A mask finding mission in Venice shouldn't be difficult. It's easier to find a mask shop here than it is to find a pigeon searching for crumbs under your feet. However, a hand-painted mask made from papier-mache (cartapesta) is getting harder to find. Too many vendors are littering the calli and campi with their cheap factory-made plastic masks, also making it hard for the artisans.
Hidden at the back of Campo San Giacomo dell' Orio is the artisan mask shop of Benor Maschere Venezia. After much window shopping, I knew I'd be buying a mask there, but didn't know I'd also be making one myself.
Mario, the mask maker, gave me a hearty, "buon giorno" and welcoming smile as I walked into the shop. He was behind his work table, which was cluttered with paint bottles and brushes and full of masks in different states of preparation. A variety of finished masks hung on the walls, and large used mask molds filled the edges of the shop floor. One mold was even turned upside down and used as a business card holder. After a short conversation, I told him I had always wanted to learn how to make a mask. Without hesitation, he pulled a chair up to the table and went about clearing a space for me.
The process starts with a design which Mario creates and sends to the sculptor to make the mold. When the mold is ready, it's used to create the blue cartapesta (papier-mache) masks. They then place a white stucco coating over the cartapesta. The mask is reading for decorating once the stucco dries. Because I had never painted a mask before, Mario suggested that I first draw my design with a pencil, as beginners do. After the paint and additional forms of decoration dry, Mario seals the mask with a varnish.
He simultaneously finished painting 5 or 6 masks, explained the history of Venetian masks and Carnevale in Venice, and waited on customers hopping from various languages the entire way. Mario has been making masks for more than 20 years, so he thought nothing of the amount of multi-tasking and language hopping he performed while I watched in amazement and took the entire afternoon just to sketch a very basic design.
The next day I came back and took the entire afternoon to paint my one mask. Again he worked on at least 20, putting the finishing crackle (to give the effect that the mask is old and a little "cracked") onto some and starting others that would have music notes and gold detailing. The gold detailing is done with what is basically a glue gun, then later painted. Of course, he made the process look easy, which it definitely isn't, especially for an amateur.
Two afternoons later, and I had my own personally-made mask. As you can see, I have a long way to go before I'm anywhere near professional mask-making status, but it's a beautiful memento of Mario and the two afternoons I spent with him at his mascheria. I also bought one that he made to add to my collection. It's a character from the Italian Commedia dell' Arte, il capitano.
Mario gives mask-making classes that last 3 hours. The cost per person is 25 euros, which includes a mask, paint, and also a brief history and explanation of the mask-making process. As I did, you get to take the mask home with you after your lesson. It needs to dry completely before you can add the varnish, so mine isn't varnished yet. You can contact Benor Maschere to set up a mask-making lesson at www.benor-masks.com.
Update: I've heard from readers that some have had a hard time scheduling classes, which is understandable as it is a small shop. Below are other shops that hold more formal classes. Carnevale time is the busiest season for maskmakers in Venice. Classes during Carnevale might be harder, and even impossible to book. If booking during this time, I would advise to book well in advance. Thanks to Monica Cesarato of Venice for providing the information.
Related Links:
Italian Hot Chocolate and Carnevale in Venice
Chiacchiere - Fried Sweets for Carnevale in Venice
Cichetti and Ombra - Little Tastes of Venice
A Morning at the Rialto Market
Sfogi in Saor - Venetian Style Sole in Agrodolce
The Italian Teacher, The Friend and a Magical Chocolate Budino
Lo Spritz and Happy Hour in Venice
La Bottega ai Promessi ai Sposi
Italy in Books Review - The Glassblower of Murano
A Twist on a Venetian Spritz and Embracing Italian Culture
Nice experience you had with mask making. It must have been fun to learn. I imagine it might have been difficult for you to choose which mask to buy from Mario's shop. There were so many nice ones.
Posted by: Jozee Pizzurro | August 04, 2009 at 01:40 PM
Beautiful. You must be pretty proud of your accomplishment. You did a great job.
Posted by: Rozee | August 06, 2009 at 07:39 AM
Cool. Rich and I did a lot of research (Rich even made a mask) on this about 15 years ago when our Italian-American Bar Assn. sponsored a big-deal Carnevale in SF, complete with costumes, etc. As a lead-up to the event, we had speakers come to our meetings, including a fellow who makes LEATHER carnevale masks.
Which one did you BUY? I LOVE the music one; I may try to copy it ... (shhh)
Posted by: Paula Aiello | August 09, 2009 at 10:27 PM
Paula---I bought the last one pictured---Il Capitano. I try to buy a style of mask that I don't already have. Yes, I could have written 5 pages worth of information on the masks. Instead I added a few links for those who have a further interest in the history and types of Venetian masks out there (they're highlighted and underlined in the text). I'm also hoping to go back to Venice for the 10 days of festivities next year, with full sets of costumes, etc.
Posted by: Food Lover Kathy | August 10, 2009 at 05:36 AM
When is carnevale? Probably sometime in March? Wonder if I could save some money .... hmmmmm?
Posted by: Paula Aiello | August 17, 2009 at 04:58 PM
Paula--The festivities last the 10 days prior to Ash Wednesday, and end on "Martedi Grasso" (Fat Tuesday). Each year those dates are different. In 2010, Carnevale in Venice will begin on Saturday, February 6 and end Tuesday, February 16.
Posted by: Food Lover Kathy | August 18, 2009 at 01:34 PM