored with the Neapolitan Genovese sauce. 

After the tour and since I was already in the area, I went back over to Pizzeria 00100 for one of their famous trapizzini.  It's a blend of pizza and the little tramezzini sandwiches.  They have several saucy filling options or you can order one vuoto (empty).  Mine was filled with coda alla vaccinara (oxtail).  The pizza had a thin crispy outer crust and was light and airy inside.

 

Gelato at Giolitti a Testaccio -

You gotta love a food tour that ends with gelato!

 

Along with the tour and tastings, Kenny provided all guests with a booklet listing his favorite restaurants, and pizza, gelato & food shops throughout Rome.  Another added bonus to the tour was that I met a great bunch of fellow food lovers. A few of us met later that evening for another delicious Roman dining experience.

For Roman food lovers, culinary geeks, and offal afficianados like me, Testaccio is our first stop on any trip to Rome.  For other visitors, who spend the bulk of their research and time on those other trivial aspects of Rome; you know, those things like historical sights, its ruins, churches, or its art, Testaccio and its culinary delights could easily be missed.  With this tour, one doesn't have to miss out nor have to do any research to get a good overview of Testaccio, and visit many of its culinary treasures.  Thanks Kenny for inviting me along!

A big thank you also to new friends, Larry and Jessica, whom I met on Kenny's tour, for allowing me to use their photos.  All the photos from Flavio al Velavevodetto and the one of the suppli are courtesy of Larry and Jessica.

 

Eating Italy Food Tours in Rome

Email: info@eatingitalyfoodtours.com
Phone (from the U.S & Canada): 800-838-3006
Phone (from Europe): 0800-411-8881

 

*This post is part of Wanderfood Wednesdays.  Head on over there to read about food and travel from around the world.

 

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Saturday Scene: Rome at Night

 

Rome, a walking city? Yes, it is usually included in any list of top walking cities around the world. Ok, so you might need to be a little extra careful of cars; meaning you risk life, limb and camera whenever you step foot off a sidewalk.  Rome is also one of the most beautiful cities to walk at night, when the heat of the day has left with the sun and its monuments are alit both from the night lights and the moon. 

One of my favorite travel memories was my trip last summer in Rome.  Every evening while we were there, my friend Daniel (my roommate in Venice) and another friend Marcello roamed Rome after dark, where we made several wine sipping stops along the way in piazze and even under the moonlit shadow of the Colosseum.

For today's Saturday Scene, I have for you Rome at night; monuments and evening scenes from some of my favorite night walks in Rome:

 

From the Capitoline Hill to the Colosseum

 

Michealangelo's Piazza Campidoglio illuminated

 

Monument Vittorio Emanuele

 

Statue of Garibaldi, in front of the Monument Vittorio Emanuele

 

 

Arch of Constantine

 

 

 

Isola Tiberina and Along the Tiber River

This walk is especially fun in the summer as the Tiberina Island and the surrounding area hosts one of the many outdoor summer festivals.  There's dining al fresco along the river, along with cocktail bars, booths with jewelry, clothes and more for sale, and the biggest outdoor movie screen (cinema sotto il cielo) in the city.

 

Isola Tiberina and the Church of San Bartolomeo during summer festivities 

 

Ponte Rotto (the Broken Bridge)

 

Ponte Sisto (Sisto Bridge)

 

Summer eveing festivities along the Tiber River

 

Lounge along the Tiber River

 

 

Castel Sant' Angelo 

Evening views from the top of Castel St. Angelo are some of the most romantic and  picturesque in Rome.  The star-shaped piazza that surrounds the castel, and the area along the Tiber below it, also host another of the city's summer festivals.

 

Castel Sant' Angelo and the Ponte Sant' Angelo (also called the Bridge of Angels)

 

Ponte Vittorio and the Dome of St. Peter's from the Ponte Sant' Angelo

 

From atop Castel Sant' Angelo

 

St. Peter's Basilica from atop the Castel St. Angelo

 

 

Trastevere

Trastevere is one of the livelier neighborhoods at night.  The streets have a Christmas-like glow as many of the trattorie hang strings of lights above the al fresco dining areas.  Street musicians play for a coin or two everywhere you look.

 

Santa Maria in Trastevere - one of the oldest churches in Rome 

 

 

 

 

 

Campo de' Fiori - Piazza Navona - Pantheon - Trevi Fountain

This walk is probably one of the most popular with visitors to Rome.  Starting at the Campo de' Fiori you go north to Piazza Navona.  From there an almost pedestrian-only path leads you to the Pantheon and farther along.  You end at the Trevi Fountain where swarms of people gather to throw in their coins and ensure a return to the eternal city.

 

Campo de' Fiori under the moonlight

 

Fountain of the Four Rivers in Piazza Navona

Bernini's Statue of the Nile River shading his eyes from the Church of St. Agnes in Agony (a work of Bernini's rival Borromini)

 

Neptune's Fountain in Piazza Navona

 

 

The Pantheon

 

Trevi Fountain

 

 

 

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Pizza al Taglio at Pizzarium in Rome

 

 

When I'm in Rome, my pizza of choice is pizza al taglio.  Called pizza by the slice when translated, but that doesn't mean it's a triangular slice cut from the pizza pie.  No, this pizza al taglio is a rectangle, or square, cut from a larger rectangular slab of pizza.  Although its shape is similar to Ligurian focaccia, its texture is different - thinner and with a crisper crust.  It's a staple in the Roman diet.  Pizza bianca, the pizza with only a sprinkling of salt and olive oil, has been my go-to breakfast during various stays in Rome.  This pizza also comes topped with tomato sauce (pizza rossa) and various other vegetables, and cheese.  Rome has its version of the traditional round pizza, with a crust that is thin and crispy, but I prefer Roman pizza al taglio.

Mainly, I've eaten pizza al taglio as a light meal or snack.  During my six-week stay in Rome a while ago, one of my favorite places for pizza al taglio was Il Forno in the Campo de' Fiori.  After getting a slice, usually with eggplant or zucchini, I would sit along the benches at the nearby Palazzo Farnese, eat and people watch in the piazza.

 

 
Palazzo Farnese - my usual spot for snacking on pizza al taglio 

 

 
Piazza Farnese and its Fountain

 

For my recent visit to Rome, I had planned on making a snack of Gabriele Bonci's pizza al taglio at Pizzarium, especially after seeing all the blog posts from his pizza and bread making classes. (All the links to these are on this Italy on a Plate post.)  Because my trip to Rome was a too short two days, I enlisted the help of Roman bloggers and food lovers, Katie Parla, Elizabeth Minchilli, Tavole Romane, and Hande of VinoRoma, to help.  I asked them if they had only four meals to eat in Rome, where would they choose.  Unanimously, every one of them recommended Pizzarium, not for a snack, but for lunch. 

I was convinced.  My first day in Rome, I worked up an appetite by making a beeline from my hotel in Trastevere to Pizzarium, which is located across from the Cipro-Musei Vaticani Metro stop, and near the Vatican Museums. Although the price was at least double what I'm used to paying for pizza al taglio, Chef Bonci didn't disappoint.  The pizza is a little thicker, and the outer crust is extra crunchy. Inside is full of holes of varying sizes, making it softer, airy, and a delicious contrast in texture against the crunchy crust.  And then, there were the toppings - fresh, tasty and abundant.

 

 
 Two Roman delicacies in one - Pizza al taglio and Roman artichokes

 

 
Pizza topped with prosciutto, eggplant and cheese

 

 
Pizza topped with taleggio, zucchini and sesame seeds

 

Chef Bonci is extremely generous with the toppings and the olive oil.  Make sure you have plenty of napkins while eating; otherwise, your chin and hands will have a nice glow from the extra olive oil.  The pizza topped with marinated Roman artichokes was TO DIE FOR. I loved it so much it's on the menu for my world-ending meal.  Also a delicious combination was the salty prosciutto with eggplant and cheese.  For me the taleggio was too strong a flavor, and made the mild flavor of the zuccnini disappear.

 

Just west of the Cipro-Musei Vaticani Metro exit, Pizzarium is a hole in the block of buildings on the small street.  They have a few tables outside and a bar inside for you to stand and eat.  There were at least 15 various toppings in the case when I was there.  You choose what you'd like and the size.  They charge by weight. The six squares for two people, shown above, were 27 euros.  More production was going on in the back, and as new variations came out, they added them to the case.

Pizza al taglio is a treat not to be missed in Rome, and the pizza at Pizzarium is definitely worth a full lunch.  I was so stuffed, I had to alter my lavish dinner plans for the evening.  Plans for my next trip include trying other toppings and taking one of his classes.

 

Pizzarium - via della Meloria, 43 - Rome

For classes:

Tricolore in Rome offers various classes in Italian, including Gabriele Bonci's classes on pizza and bread - Here is the Tricolore Class Schedule

 

 

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Villa d'Este in Photos - A Day Trip from Rome

 

Villa d'Este in Photos - A Day Trip from Rome

Although the eccentricities of the immensely rich completely baffle me most of the time, I have to admit that their crazy creations leave me in awe, as much for the beauty of what they've left behind as for the absurdity of their antics.  This again was the case when I saw Villa d'Este in Tivoli, just outside of Rome.

I hadn't really researched Villa d'Este and wasn't prepared for what I would see.  Roman friends told me to go, "There are fountains and cool breezes."  It's located in Tivoli, a hilltop city, outside of Rome.  I was sold.  A breeze and fresh air in Rome during late July is more impossible to find than sane kings and emperors.

Villa d'Este was developed by Cardinal Ippolito d'Este in 1550, son of the imfamous Lucrezia Borgia. As the story goes,  Cardinal Ippolito became governer of Tipoli after a failed attempt at the papacy.  To boost his wounded pride, he comissioned the Villa d'Este and its gardens. Using the nearby Villa Adriana (Emperor Hadrian's Villa) as inspiration, and designed by the architect Pirro Ligorio, the gardens tell the story of Tivoli and Rome and glorify the family d'Este, Ippolito's powerful family from Ferrara. 

Whatever Ippolito's motives were, one thing is certain this cooky cardinal left us with spectacular lush gardens filled with trees and plants in every shade of greens and yellows.  Even more spectacular are the fountains, many of them bursting high into the air like geysers.  The garden is now a UNESCO World Heritage site and many of the beginning scenes from "Three Coins in a Fountain" are from this garden.

We spent an entire afternoon wandering through the terraced gardens, looking at the story of Tivoli and Rome told through sculpture, greenery and fountains.  We cooled off next to the fountains' spray, and lingered as long as possible in the refreshing grottoes.  Below are photos from our day of wandering the gardens of Villa d'Este.

 

Organ and Neptune Fountains - The Baroque Structure to the back of the terrace is the Organ Fountain.  Created by the Frenchman Claude Venard the organ sounds are determined by the fall of water.  To the front, is Neptune's Fountain.  Around 1930, Attilo Rossi created this fountain by restoring Bernini's waterfall and adding the water jets.

 

 

 

 

 

Avenue of the Hundred Fountains - The 100 fountains is constructed on three levels. On each level runs waters that symbolize one of the rivers of Tivoli. The 100 shapes of lillies, obelisks, eagles and small boats fill the area, all connected to the Este family's coat of arms. The Avenue of the 100 Fountains joins the Oval Fountain to the Rometta Fountain.

 

 

 

 

The Oval Fountain (also the Fountain of Tivoli) - Representing the Tiburtine Mountains and falls, from which come the three rivers of Tivoli - the Aniene, Ercolaneo and Albuneo.

 

 

 

 

The Rometta Fountain - "Little Rome" fountain complex represents the eternal city.  Miniature buildings representing ancient Roman landmarks (some have been demolished) surround the area.  At the center of "little Rome" is the godess of Rome, the she-wolf with Romulus and Remus, and the boat representing the Island Tibertina - the place of the first Roman inhabitants.

 
 

 

 

The Dragon's Fountain - Representing the 11th feat of Hercules, who killed the hundred-heads dragon, the fountain has four winged dragons spitting water into the pool.  A jet of water in the center varies its water expulsion to sometimes sound like a cannon and, other times, like gun fire.

 
 

 

 The Gardens and Fishpond -

 

 

 

 
Fountain of Diana

 

 

 

 

 

Useful Information:

Villa d' Este Website

Getting there by train - Take the train on the Rome-Pescara line and get off at Stazione Tivoli.  From there you can catch a bus to the city center or walk.

Getting there by Metro & Bus - Take Metro Line B (the red line) in the direction of Rebibbia, exit at Ponte Mammolo.  From there catch the Blue Cotral Bus to Tivoli.  To purchase the tickets, go downstairs first, then back up to catch the bus.  The screens will tell you the schedule and which platform to go to to pick up the bus. It's about a 50 minute ride to Tivoli. The bus will stop at the Tivoli's main square, and from there it is a short walk. This is the way we went to Tivoli.

 

 

 

Related Links:

Rome at Night in Photos

Rome with a View - Five Favorite Spots for Photo Ops in Rome

Taste of Testaccio - Food Tour with Eating Italy in Rome

Roman Pasta Dishes and Ten Places to Eat Them in Rome

Food in Rome - Taste of Testaccio is Offal

Best Picnic Spots and Picnic Fare in Rome

Pizza al Taglio at Pizzarium in Rome

Caramel Gelato and Five Favorite Gelaterie in Rome

Cacio e Pepe in a Parmesan Bowl - Inspired by Roma Sparita

Pasta all' Amatriciana - A Roman Treat

Potato Gnocchi for Gnocchi Giovedi

Best Places to Kiss in Italy

Best Places to Kiss in Italy

 

 

As Valentine's Day approaches, my mind is on romance.  I've been working on a romantic Valentine's dinner menu. One where each course includes chocolate.  Try as I might to focus on the menu, even a chocolate menu, my mind keeps wandering to Italy.  I know I'm not the only one that connects romance and Italy, right?  There are, however, particular places in Italy that are more enchanting than others.

Those places are etched in my mind as spots I want to return with that someone special.  Spots that induced "oohs" and caused heavy breathing from long inhales and deep sighs.  So magical, they deserve their own stories that start "Once upon a time" and end "happily ever after;" the place where the prince first kisses the princess.

Is this a cheesy, goofy, girly post? Yes, I guess so! I'm a hopeless romantic. Remember, I'm the one that rejected a gondola ride that included an offer to steer the gondola, to wait and ride with my anima gemella (twin of my soul/soulmate).  Although this post may tilt way on the side of "for the girls" hopefully, my dear male readers,  I haven't lost you.  If you're planning to whisk someone away on a romantic trip to Italy, for Valentine's Day or any other occasion, these little wanderings of mine could certainly be of help.

Here are my picks for ten best places to kiss in Italy.  You'll see a pattern in my choices. For me, water - be it an ocean, lake or river, along with long stretches of beach or promenades, and evening lights qualify as molto romantico.  I know there are far more than ten, but I'm hoping you, my fellow Italophiles and romantics, will help by adding your favorite(s) to the comments:

 

Rome - Castel Sant' Angelo on the Terrace of the Angel 

 
 Rome has many breathtaking hilltop views, but this is my favorite and, for me, the most romantic.  At the top of a castle with the Archangel Michael above, sword in hand, standing guard, your "prince charming" (principe azzurro) beside you, the Eternal City  all aglow below, and the hills of Rome twinkling in the distance.

     

 

Taormina - Piazza IX Aprile

 
View from Piazza IX Aprile in Taormina

 
Piazza IX Aprile in Taormina

Most of Taormina rests on the seaside cliffs of Sicily's eastern coast.  The lower part of the city is home to two beach areas.  Of course it's a city for romance.  The bustling Piazza 9 April is midway along the long, mainly pedestrian street, corso Umberto I.  You can snuggle in a corner along the railing at the rim of the piazza and look onto the eastern coastline of Sicily and the sprawling Ionian Sea.  The clock tower (Torre dell'Orologio) and St. Agostino Church are at the other end of the piazza.  While I was in Taormina, every night I saw countless brides and grooms strolling hand-in-hand out of St. Agostino and the other churches in the city. 

 

 

The Aeolian Islands - A boat ride around Stromboli

 
 

Definitely a spot for romance are all of the Aeolian Islands.  A boat ride around Stromboli at dusk and an evening ride back to Lipari stands out in my mind as the most romantic part of the trip. Stromboli erupted and spewed it flames of lava. (If only I were with my "one true love" instead of being bothered continually by a pesky marinaio.)   The pesky sailor did point out La Stella di Venere ("star" of Venus, actually the planet), which I had never seen before.  On the night ride back to Lipari, you could clearly spot the Big and Little Dippers, called Orsa Maggiore and Minore in Italian. (If the sailor wasn't good for romance at least he was good for learning a few new words in Italian.)

 

 

Vernazza - From Above or Along the Harbor

 
 

I couldn't leave "my happy place" off the list.  At dusk atop the hill overlooking Vernazza, you will certainly be alone.  I would suggest bringing a bottle of wine AND a flashlight.  Winding your way down in the dark, can be a struggle, even without having had any wine.  For those who don't want to climb, the harbor is just as romantic. 

 

 

Anywhere in Venice

 
Saint Mark's Square - Venice

 

I believe the water and the reflections of the city - its lights, its buidings, its glass - flickering above the water's surface does something to your senses. How can you not feel amorous here?  Kiss on bridges, in a quiet calle, along the small canals, on the steps of Santa Maria della Salute, on Giudecca - looking out at the Doge's Palace and the Campanile, in the back seats of an empty vaporetto.  Possibly the best place of all is St. Mark's Square when it's virtually empty, very late at night.   

  

 

 

Florence - Ponte Santa Trinita: Looking onto the Arno and the Ponte Vecchio

  
 

While students, tourists and young lovers pack the Ponte Vecchio, take a stroll along the Santa Trinita bridge for a bit of quiet, and a view of the Ponte Vecchio and the lights along the Arno.

 

 

Camogli - The Beach at Dusk

 
 

Camogli, one of the many picturesque towns in Liguria, has a long stretch of beach.  After the daytime crowds depart, this stretch of beach allows you to carve out a private spot for smooching and watching the sun set on the Ligurian Sea.  To top it off, Camogli celebrates lovers during St. Valentine's Day and the week preceding it.  The festival is called "Innamorati a Camogli."  Hotels have special deals for couples, there are art and poetry competitions dedicated to love, and hearts are strung everywhere in the city.  You can add your heart to the fishing nets along the harbor. 

  

Sorrento - Belvedere di Sorrento

 
View from Belvedere di Sorrento

 
Naples and the Gulf of Naples from Sorrento 

Behind the Convent and Cloister of San Franceso is the terrace called Belvedere di Sorrento.  You have sweeping views of the coastline, a look down the cliffs onto the Marinas Grande and Piccolo of Sorrento, and out onto the Bay of Naples.  Many couples end their walks through Sorrento here, cuddled together against the terrace railing or along the park benches.

 

 

Lago Maggiore - The Terraced Gardens on Isola Bella

The island on Lake Maggiore houses Palazzo Borromeo and one of the most spectacular gardens in all of Italy.  The terraced gardens lush with greenery, flowers and statues are a sight all by themselves.  Adding to the beauty are the white peacocks that roam the gardens, the views of Lake Maggiore and of the mountains, snow-capped in Winter and Spring.  The variety of plants in the garden provide color from March to October.  The beauty of both the gardens and the surrounding views make it a perfect place for a prince and his princess.  Actually, legend has it that the ladies of Count Borromeo's household asked him to build the palace on the island because they didn't want to hear the prisoners' cries from the dungeons in the mainland's castle.

 

Napoli - Via Partenope

  

Via Partenope is part of a long stretch of road that edges along the sea, the lungomare, in Naples.  It runs from the neighborhoods of Santa Lucia to Mergellina.  Along the Via Partenope stretch is a long promenade with views of Castel d'Ovo and Mt. Vesuvius in the background.  Other lovers have left their mark along this classic lovers' stroll.  Along the promendade, look out for padlocks, painted with couples' names and locked around poles.

  

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Where are your picks for most romantic spots and the best places to kiss in Italy?

***************

 

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Fettuccine with Mushrooms - Fettuccine ai Funghi

Walking past the mushroom aisle the other day, I was reminded of last Fall in Rome. I actually stopped dead in my tracks. The display had such a variety of mushrooms that I forgot for a moment that it wasn’t Rome. They had Crimini (nothing out of the ordinary here), but also Chanterelles, and those little ones that look like a bunch of nails (called chiodi in Italian but I can’t think of their name in English). And, they even had Porcini mushrooms. Fresh Porcini mushrooms! Then reality hit. The slap to the face telling me I wasn’t in Rome was the price, $39.90 per pound. The clerk who was walking by, saw me shaking my head and laughing, asked if I needed help. I confirmed the price. “Yes, they are $39.90 a pound.” He said, with a smile. “Well, they don’t call this Whole Paycheck for nothing.” Oops, I did say that out loud. He seemed to be only a little offended, just that required of an employee. Then he laughed with me, and walked away. I did the same.

For the rest of the day, those mushrooms had me dreaming of Rome in Autumn. Last year, I spent August in Rome, then returned again in late September. I remember how different Rome was. In only 30 days, the new season had quickly swept out the oppressive heat, changed the color of the trees along the Tiber to light greens and yellows, and refreshed the entire city. The attitudes of the Romani were even more jovial (I’m sure an August of vacation at the beach didn’t hurt either). Fall quickly changed the landscape of the street markets, too. Pumpkins, chestnuts, and mushrooms dominated the vegetable stands. Fettuccine ai Funghi Porcini was written on chalkboards in almost all the trattorie, announcing it as the plate of the day.

 

The Church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin in Rome

Now back at home, I was determined to transport myself, once again through food, to Rome and had to make my own fettuccine ai funghi. I went back to the store. Instead of buying a pound, I found one smallish Porcini mushroom, a little under ¼ pound in weight. I also bought Chanterelles and Crimini mushrooms to make up the total amount I would need. When leaving the store, I had another Roman experience. Being the weekend before Thanksgiving in the U.S., I risked life, limb, and mushrooms to avoid harried and impatient drivers racing through the parking lot, not wanting to be delayed by anything, especially pedestrians.

In Rome, the dish is usually served with a fresh egg fettuccine . I used dried fettuccine instead, and everything turned out deliciously. It takes more time to shop for the ingredients than to make the dish. In the time it takes to make the pasta, the “sauce” will be ready.

 

 

Fettuccine with Mushrooms - Fettuccine ai Funghi
(Serves 4)

1 pound (450 grams) fettuccine

About 3 tablespoons olive oil
4 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)
About 1 pound your favorite mushrooms (porcini, chanterelle, crimini, etc.) **
About ½ teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
1 cup white wine (may also use Marsala or Madeira wine for a little added flavor)
2 tablespoons butter
Freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley


**NOTE: You can substitute dried porcini mushrooms (because fresh is hard to find and expensive in the U.S.) Soak them in warm water, and then drain them before adding to the saute pan.

 

In a saucepot, bring about 8 cups of well-salted water to a rolling boil.

While the water is heating, clean the mushrooms with a dampened paper towel, then slice them to 1/4-inch thickness. In a sauté pan, heat the oil, garlic cloves and the pepper flakes (if using them). Once the oil is translucent, add the mushrooms. Salt the mushrooms to bring out their moisture and sauté for about five minutes on medium-high heat. (In the five minutes, the mushrooms will first absorb all the oil, then release their moisture, and then caramelize.)

While the mushrooms are cooking, drop the fettuccine into the boiling water and cook according to instructions.

Once the mushrooms have caramelized, deglaze them with the wine, initially over high heat, scraping any bits from the bottom of the pan. Turn the heat to low and cook for 5 minutes. When the fettuccine is about 2 minutes from being done, add a ladle (about 1/2 cup) of the pasta water to the mushrooms. Drain the pasta and add it to the mushrooms. Add the butter and toss until everything is combined and the butter has melted. Remove the garlic cloves. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and freshly ground black pepper if needed (if you used the red pepper flakes, you may not need the black pepper). Garnish with chopped parsley and serve. Buon Appetito!

This post is part of WanderFood Wednesdays, travelers that love to eat.

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Potato Gnocchi for Gnocchi Giovedi

When I see gnocchi fatta in casa (home made) on a menu in Italy, it’s almost certain that I’m going to order it. Although they do freeze well, I think potato gnocchi taste best the day they are made. At many of the trattorie around Rome, Thursday’s are the day for potato gnocchi made in house , also known as Gnocchi Giovedi (Thursday). For gnocchi lovers in Rome this can be a weekly festa.

Today, being Thursday, I’m throwing my own little Gnocchi Giovedi party and have made a batch of gnocchi. These doll-sized fists or “knuckles” can be tricky to make and can easily become heavy, tough, or mushy. Too much water left in the potato, too much flour in the dough, a tough dough from overworking it, or mushy gnocchi from overcooking them are main causes of bad gnocchi. If made well, though, they are petite potato pillows that hug, in between each ridge, a little bit of sauce.

Gnocchi go well with many other sauces. In Rome, you’ll usually find them in a simple tomato sauce or a ragu. In Liguria gnocchi al pesto is most popular. In the Campania area around Sorrento, they’re served alla Sorrentina. In Italian coastal towns, I’ve seen them served with clams in a light sauce from the clam juice. They also go well with a simple brown butter and sage sauce or a heavier creamy cheese sauce.

Although any day can be a gnocchi day, I’m celebrating Gnocchi Giovedi today with a plate of gnocchi and my mom’s meat ragu.

Potato Gnocchi

(Makes about 2 pounds of gnocchi)

28 ounces (3-4) russet potatoes

About 1 1/3 cups flour, plus more for rolling out the gnocchi

1 Tablespoon kosher salt

1 egg

Heat the oven to 350°F

Bake the potatoes, whole and in their skin, for 60-70 minutes, until fork tender. As soon as the potatoes come out of the oven, halve them, scoop out the center, and put through a food ricer. Spread the riced potatoes in a single layer onto a working surface and let cool completely, about 25 minutes. Once the potatoes have cooled, sprinkle 1 cup of the flour and the salt over the potatoes. Gather the mixture together to form a well. Add the egg into the middle of the well, and lightly knead the mixture together just until all ingredients are combined and it forms a ball. If the gnocchi are too wet, add the rest of the flour a tablespoon at a time only until the dough comes together and doesn’t stick to your fingers easily. (This should take no more than 2-3 minutes.) It’s important not to overwork the dough, as this will make the gnocchi heavy and tough.

Divide the dough into six pieces. Roll each piece out into a rope about 1/2-inch in diameter. Cut into 1/2-inch pieces. Give each piece a quick roll into a ball. Create ridges in the gnocchi by rolling them onto a fork (If you have a wooden “gnocchi board,” use this instead.) Cook them right away or freeze them. (If you’re freezing them, place them in a single layer on a baking sheet and place into the freezer. Once they are individually frozen, you can place them together or on top of each other in a bag or container.)

When you’re ready to cook them, bring about 8 cups of well-salted water to a boil. Gently place the gnocchi, only a few at a time, into the boiling water. It’s important to keep the water at a boiling temperature; otherwise, the gnocchi will sink to the bottom of the pan and stay there too long, absorbing too much water. As soon as the gnocchi float to the surface remove them from the pot and drain off the water. Serve with your preferred sauce. Buon Appetito!

NOTE: Traditionally the potatoes for gnocchi are boiled in water, some leave the skin on (to prevent water from getting inside), some don’t. I’ve made them all three ways and have found that their texture is the lightest when the potatoes are roasted.

Mamma’s Meat Ragu

(makes about 1 quart)

1 1/2 pounds ground beef

About 1/4 cup olive oil

1 onion, diced

1/2 carrot, finely diced

7 cloves of garlic, finely diced

1 can (15 oz/170 g) diced tomatoes

1 small can (6 oz/415 g) tomato paste

2 tablespoons dried Italian seasoning (oregano, parsley, basil)

1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)

1/2 cup (105 ml) red wine

1 large can (28oz/794g) crushed tomatoes

About 3 cups (625 ml) chicken stock

1 tablespoon salt, plus more to taste

Freshly ground pepper, to taste

 

Brown the ground beef in a heavy-bottom saucepot. Remove and drain off any excess water; set aside. Heat the olive oil and add the onions. Sweat the onions until they are translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the carrot and cook another 2-3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook about 1 minute. Add the tomato paste, Italian seasoning, and red pepper flakes (if you want a little spice to the sauce). Cook about 1 minute to toast. Turn the heat to high and add the red wine to deglaze, scraping any bits from the bottom. Add the crushed tomatoes, chicken stock, 1 tablespoon of salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a boil, then lower to just a simmer. Cook uncovered on simmer for 3-4 hours, stirring about every 30 minutes. (The heat should be set at a simmer so that the sauce bubbles only every few seconds.) Serve with pasta.

 

 

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What sauce do you prefer with your gnocchi? When in Rome, where do you go for Gnocchi Giovedi?

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The Dish from Rome: Braised Oxtail - Coda alla Vaccinara

 

Much of the food of Rome is based on cucina povera.  Offal, the quinto quarto, is a huge part of this cuisine.  The quinto, “fifth” quarter of the animal, includes the "lesser" cuts and the innards.  Rich folks took the premier cuts of meat. The poor, making due with what was left, cooked the hell out of these pieces, establishing the cuisine of Rome, that still thrives today. 

 They caressed the flavors from these tough unwanted pieces into dishes as rich as Rome’s history, with layers of flavors running as deep as the ancient cities lying below Rome.  Coda alla Vaccinara (braised oxtail) is one of these dishes.  The tail is slowly cooked, tenderizing the meat, and releasing flavors from the tailbone that give the dish an intense meatiness.

 

 

One August afternoon, I chatted with the chef at Capo di Ferro in Trastevere about La Coda.  I had their version, served as a rich ragu with rigatoni. I became an instant fan.  Over an after-lunch limoncello, the chef told me how he makes it, emphasizing that a main ingredient is patience. The dish requires four hours to cook and a lot of stirring,” he warned.  Well, Rome wasn’t built in a day, so a truly Roman dish should take some time.

This recipe is adapted from Capo di Ferro’s Rigatoni alla Vaccinara. It's delicious by itself, but also a great ragu for pasta.

 

 

 

Roman-Style Braised Oxtail

(serves 4)

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 pounds oxtail, cut into 2-inch sections

1 tablespoon salt

1 small onion, roughly chopped

1/2 carrot, cubed

2 celery stalks, roughly chopped

4 cloves garlic, peeled and halved

1/2 cup red wine

28 ounces tomatoes, peeled and chopped

About 3 cups beef stock

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

4 cloves

 

In a heavy-bottom saucepot, heat the olive oil.  Season the oxtail pieces with salt, browning each side of the pieces. Remove; set aside.  Add the onions and a pinch of salt to the pan.  Sweat the onions until they are translucent, 5 minutes.  Add the carrots, cooking until tender, about 5 minutes.  Add the celery and garlic. Cook 3 minutes more.  Add the oxtail pieces back to the pot.  Deglaze with the wine over high heat, cooking about 2 minutes.  Add the tomatoes; bring to a boil.  Continue boiling to cook off some of the tomato water. Add the beef stock just to cover the meat, then the pepper and cloves. Bring to a boil.  Once it boils, lower the heat to simmer, cover with a circle of parchment paper, and cook for 4 hours (stirring occasionally).

Once the oxtail is tender, remove the pieces to a serving dish. Cover with aluminum foil; set aside.  Strain the sauce, pressing down on the vegetables to extract all the juices.  Skim all the fat off the top, and pour into a smaller saucepan. Bring to a boil and cook, reducing by 1/4.  Taste for seasoning.  Pour the sauce over the oxtail and serve. Buon Appetito!

 

This post has been entered into the GranTourismo HomeAway Holiday Rentals Travel Blogging Competition.

 

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