Welcome to this week's Italy on a Plate. Just in time for lemon season, this week's recipe roundup includes one for limoncello. Along with the savory dishes, there's a chocoholic's dream roulade and several crostata recipes from the month's Daring Bakers' Challenge. Eating Italy has restaurant information for Rome, a peek into the making of focaccia col formaggio in Recco, Piedmont wine and information on an artistic winemaker, and more tasty treats throughout Italy. I've added a few new festivals, including a chocolate one in Naples and a dessert sagra in Sicily. Hope you enjoy it all and Buon Appetito!
My Choice for the week's top 10 recipes from around the web:
Lemon season is almost upon us, meaning it's Limoncello time! Limoncello - Campania's Lemon Liqueur - There's a recipe, information about the limoncello tradition, and beautiful pictures of the Amalfi Coast - Charming Italy
A perfect cold-weather appetizer, Fagottini Salati (Savory little pies) - Frutto della Passione
Ligurian Savory Pie - Torta di Riso (Rice Tart) - Beautiful Liguria
Risotto Bietole e Peperoncino (Swiss Chard and Chili Pepper Risotto) - Volevo Fare Lo Chef (click on "English Version" for English)
Frank serves up his rib-sticking Ribollita - Memorie di Angelina
Fern gives us an insider's view into the oldest restaurant in Recco and the making of the Ligurian and restaurant's specialty, Focaccia col Formaggio - An Expatriate in Rapallo
Information and photos of the Sicilian pastry Teste di Turco (Turkish Heads) from the famous Modica pastry shop, Antica Dolceria Bonajuto - Love Sicily
In The Art Wines of Cascina Carpini, Joel shares information on the winemaker and his wines from Piedmont, along with tasting notes and food pairings - Vintrospective
Tuula's been killing me with her posts from Rome lately, but this one of Tiramisu Dreams at Pompi in Rome has me wishing someone could beam me over there just to taste the Tiramisu in that photo! - Le Petit France Blog
Upcoming Food and Wine Festivals:
Suvereto Festival - November 28 to December 12 - In the medieval town of Suvereto, near Livorno, there is a two-week food and historic festival of local delicacies including wild boar, wine, olive oil, honey and more
Barga Chocolate Festival - December 4 and 5 - Barga - Lucca - Chocolate tastings and demonstrations begin at 10 am on December 4th
ChocoBarocco in Modica - December 3 to 8 - The Sicilian town famous for its chocolate is throwing a chocolate festival - and you can take a chocolate tour on a Vespa (Some information in English on Sicily Guide)
Pig and Wild Boar Festival (Sagre del Maiale e Chingale) - December 4 and 5 in Antillo, a city near Taormina in Sicily
Sagra della Testa di Turco - December 8 - In Castelbuono, outside of Cefalu in Sicily, the town celebrates the Turban-resembling Sicilian pastry filled with ricotta cream
Eurochocolate Ski - December 16 to 19 - In the Alpine town of Cortina d'Ampezzo you can eat chocolate and ski - Information in English at Italy Magazine
Sagra della Sfincia - January 6, 2011 - A town outside of Palermo, Montelepre (the town of my grandparents) celebrates the town's sweet fried dough
Cioccolosita (Chocolate Festival in Tuscany) - February 4 to 6, 2011 - The town of Monsummano Terme, near Pistoia, hosts a chocolate festival and brings chocolatiers from all over Italy with samples!
Carnevale di Venezia - February 26 to March 8, 2011 - A magical event that I would recommend attending at least once in your life, the entire city of Venice becomes a stage
“I’m in Paris. Anyone here? New Year’s Eve plans?” My desperate text message went out to everyone I knew who might be in Paris. I arrived early for a January class in order to settle into my apartment. It also meant the possibility of New Year’s Eve alone.
My friend Sean called. He and Richard were having a traditional French New Year’s dinner party. “We would love to have you. Oh, could you come tomorrow and help cook?” Two things that are indispensable when traveling solo: a local cell phone and the ability to cook.
The next day we prepared the eight-course dinner and filled the apartment with savory scents. We prepped salad, made velouté, slathered herbed butter over snail shells, boiled langoustines, marinated pork, simmered sauce, and assembled a colossal cheese plate. The evening ended with us waiting in line at Pierre Herme to buy dessert.
On New Year’s Eve, eight of us gathered together in Richard’s 18th arrondissement apartment. Over the four-hour dinner, I chatted with the other guests, forming friendships that would continue long after the party. Midnight came while we feasted on the domed chocolate dessert. We raced outside onto Richard’s terrace, and popped open champagne. We clinked glasses, gave each other traditional two-cheek kisses, and cooed over fireworks lighting the Parisian sky. Shouts of “Bonne Annee” went out and came back from neighbors and those in the streets below. Snuggling together on the chilly terrace, we sipped champagne and welcomed the New Year in Paris.
Walking past the mushroom aisle the other day, I was reminded of last Fall in Rome. I actually stopped dead in my tracks. The display had such a variety of mushrooms that I forgot for a moment that it wasn’t Rome. They had Crimini (nothing out of the ordinary here), but also Chanterelles, and those little ones that look like a bunch of nails (called chiodi in Italian but I can’t think of their name in English). And, they even had Porcini mushrooms. Fresh Porcini mushrooms! Then reality hit. The slap to the face telling me I wasn’t in Rome was the price, $39.90 per pound. The clerk who was walking by, saw me shaking my head and laughing, asked if I needed help. I confirmed the price. “Yes, they are $39.90 a pound.” He said, with a smile. “Well, they don’t call this Whole Paycheck for nothing.” Oops, I did say that out loud. He seemed to be only a little offended, just that required of an employee. Then he laughed with me, and walked away. I did the same.
For the rest of the day, those mushrooms had me dreaming of Rome in Autumn. Last year, I spent August in Rome, then returned again in late September. I remember how different Rome was. In only 30 days, the new season had quickly swept out the oppressive heat, changed the color of the trees along the Tiber to light greens and yellows, and refreshed the entire city. The attitudes of the Romani were even more jovial (I’m sure an August of vacation at the beach didn’t hurt either). Fall quickly changed the landscape of the street markets, too. Pumpkins, chestnuts, and mushrooms dominated the vegetable stands. Fettuccine ai Funghi Porcini was written on chalkboards in almost all the trattorie, announcing it as the plate of the day.
The Church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin in Rome
Now back at home, I was determined to transport myself, once again through food, to Rome and had to make my own fettuccine ai funghi. I went back to the store. Instead of buying a pound, I found one smallish Porcini mushroom, a little under ¼ pound in weight. I also bought Chanterelles and Crimini mushrooms to make up the total amount I would need. When leaving the store, I had another Roman experience. Being the weekend before Thanksgiving in the U.S., I risked life, limb, and mushrooms to avoid harried and impatient drivers racing through the parking lot, not wanting to be delayed by anything, especially pedestrians.
In Rome, the dish is usually served with a fresh egg fettuccine. I used dried fettuccine instead, and everything turned out deliciously. It takes more time to shop for the ingredients than to make the dish. In the time it takes to make the pasta, the “sauce” will be ready.
Fettuccine with Mushrooms - Fettuccine ai Funghi (Serves 4)
1 pound (450 grams) fettuccine
About 3 tablespoons olive oil 4 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional) About 1 pound your favorite mushrooms (porcini, chanterelle, crimini, etc.) ** About ½ teaspoon salt, plus more to taste 1 cup white wine (may also use Marsala or Madeira wine for a little added flavor) 2 tablespoons butter Freshly ground black pepper 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
**NOTE: You can substitute dried porcini mushrooms (because fresh is hard to find and expensive in the U.S.) Soak them in warm water, and then drain them before adding to the saute pan.
In a saucepot, bring about 8 cups of well-salted water to a rolling boil.
While the water is heating, clean the mushrooms with a dampened paper towel, then slice them to 1/4-inch thickness.In a sauté pan, heat the oil, garlic cloves and the pepper flakes (if using them).Once the oil is translucent, add the mushrooms.Salt the mushrooms to bring out their moisture and sauté for about five minutes on medium-high heat.(In the five minutes, the mushrooms will first absorb all the oil, then release their moisture, and then caramelize.)
While the mushrooms are cooking, drop the fettuccine into the boiling water and cook according to instructions.
Once the mushrooms have caramelized, deglaze them with the wine, initially over high heat, scraping any bits from the bottom of the pan.Turn the heat to low and cook for 5 minutes.When the fettuccine is about 2 minutes from being done, add a ladle (about 1/2 cup) of the pasta water to the mushrooms.Drain the pasta and add it to the mushrooms.Add the butter and toss until everything is combined and the butter has melted.Remove the garlic cloves. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and freshly ground black pepper if needed (if you used the red pepper flakes, you may not need the black pepper). Garnish with chopped parsley and serve.Buon Appetito!
A very exciting week in Italian food. My choices for the 10 best recipes this week include many from Sicily. These Sicilian dishes are not as well known but very delicious. (In case you didn't already know, Sicily is very close to my heart as my grandparents were from there.) Cookies or biscotti are starting to pop up as we get ready for Christmas. Speaking of cookies, look for a week of Italian cookies here on Food Lover's Odyssey in December. Eating in Italy has information on foods in Tuscany and where you can find bacon and eggs along with Roman fare for Brunch in Rome. I've added more festivals to the Upcoming Festivals section. Besides four upcoming CHOCOLATE festivals in the next few months, olive oil, wild boar and truffle festivals are also happening. Last week I posted a list of more than 30 Christmas Markets and Events in Italy, so you can find all the information on Christmas events in Italy there. If you're traveling to Italy in Christmas, you should check out one of the markets or events; they look magical. Enjoy this week's round up of Italian food!
My Choices for this week's 10 Best Italian Recipes from Around the Web:
La Divina Cucina, Judy, makes Panelle, the street food from Palermo and gives information about her recent trip to Sicily - Over the Tuscan Stove
Zucca Agrodolce alla Siciliana (Butternut Squash in Sweet and Sour Sauce) - I was so excited to see this as I love agrodolce (the sweet and sour sauce most famously known for being in the Sicilian Caponata). Sicilians actually use this sauce to dress many dishes. - Volevo Fare Lo Chef (there is an English version of the recipe)
King Truffle Festival - November 28 - Vaiano - Prato celebrates the truffle with dog-hunting demonstrations, food stalls, newly pressed olive oil tastings and dinner with truffle dishes
Suvereto Festival - November 28 - December 12 - In the medieval town of Suvereto, near Livorno, there is a two-week food and historic festival of local delicacies including wild boar, wine, olive oil, honey and more
Barga Chocolate Festival - December 4 and 5 - Barga - Lucca - Chocolate tastings and demonstrations begin at 10 am on December 4th
ChocoBarocco in Modica - December 3 - 8 - The Sicilian town famous for its chocolate is throwing a chocolate festival - and you can take a chocolate tour on a Vespa (Some information in English on Sicily Guide)
Pig and Wild Boar Festival (Sagre del Maiale e Chingale) - Deceber 4 and 5 in Antillo, a city near Taormina in Sicily
Eurochocolate Ski - December 16 to 19 - In the Alpine town of Cortina d'Ampezzo you can eat chocolate and ski - Information in English at Italy Magazine
Sagra della Sfincia - January 6, 2011 - A town outside of Palermo, Montelepre (the town of my grandparents) celebrates the town's sweet fried dough
Cioccolosita (Chocolate Festival in Tuscany) - February 4 - 6, 2011 - The town of Monsummano Terme, near Pistoia, hosts a chocolate festival and brings chocolatiers from all over Italy with samples!
Carnevale di Venezia - February 26 - March 8, 2011 - A magical event that I would recommend attending at least once in your life, the entire city of Venice becomes a stage
A ritual I repeat with each visit to Paris is an afternoon visit to LaDuree's tea salon. I don't mean walking up to the take-away counter and ordering a box of macarons and a few pastries to carry out and eat in a nearby park. Although, I do that, too. No, a trip to Paris isn't complete without an afternoon in one of LaDuree's salons de thé. I must nestle myself behind one of the petite tables, with my legs tightly tucked underneath, and have dessert.
There are many joys to visiting LaDuree that begin before you even enter the salon. The windows, with their pastel-colored decorations and macaron towers, have you anxious for the princess-like treasures inside. The ornately decorated belle epoque salon transports you back to a time where women wore dresses with bustles, hats, gloves and carried parasols. I always feel an awe when inside, immagining what famous person might have sat in the same seat as I am. The atmosphere and the pastries are definitely reasons to dine dessert (I only eat the sweets) inside. They are not the real reason I go. No, the real reason I enter the tea salon is for a specific dessert. It's one you can only get inside, seated at a table.
The dessert is the Minis Macarons Glaces (mini macarons with ice cream). It's not really a beauty, especially compared to the colorful little jewels, those macarons and pastries, that first come to mind when one says LaDuree. No, this dessert is an ugly stepsister to those pretties. What she lacks in looks, she more than makes up for in taste. I'm a sucker for contrasts both in flavor and texture, so I love this dessert. Two delicate, sweet and crispy macarons sandwiched around dense and creamy ice cream, a little symphony of flavors. They also offer sorbets with the macarons. A little different contrast are the sorbets. Here bright, cold, and tangy sorbet is like a jive dance with the macaron cookies.
Now, I have always been able to pick each of the four flavors, and I always make the tragic faux pas of combining ice cream and sorbet. A French person told me once, this is "just not done!" Oh well, that's what I like, and I made my usual request for a scoop of chocolate ice cream, two macarons with ice cream and two with sorbet, lemon and raspberry flavors. The waiter told me I could only choose my scoop of ice cream, and they would choose the four macaron flavors. What?!! They can't change the rules! I was certain my horrible French was causing the confusion and repeated my request three times. Finally, my friend Karina, who's fluent in French, stepped in and asked for me. Yep, they changed the rules, probably to keep goofy Americans like me from commiting the mortal sin of combining sorbets and ice creams. I ordered pistaschio ice cream, and with it, came chocolate, vanilla, cafe and pistachio macarons filled with the same flavors of ice cream. It was creamy and sweet, dense and light, the contrasts of flavors and tastes I love presented in a silver cup. I did think about ordering another cup with only sorbets but decided to do that next time. Instead, I purchased a few macarons and other pastries from the take-away counter for later. My trip to Paris was complete.
Individual Saint Honore pastry from LaDuree
Harmonie Pastry from LaDuree
Note: Photos inside LaDuree are not allowed, but I snuck a quick photo of the macarons and ice cream dish solely to share it with you. The rest of the photos were taken outside.
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Is there a thing you must do or eat when visiting one of your favorite cities?
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Join
me in Provence in 2013 for a French Pastry Culinary Vacation and learn how to
create these and other classic French pastries! Details here: Pastry-Making Vacation in Provence
Christmas in Italy. The markets, regional seasonal delicacies, and participating in Italian Christmas festivities. This dream vacation is on my "bucket list," so I've been jotting down notes and websites pertaining to Christmas in Italy for a while. Last week, I said to myself, "I'll share this information with you, here. Easy." Well, if I had the notes in one, and not 4 different, notebooks it would have been a little easier. Also, narrowing down the numerous events in Italy's 20 regions is about as easy as deciding which Italian cities to visit and which you'll have to save for the next trip.
The majority of the Christmas markets, called Mercatini di Natale, are in the Trentino/Alto-Adige, just south of Austria, but these festivities go on throughout the boot. Typically there are wooden chalets selling Christmas decorations, hand-crafted goods, seasonal food and drinks. The piazze turn into dream villages with lights, Christmas trees, music and merriment. Manger scenes, called presepi, wooden, ceramic and sometimes live versions, are everywhere. Scents of baked Christmas sweets and spiced wine fill the air. That old hag La Befana and even Babbo di Natale (Santa Claus) enchant or scare the children. There are usually rides - even live animals - for the children to enjoy. There can also be rides for the adults. Maybe a romantic horse-drawn carriage or a tiny train, taking you through the medieval village and beyond the ancient walls to nearby parks and castles.
Below is a list of some of the Christmas markets and events throughout Italy along with links to the official sites, when I found one. Many of the sites are only in Italian, with the exception of the multi-lingual South Tyrol. Starting the end of November or early December, the markets continue through Christmas to January 6 (the religious holiday of the Epiphany). Then La Befana, the witch who brings candy to good kids and coal to bad ones, makes an appearance. If you're traveling to Italy around Christmas, these markets have something for everyone.
Piazza Caveri turns into an alpine Christmas village with real Christmas, trees, lights and wooden houses (casette) selling local artigianal products and food.
Mostra Mercato di Natale (Christmas Show Market) - December 5, 12, & 19 - 9am to 8pm in Piazza Chanoux - Over 70 exhibitors will have local hand-crafted gifts for sale
Piedmont
Turin - December 3 to 23 in Piazza Borga Dora and the surrounding area
The piazza also becomes a Christmas village with a huge Christmas tree in the piazza and many exhibitors selling products and food. On Dec. 5, 6,7,8,12,13,19,& 20 there is a free shuttle bus that leaves from the center at Piazza Castello to Piazza Borga Dora. Restaurants in the surrounding area will be offering special Christmas menus.
The Oh Bej, Oh Bej Fair (Milan's dialect for "How beautiful, how beautiful") is a fair to honor the patron saint of Milan, St. Ambrogio. The fair will have over 400 stalls selling Christmas items and food.
Trentino-Alto Adige
Trentino Christmas Markets Site - This is the site for all information on Christmas markets in Arco, Andalo, Levico, Pergine Valsugana, Rango nel Bleggio, Rovereto, and Trento
Arco - November 19 to December 23 in the historic center (centro storico)
Special events at the festival: December 7th is the Festa d' Immacolata and there will be a fireworks display from the castle. December 11 & 12 there will be a showing of an Italian verson of Dicken's A Christmas Carol. They will have a little train (trenino) to take you around the city.You can check here: Complete Arco Christmas Program for all events and times.
Andalo - December 3 to 24 in Piazza Dolomiti
Bolzano (Bozen) - November 26 to December 23 in Piazza Walter
One of the most photographed cities in the Dolomites, Bolzano, sits in the valley surrounded by rolling hills and the Dolomite mountains in the backdrop. At Christmas, Bolzano and the valley may also be carpeted with snow. Along with the traditional market, there will be an artisan one (hand-made crafts) at Piazza Municipio and Notte dei Musei where evening entrance into certain museums will be free.
Bressanone (Brixen) - November 26 to January 6, 2011 in Piazza Duomo
The market takes place in the main cathedral's square. The Cathedral (Duomo) has an 800-year old Gothic cloister. There will be a presepi exhibition at Episcopal Palace.
Bruncio(Bruneck) - November 26 to January 6, 2011 on the Nuovo Piazza Municipio
Another gem situated at the foot of the Dolomites, you can add a ski vacation to your trip. The ski resort Kronplatz is just outside the town.
Levico - November 20 to January 6, 2011in the Parco Alburgico
Along with the traditional Christmas Market, food will be a huge theme of the celebrations with a Polenta Fest (11/28 - 12/8) and a Cheese Fest (12/5-12/12). In the park there will also be a Santa Clause 5K run - Santa suit is required for entry. A fireworks show will be held at 9:30pm on these Saturday evenings: 11/27, 12/4 and 12/11, and there will be horse-drawn carriage rides.
Merano - November 26 to January 6, 2011on the historic spa promenade
The 18th year of the festival in the spa town of Merano, its held along a beautiful riverfront promenade. Check out a huge gallery of previous Merano Christmas Markets photos. The website, with an English option, is full of information and pictures.
Rango nel Bleggio - December 5 to 19
Rovereto - November 27 to January 2, 2011 in Corso Rosmini
Along with local products there will also be Christmas items from North Europe.
One of the more visited and famous of the markets of Trentino, it's also the busiest. The site brags that over 100 pullman buses come to the town each weekend. The piazza is next to the huge medieval wall of the city which adds to the medieval Christmas feel.
Vipiteno(Sterzing) November 26 to January 6, 2011 in Piazza Citta (Stadtplatz)
This medieval mining town, will have a mining exhibition along with the regular Christmas market.
Veneto
Verona - December 4 to January 23, 2011 in Piazza Bra and the Arena
Verona's Arena, the sight for the summer opera festival, is illuminated and houses over 400 nativity scenes. A huge star arches from the Arena out and onto Piazza Bra where the Christmas market and its vendors are. Christmas treats include Pandoro (a sweet Christmas bread) and Nadalin (star Christmas cookies).
Emiglia-Romana
Bologna - There are two festivals that celebrate Christmas. Fiera di Santa Lucia, also a celebration of the saint, is the bigger of the two.
Fiera di Santa Lucia - November 20 to December 26 around Church dei Servi
Fiera di Natale - November 20 to January 6, 2011 on Via Altabella
Liguria
Genoa - December 7 to 19 at La Fiera di Genova - Piazzale Kennedy
Almost any kind of gift you could immagine will be at this Fiera a Natale. There will also be a food and wine section with products from Liguria and lessons on making traditional Christmas food.
Tuscany
Florence:
Florence Noel - December 4 to 12 at Stazione Leopoldo - Entrance = 7,50 euros
The Leopoldo Train Station houses this festival. Along with stalls selling gift items, chocolate and other foods, there will be Santa's house (Casa di Babbo Natale ) where children can meet Santa, write, and post letters to him.
Mercato Tedesco di Natale - December 1 to 19 in Piazza Santa Croce
This will be a traditional Christmas market with wooden houses selling hand-crafted products and food and wine.
The 18th annual festival bills itself as the biggest show market for gastronomy and artigianal products in the region. Its main location is the 16th century fortress, but there will also be food and wine stalls in the historic center and craft stalls in Piazza Italia.
Le Marche
Pesaro - December 4 to 8 in the nearby town of Candelara
An illuminated Christmas Market. At certain moments during the event, the city will be illuminated only with candles. Along with the traditional market and via dei presepi (a manger exhibit), there will also be ice sculptures of manger scenes. There will be free shuttle bus service from Pescaro (several central locations) to the town of Candelara.
Fano - December 1 to 31 in various locations throughout the city
The traditional Christmas market will be in Giardini Amiani. There are many festivities during the month of December. The Tempo di Natale events include a nativity exhibit along via Mura San Gallo, an afternoon market in the centro storico at Piazza XX Settembre, and several concerts.
Vatican City - Along with the presepe display, huge Christmas tree in the piazza, and midnight mass on December 24, there are a number of religious celebrations througout the month of December.
100 Presepi Display - November 26 to January 6, 2011 in Piazza del Popolo - Entrance = 5,50 euros weekdays and 6,50 euros weekends/holidays
Frascati - "Natale a Frascati" will be from December 3 to January 5, 2011 in the town center (centro)
Frascati, one of the towns of the Castelli Romani, will have 40 wooden houses selling products and food, and both Santa Claus and La Befana will make appearances.
Campania
Napoli:
Via San Gregorio Armeno in the historic center
This is "Christmas Lane" all year long, selling the Presepi Napolitano, but in December the street becomes even more festive.
For presepi on exhibit, these churches/monasteries have them:
Pontecagnano - From November 17 to December 19 in the Gardens (Giardini) of Piazza Sabbato
This town near Salerno is kicking off its first "Christmas Market" this year. Modeled after the Christmas markets in the north of Italy and of those in Northern Europe, it will have a Southern Italian feel featuring local products, food and wine.
Sicily
Caltagirone - On weekends from November 6&7 to December 11&12 in Piazza Umberto
A Christmas market with the requisite wooden stalls and presepi but also Sicilian crafts and sweets
The market will have hand-crafted items along with Sardinian food and wine products
How fun it will be to see Christmas festivals throughout Italy, from ones in the snow-covered South Tirol to those surrounded by palm trees in Sicily. The magic, romance, wonderment, SHOPPING, and SWEETS! My plan is to go next year; however, after putting this list together and seeing all the photos and videos, like the one below, I've seriously thought about changing my plans. Should I forego my planned trip in March and make a Christmas trip this December? What do you think?
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Have you been to any of the Christmas markets in Italy? Do you know of a great Christmas market or festival not listed?
Welcome to this week's round up of Italian food from around the web. It's beginning to look a lot like Christmas with Christmas sweets starting to pop up. I know some of you are merry and bright, while others are groaning, "Ughhh, it's way too soon." For those of you groaning, I just wanted to let you know that there are 41, yes 41, days until Christmas. Speaking of Christmas and Italy, please come back Tuesday for a special Christmas in Italy post. If you haven't already noticed, I'm one of those "merry and bright" types.....well, most of the time. Eating Italy has some great posts with mouth-watering pictures of food and of Autumn in Italy. There are also three articles where writers share their culinary vacations in Italy. Finally, I've added a few more upcoming food and wine festivals to the list....one is chocolate in Sicily! Enjoy and Buon Appetito!
My choices for 10 best Italian recipes from around the web:
Some of the Upcoming Food and Wine Festivals in Italy:
ChocoBarocco in Modica - December 3 - 8 - The Sicilian town famous for its chocolate is throwing a chocolate festival - and you can take a chocolate tour on a Vespa (Some information in English on Sicily Guide)
Enologica 2010 - Wine and Food Festival in Faenza - November 19 - 21 - In the Emilia-Romagna city there will be over 120 wine producers from the region - Wine, guided wine tastings, exhibitions, food stalls and a farmers' market
Rome Restaurant Week - November 15 to 21 - Dine in many of Rome's top restaurants for as little as 25 euros a person. Information provided by Italy Magazine
Pig and Wild Boar Festival (Sagre del Maiale e Chingale) - Deceber 4 and 5 in Antillo, a city near Taormina in Sicily
Torrone Festival in Cremona - November 19 - 21 - The candy Northern Italians associate with Christmas, torrone, has its own festival
Festival of Madonna della Salute - November 21 - A yearly festival honoring La Madonna for her help in ending the plague in Venice. There will be food stalls and other "bancarelle" selling goods and Christmas items - Italy Magazine
Cioccolosita (Chocolate Festival in Tuscany) - February 4 - 6, 2011 - The town of Monsummano Terme, near Pistoia, hosts a chocolate festival and brings chocolatiers from all over Italy with samples!
Carnevale di Venezia - February 26 - March 8, 2011 - A magical event that I would recommend attending at least once in your life, the entire city of Venice becomes a stage
My recent trip to Bordeaux made me nostalgic for the first time I was there. It was about 4 years ago when I was living in Paris. Seven of us took a weekend road trip. We spent the weekend driving around the Medoc, visiting wineries, and having a good time. For all but the one French man in the group, it was our first time there, and everything was new to us. We drove by one grand chateau after another, each hovering over its vineyards like proud yet protective parents. We learned about Bordeaux wines through the stories of each wine maker and saw centuries old wine-making estates. It was a magical weekend both because of what we saw and learned and also because of the company.
Glimpse of the Chateau Margaux through its tree-lined entrance
During this trip, I passed the Pavillon de Margaux, both a bed and breakfast and restaurant, and remembered the lunch we had eaten there. Because Chateau Margaux is closed on the weekends, we were unable to visit. Instead, we had lunch at Pavillion de Margaux. From our lunch table, we could look out the window and see the vineyards of Chateau Margaux.
There are two dining areas, one inside of 19th century decor and the other, an enclosed patio. We chose our lunch from one of the "menu" options. In France a "menu" is a meal option, usually some sort of combination of entree, plat (main dish), and dessert for a fixed price. The actual menu (as we call it in the U.S.) is called la carte. (I'm forever forgetting this. I quickly realize my mistake when I see the waiters' annoyed faces after I've asked for le menu.) At the Pavillon de Margaux, this menu option also included an amuse buche and ended with mignardise (little sweets) of chocolates and a coffee. Not exactly your light lunch. Of course, we shared a bottle (or two - there were 7 of us) of Bordeaux wine. As this region is also part of the "land of duck," my main course was a duck dish. I remember being thoroughly stuffed after this meal, but I also remember the dessert. It was an apple tart that was wrapped up in flaky phyllo dough and looked like a little present on the dish. I had never seen a tart made like that in Paris. The crust and apples were two contrasts in textures. The flaky phyllo was crisp and crunchy against the soft, cooked apples.
After a little research, I found that the tart is popular in the southwest of France, especially around the area of Gascony. Originally the dough was a hand-stretched strudel-like one, but now they use phyllo to make the crusty (croustade) top. As apples are again in season, and Thanksgiving (in the U.S.) is just around the corner, I thought I would recreate this dessert. It's a nice twist to the traditional "apple pie" and was quite easy to recreate. The trickiest thing is mastering phyllo dough, but I have a few notes, after the recipe, to help you. For me this apple tart also brings back memories of my first trip to the Bordeaux region and this last one. More detailed information on the chateaux I visited and the city of Bordeaux will be for another post(s). Until then, I'm sharing a few photos from my recent visit to the Medoc along with this recipe. I hope you try it, and if you do, please let me know what you think of it.
Wine tasting room's terrace
Grounds around the wine estate
Gardens of the Chateau Kirwan
Join me in Provence in 2013 for a French Pastry Culinary Vacation and learn how to create these and other classic French pastries! Details here: Pastry-Making Vacation in Provence
Croustade aux Pommes Inspired by Pavillon Margaux and adapted from Ma Cuisine Bordelaise by Myriam Daumal
(Makes 4 individual tarts)
5 Granny Smith apples Scant 1/2 cup vanilla sugar 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon (optional)** 2 tablespoons Armagnac, cognac or brandy
For the crust: About 12 sheets phyllo dough 1/2 cup clarified butter, melted (see below) 2 teaspoons granulated sugar
Peel, core and slice apples 1/4-inch thin. Mix together the sugar and the cinnamon, if you're using the cinnamon. Add to the apples and stir so that sugar is coating each slice. Add the armagnac and let the apples macerate for one hour. Strain the liquid from the apples.
Preheat an oven to 350 F, line a baking sheet with parchment paper and butter the rim of four 4-inch tart ring molds.
To assemble each tart: Brush a sheet of phyllo with some of the melted butter. Slice the sheet in half so you have two squares (or fat rectangles). Place one of the cut sheets into a mold, and place the other on top perpendicular to the first sheet. Repeat this with another sheet and place in the mold in the same manner. You should have 4 layers of phyllo in the mold. Press the pyhllo down and against the buttered sides. Fill the mold with apples 3/4-inch in height. Take another sheet of phyllo dough and brush it with butter. Slice it in half the same way and place one of the cut sheets on top of the apples, and the second sheet of phyllo on top of it. Fill the mold with more apples about 1/2-inch in height. Fold the excess layers up and over the apples. Fold and/or crinkle the excess edges up and on the top of the tart. Brush the top with the melted butter and sprinkle some of granulated sugar on top. Repeat this procedure for the three remaining tarts. Place into the oven and bake for about 30 minutes, until the phyllo crust is a golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool for 5 minutes before removing the mold. (As long as the phyllo hasn't fallen outside of the ring, you can lift the mold up over the tart.) If the mold can not be lifted up to remove, you can remove it by sliding a four-inch piece of cardboard under the tart, lifting the tart and lifting the tart up from the mold. The tart should be served warm. Dust with powdered sugar. It goes perfectly with both caramel sauce and vanilla bean ice cream. Enjoy!
**Note: The French would probably think it sacrilege that I would add even a pinch of cinnamon to this tart, but I like a little cinnamon with my cooked apples. If you want the true Gascon dessert, leave the cinnamon out.
Clarifying Butter:
Melt the butter on low heat just until it bubbles. Skim the bubbles, which are the impurities in the butter. Let it sit and separate. The water and milk solids will sink to the bottom. You can pour off or ladle off the butter fat that has come to the top, and discard the rest. About 3/4 cup of butter will render 1/2 cup of clarified butter. Using clarified butter with phyllo dough, allows you to have crispier layers of dough as there will be no water/moisture added from the butter.
Working with Phyllo Dough:
Many people hate working with phyllo dough, but with practice you won't think twice about using it. There are a few important things to remember. Defrost it in the refrigerator, not on the counter. When working with it, it's important to keep it moist and work as quickly as possible. To keep it moist, I lay a dry paper towel over the top and place a damp dish towel over the paper towel. The moisture from the dish towel will soak the paper towel a little but not too much. Before I open up the phyllo dough, I have my work area all set up. Then, I am able to work as quickly as possible. Once you've defrosted the phyllo dough, you will need to use all of it. You can make these tarts in advance and freeze them, or you can make various appetizers with them. (A few appetizers suggestions coming soon.)
"California just doesn't have a change of seasons." That's what my mom always said when Fall rolled around. She spent her youth in New York City and then Michigan before the family headed to California. What she missed most about the East Coast was the change of seasons. Because she said this only in October, not in February or July, I don't think she really missed all the drastic change of seasons in the East; like below freezing temperatures, winter snow storms, and oppressive summer humidity. She missed that part that brought about the colors of Fall.
The photo above is the Napa Valley in California in October. It looks like the season is changing, doesn't it? Throughout the San Francisco Bay Area there are leaves in various shades of yellow, orange and red. In Napa Valley, not only do the trees change colors but also the vines change to various shades of the same Fall color palate. When I'm not in Italy or France, I live in a suburb between the Napa Valley and San Francisco. In my California-biased opinion, Autumn in the Bay Area is one of the most beautiful places in the United States. Besides the changing leaves, the weather cools down only a bit. We still get a few warm days sprinkled in between the cool ones and the fewer rainy ones.
Here are my 3 signs of fall from the Bay Area in California:
1. Scents of this years' newborn wines fill the air
The Wine Country air is full of scents from grapes being harvested - I take a drive or a weekend up to and through the valleys of Napa and Sonoma. My windows are down, just to smell wine in the air. Scents of crushed grapes and the beginnings of the wine fill the air and my car.
2. Getting excited about lemons
Most people think of pumpkins, squash, mushrooms, braises, and hearty foods, and I do, too. What I'm really getting excited about, though, are lemons. "My" Meyer Lemon tree is in full bloom, and the first crop are always ready in November. Last year we had over 600 lemons from the tree, and it seems there are even more this year. It's actually my aunt's lemon tree, but I'm in charge of using up the lemons. Lemon tarts, a Delizie al Limone, some type of Lemon Buche de Noel, loads of limoncello, and more are coming soon.
3. My down comforter for lazy Sundays
When fall comes, my down "blankie" reappears from its summer retreat in the chest. It keeps me warm on lazy Sundays while I'm watching football and/or movies, and there's usually a pot of mom's meat ragu simmering on the stove. Every year since I was a teenager, someone has snapped a picture of me curled under my blanket on a lazy Sunday. These lazy days are such a treat when the fall months roll around. By winter I get cabin fever. That's when the travel planning starts.
I saw this post on Bleeding Espresso and said, "Hey, I'm a she, who blogs. I want to join in the fun!" This is my entry into the She Who Blogs Three Signs O' Fall & a Photo Contest. There are 4 prizes - each a $25 Amazon gift certificate. If you're a she who blogs, you should enter, too. The deadline is November 13, 2010.
This past week in Italy were the holidays of Ognissanti (All Saints Day - Nov 1st) and Giorno dei Morti (Day of the Dead - Nov 2nd). As usual with Italian holidays, food is a central part of the celebration. Each region has different dishes to commemorate the occasion. I've included 3 different recipes for Day of the Dead food and also something in Eating Italy about how it's celebrated in Sicily. The Eating Italy section has a lot of great food and wine photos and articles - Salone del Gusto and Piedmont, an olive oil harvest from harvest to oil production, an argument against Eataly in Rome, and Italian wines. New events are in the Upcoming Festivals section including a chocolate festivalnext February in Tuscany - fellow chocoholics take note!! Enjoy and Buon Appetito!
My choices for this week's 10 best Italian recipes from around the web:
Eleonora pays tribute to her nonna and makes Ossa dei Morti (bones of the dead) cookies for the Italian celebration of All Souls Day and Day of the Dead - Aglio, Olio & Peperoncino
Jamie Schler makes Pan dei Morti (Bread of the Dead) and gives a little history about how Italy celebrates the November 1st holiday - Huffington Post
Pan co' Santi Bread - A Tuscan version of Day of the Dead bread - Tuscanycious
Stuffed Acorn Squash looks delicious and is a perfect cold-weather comfort food - Proud Italian Cook
Sausage and Peppers - hearty recipe and only 5 steps to make it - Bleeding Espresso
Budino Castagne e Cioccolato (Chocolate and Chestnut Pudding) - Oh, this looks decadent and also simple to make - Tzatziki a Colazione (Scroll down for the English version)
U Juornu re Muorti (Day of the Dead in Sicilian dialect) explains the history and how the holiday is celebrated in Sicily with photos of the Marzipan treats that are part of the celebration - Love Sicily
Stunning photos of the Piedmont region, Turin and the Salone del Gusto slow food festival
Deb reports on her Olive Harvest 2010 with photos of the entire process from harvest to making olive oil - Italian Food Forever
Pasta for Beginners - A short guide to cooking the perfect pasta - for beginners and a refresher for the experienced pasta eaters/cookers - Madonna del Piatto
Italian wine lessons: Overview of the Wines of Campania - My Life Italian
Chestnuts at the market but the sign says "Cushions for a mother-in-law"
Rome Restaurant Week - November 15 to 21 - Dine in many of Rome's top restaurants for as little as 25 euros a person. Information provided by Italy Magazine
Pig and Wild Boar Festival (Sagre del Maiale e Chingale) - Deceber 4 and 5 in Antillo, a city near Taormina in Sicily
Merano Wine Festival - November 5 - 11 - One of the biggest wine festivals in Italy
Torrone Festival in Cremona - November 19 - 21 - The candy Northern Italians associate with Christmas, torrone, has its own festival
Festival of Madonna della Salute - November 21 - A yearly festival honoring La Madonna for her help in ending the plague in Venice. There will be food stalls and other "bancarelle" selling goods and Christmas items - Italy Magazine
Cioccolosita (Chocolate Festival in Tuscany) - February 4 - 6, 2011 - The town of Monsummano Terme, near Pistoia, hosts a chocolate festival and brings chocolatiers from all over Italy with samples!
Carnevale di Venezia - February 26 - March 8, 2011 - A magical event that I would recommend attending at least once in your life, the entire city of Venice becomes a stage
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